Print Page | Close Window

Repack or EZ Lube?

Printed From: R-pod Owners Forum
Category: R-pod Discussion Forums
Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
Forum Discription: Ask maintenance questions, share your podmods (modifications) and helpful tips
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=13546
Printed Date: 30 Apr 2024 at 2:50am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 9.64 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Repack or EZ Lube?
Posted By: podrunner
Subject: Repack or EZ Lube?
Date Posted: 13 May 2020 at 11:26am
I am debating whether I should repack the bearings on my trailer or just get a grease gun and fill with the EZ lube.  It has been a couple of years since I last re packed.  Probably driven 1500 miles in that time.
Yes, I know the manufacturer recommends disassembly and repack every year.  I think based on the amount of miles that I have driven that annual repack is over kill. What say ye?


-------------
2010 R Pod 151
2017 4runner
2006 Honda Metropolitan



Replies:
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 13 May 2020 at 11:38am
I vote Repack, if for no other reason than to inspect the brakes and be sure they’re set up right.

-------------
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: lostagain
Date Posted: 13 May 2020 at 11:55am
+1 to OG.  I also advocate, having learned the hard way, to carry at least one bearing and seal set with the bearing fully greased and ready to go incase you have a bearing failure on the road.  But watch out because Lippert warns that "non-certified" people who mess with your bearings "may void any and and all warranty claims."  

-------------
Never leave footprints behind.
Fred & Maria Kearney
Sonoma 167RB
Our Pod 172
2019 Ford F-150 4x4 2.7 EcoBoost


Posted By: podrunner
Date Posted: 13 May 2020 at 12:05pm
My trailer is 11 years old.  Not too concerned about warranty.  Thanks for the advice.

-------------
2010 R Pod 151
2017 4runner
2006 Honda Metropolitan


Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 13 May 2020 at 3:30pm
Personally.. I would just ez lube.. 1500 miles is not many, the brakes should be fine unless they are out of adjustment, and in fact if they got ate up in that short of time, you should have noticed them running hot. 


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 13 May 2020 at 4:25pm
Originally posted by furpod

the brakes should be fine unless they are out of adjustment, and in fact if they got ate up in that short of time, you should have noticed them running hot. 

I think its more likely with electric trailer brakes that they aren't working properly and are not getting hot, or are working well on one side and not the other. Pulling the drums provides the opportunity to check that. If there is little or uneven brake shoe or drum wear, the magnet wear surfaces are scored, or the actuator arms, pivots, and springs are frozen or corroded then its time to look more closely and see what's up. The crappy insulation displacement connectors are one likely suspect, that would be a good time to change them out for butt connectors and self sealing heat shrink tubing. 

Personally, I don't bother taking the time to clean bearings, just wipe them with a clean rag, inspect, and press fresh grease through them till you see the new grease oozing out, put them back in the drum, install a new seal and done.  Doesn't take near as long or make as much mess that way. I don't really see what completely cleaning them does for you other than maybe leaving some solvent in the bearings. 


-------------
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: GlueGuy
Date Posted: 13 May 2020 at 7:36pm
Originally posted by offgrid

The crappy insulation displacement connectors are one likely suspect, that would be a good time to change them out for butt connectors and self sealing heat shrink tubing.

Ours has crimped connectors all around underneath. Maybe the displacement connectors is an eastern thing?


-------------
bp
2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River
2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost


Posted By: Kup-Pod
Date Posted: 13 May 2020 at 8:07pm
My unfortunate experience with the crappy electrical connectors is that they made the connection and then left the wires and connectors hanging for any stray branch to grab and rip the wires apart.
It took a bit to figure out why my brakes were grabbing to one side only to find out that the wire got pulled out, and then sprung back to be "close" to the same location.
A wee bit frustrating to see how they just left it hanging there unprotected and unsecured.


-------------
2017 RP-178
2021 F150 5.0l
"Lead me on a level path"


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 14 May 2020 at 6:28am
Originally posted by GlueGuy

 

Ours has crimped connectors all around underneath. Maybe the displacement connectors is an eastern thing?

Could be, or maybe FR at some point decided to switch to using real connectors? Embarrassed


-------------
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: GlueGuy
Date Posted: 14 May 2020 at 8:42am
Originally posted by offgrid

Originally posted by GlueGuy

 

Ours has crimped connectors all around underneath. Maybe the displacement connectors is an eastern thing?

Could be, or maybe FR at some point decided to switch to using real connectors? Embarrassed

That's a possibility. Ours is a 2017 (late 2016 manufacture), so we have at least a year newer version.


-------------
bp
2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River
2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost


Posted By: podrunner
Date Posted: 14 May 2020 at 10:54am
All this discussion about brakes and connections has inspired me to repack, but more importantly check the brakes and wiring connections. Thank you all for your input



-------------
2010 R Pod 151
2017 4runner
2006 Honda Metropolitan


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 14 May 2020 at 5:18pm
If your engine or trans quits or a bearing overheats you might get stuck on the side of the road. If your brakes or tires fail you can die, so for me brakes and tires come first. I've experienced a couple of brake failures and a really bad brake imbalance before so I guess I'm probably a bit paranoid about it. 

If you've never pulled the trailer wheels and inspected the brakes its a great learning experience, something I think everyone should do at least once. Let's face it, electric drum trailer brakes are 1950s technology, its good to know firsthand how crude they really are compared to modern computer controlled hydraulic disks. 

 Once you get your brakes set up and working as they should and your brake controller is set up the way you want it, here's a nice easy procedure you can do when you head out on a trip to verify things. 

Get an IR thermometer with a laser sight. Check the temp of the drums. They should be at ambient temp. Get up to about 30-40 mph on a flat empty stretch of road. Using only the manual slide on the brake controller, bring your rig down to a few mph. Do this 3-4 times, waiting a minute or two in between, then pull off the road. Check the drums again. They should both be pretty warm but not smoking hot and be roughly the same temp. If one is cold or one is much hotter than the other then start troubleshooting. 

If you do this first with known good brakes and have a baseline and things haven't changed then you can probably get by with just EZ lube for awhile. You can also use the ir thermometer on the hubs and tires to see if your bearings or tires are getting hot. And you can use it for your TV brakes and tires too.  I keep mine in my center console and do this at every gas stop, doesn't take but a few seconds. 


-------------
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold



Print Page | Close Window

Bulletin Board Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 9.64 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Copyright ©2001-2009 Web Wiz - http://www.webwizguide.com