182G New A/C Install
Printed From: R-pod Owners Forum
Category: R-pod Discussion Forums
Forum Name: I need HELP!!!
Forum Discription: Perplexed/need help with a problem - ask here
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=13557
Printed Date: 24 Apr 2024 at 3:35pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 9.64 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 182G New A/C Install
Posted By: TimK182G
Subject: 182G New A/C Install
Date Posted: 18 May 2020 at 10:41am
|
Question on the Dometic 13500 btu a/c. We bought an R-Pod without an
A/C installed and want to purchase a new one. I am planning on installing it
myself in the roof vent, it looks pretty straight forward and I have
basic electrical knowledge. I have a couple questions. Is the low
profile unit worth the additional cost? Do I have to purchase anything
besides the unit itself or is it a complete package? Our old trailer
had the a/c installed so this is a first for me. I noticed you can add
on things when you go to checkout online. Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you!
------------- 2018 R-Pod 182G 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 |
Replies:
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 18 May 2020 at 11:26am
|
I would suggest getting a 9000 btu unit rather than the 13.5K. Unless you're going to camp in the southwest desert in the summer 9000 is going to be fine and maybe a little quieter (ie, sounds like a prop plane taking off not a bizjet). I'm assuming you have a roof vent in the center of the trailer (not the one in the bathroom) already. Those are a standard size so the a/c should be a direct replacement fit. Take a look in your breaker panel. You will need a breaker for the a/c, If that's not already there its an easy install. You will also need a cable to the roof, a 120 Vac cable, not the 12V cable for a vent fan. Not sure if that is prewired already or not, but if not, the cable will be a bit of an issue to install, you'll probably have to run surface mount wiring. So you might want to pull off the vent and see. ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: TimK182G
Date Posted: 18 May 2020 at 12:44pm
|
Thank you for the detailed response. We do have the center roof vent in the main living area. I'll double check on all of the wiring. We do have a circuit already in there installed for the A/C on the main panel that is currently unused in the off position. Good point on the 9K vs. 13.5K BTU units. I'll take a look at the price differences on each of the units to see what makes sense but 9K is more than enoungh for us, we're mostly in the northeast for our camping. I am definitely going with the low profile, anything with less drag when moving is a win for mpg's even if it very small. ------------- 2018 R-Pod 182G 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 19 May 2020 at 5:28am
|
Sounds like you are on a good track. If you were closer to southwest VA I'd consider swapping with you. I want to go out on a limb and replace my a/c with a roof vent and try a 9000 btu mini split air conditioner with the condenser mounted on the tongue and the evaporator on the wall above the head of the bed in my 179. Much quieter and much much more efficient but not knowing how it would all go together I can't recommend you try it. Please post what you decide to do and how the install went in the mods section for the next guy. One thing to consider is how you are going to safely get the a/c unit up there, they are heavy, about 100 lbs. Not a carry up the ladder kinda thing, more of a shade tree block and tackle thing... ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: TimK182G
Date Posted: 19 May 2020 at 8:22am
|
Thank you! I'm looking at alternatives to the roof mounted unit as well. Your idea of a mini- split is very fascinating. After reading other posts, losing the light and air flow from the current free skylight in the center of our roof has me a bit hesitant to block it up with an A/C roof unit. I like the idea of being able to open up that window to let hot air vent out naturally and it also lets a ton of light in right now. I haven't found any small portable units that make any sense at this point. Putting a mini split or regular window A/C unit above the bed would be a great option but I'd be terrified to do that myself. Cutting into the frame does not seems like something I would ever be comfortable doing. Going to keep researching for now, campgrounds are still closed here for at least 3 more weeks here so we won't be going anywhere soon. ------------- 2018 R-Pod 182G 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 19 May 2020 at 8:57am
|
No need to cut into the frame with a mini split other than a 3 or so inch hole for the refrigerant tubing. The interior evaporator unit hangs on the wall. It only weighs about 20 lbs so screwing a aluminum plate into the wall framing (which is 1x1 aluminum tubing) and then attaching the evaporator to the plate should work. The condenser can mount on the tongue where the batteries are. On my 179 I would have to move my propane tank forward slightly and bolt or weld on brackets to mount the condenser on. I would need a cover for the condenser to avoid damage from road debris while towing. The batteries would need to be relocated to the interior of the trailer, I would change them for lithium ones at that point. Then I would need to route the two refrigerant lines, a condensate drip line, and a power line from the condenser to the evaporator. All that is bundled together in about a 3 inch diameter circle, which would be routed out at the front bottom of the trailer. The units some precharged so in theory you don't need am a/c tech to pull a vacuum on the lines when installing. They make a cover for the tubing which would be visible inside the trailer until it dived through the corner of the bed into the area where the water heater is under the mattress. But its definitely not for the faint of heart, its a major mod with a lot of little things to sort out or it could go wrong. The payoff is the top of the trailer is clear, the a/c is whisper quiet inside and out, energy usage is cut in half, and its a heat pump as well. I plan on covering the top of the trailer with solar modules, leaving a couple of inches of air space for cooling and the vents underneath. ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: GlueGuy
Date Posted: 19 May 2020 at 10:08am
|
Someone could make a killing by making a mini split where the condenser could be mounted on the roof, and the evaporator could be ceiling mounted directly underneath. ------------- bp 2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River 2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 19 May 2020 at 10:29am
|
They make flush mounted cassette evaporators for installation in ceiling cavities that you would need to build a cover for where it came up through the roof, they're about 10 inches tall but much smaller than a roof a/c. But the condensers are all for ground or wall mounting. Some folks have mounted them on the rear bumper. The refrigerant lines would have to lead up the outside wall which might be pretty funky. Placing the condenser above the evaporator creates some problems with oil migration that have to be worked out. ' ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: podwerkz
Date Posted: 19 May 2020 at 11:34am
I can see doing all of that on a brand new trailer ordered with no roof A/C installed, but on yours, being a 2015 model, and presumably about halfway thru it's expected service life...man I'm just not seeing the payback...ROI, in other words is not there. Or so it seems to me. Save all that work for the next new one you own!
------------- r･pod 171 gone but not forgotten! |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 19 May 2020 at 12:12pm
I kinda feel the opposite, I wouldn't want to take the risk of buggering up a new trailer . And I haven't bought a new vehicle or trailer in - uh, well, I can't remember that far back. Besides, I'm a cheap old guy, I keep my stuff pretty much forever, as long as its still working anyhow. ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: Olddawgsrule
Date Posted: 19 May 2020 at 4:56pm
|
I get what OG's sayin'.. I also don't wish to bugger too deep in somethin' new. If you like what you have as a base to work up from, then why not? What really is the limit? ------------- https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJduGeZNFgtptH67leItRFQ - Byways no Highways 2017 Tacoma http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=72408 - Truck Camper Build 2004 F150 My Overlander |
Posted By: TimK182G
Date Posted: 20 May 2020 at 4:25pm
|
If I do go the the roof mounted route I'm going with Coleman 9K BTU low profile. Found the top and non ducted underpiece for under $700 total plus shipping. My R-pod is prewired up to the skylight with it's own dedicated 20 amp circuit, so connection should be simple. Still debating as to trying a small portable and venting the drain pipe outside through the window above the kitchen sink. Anybody trie this and have any suggestions for a portable? Preferably something not to large, I think 5,000 BTUs would be more than enough, my rig is only about 85 sq feet from front to back. ------------- 2018 R-Pod 182G 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 20 May 2020 at 4:39pm
|
With a portable you need to vent the hot air from the condenser out, not just the condensate water from the evaporator. That makes them inefficient because most of them have only one vent so have to bring in hot outside air to make up for that exhaust air. Plus it will always be getting in the way. As to btu requirements, on a 90 to 95-ish degree high humidity day in NC I was getting about a 50% duty cycle on the 13.5K unit, so about 7K BTU/hr heat load. Its a small space but has a lot of poorly insulated wall, ceiling, and window surfaces. You need some additional capacity to pull down the temp in a reasonable amount of time when you get to camp so that's why I think that a 9K will be OK. But 5K just wouldn't cut it even if all that 5K BTU/hr was going for cooling the interior and not wasted cooling down the exhaust make up air. I'd go with the roof mount.
------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: crw8sr
Date Posted: 20 May 2020 at 5:31pm
|
Ours factory installed A/C is so noisy we rarely use it. I'm always on the look out for something better. ------------- Chuck & Lyn Izzy, Morkie. RIP Zoe Joy & Gracie, Yorkie 2018 R Pod 190 2019 Traverse In moments of adversity;when life's a total wreck, I think of those worse off than me and really feel like heck. |
Posted By: TimK182G
Date Posted: 22 May 2020 at 9:19am
|
Think I’ll go with the roof mount. Thanks off grid for all of the input. One other question, is the low profile unit worth the additional cost? ------------- 2018 R-Pod 182G 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 22 May 2020 at 10:15am
|
I don't know if it is or not. Its not really going to produce noticeably less air drag so if it has the same btu rating its going to be a matter of noise level and aesthetics. The standard 13.5K units are almost unbelievably noisy so it might be worth doing some checking on noise levels and basing your decision on that. ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: TimK182G
Date Posted: 22 May 2020 at 12:52pm
|
Thanks again. I think I am going with the regular profile unit. I've read quite a few places that the compressor on the low profile tends to be louder. Could be purely anecdotal but the costs are much less and as you said the drag of a regular profile vs. a low profile when on the move is negligible.
------------- 2018 R-Pod 182G 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 22 May 2020 at 1:21pm
|
Cheaper always gets my vote too unless there is a compelling reason to spend more hard earned $$$. ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 22 May 2020 at 6:16pm
|
The compressor is not the loud part. What is loud is the air flow. The height of the unit won't affect that. There are a few things that can be done. 1. Close the big center vent. That is probably the biggest thing that will help with the sound level. 2. Remove the inside shroud. Use thin, closed-cell foam and glue it to the inside of the shroud, avoiding all sliding/moving parts. This helps too. 3. At night, run the AC with the fan set to Low instead of Auto. The constant fan sound is better for sleeping than the on/off cycling of the fan plus the pauses and shifts between high and low speeds. The problem is not the unit. It is actually pretty quiet. Go outside and listen and I guarantee you that the Dometic Penguin II will be quieter than some of the units used on the big rigs. The problem on the inside is the limited space and no ducting. Ducting would go a long way to making it quiet, but there is likely no good way to run duct work. I don't know of any unit of equivalent size that would be any quieter. A 9,000 BTU unit likely would be quieter, but by how much I could not say. ------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 22 May 2020 at 7:14pm
|
A 9000 btu minisplit is whisper quiet inside and out and has no ductwork. So it is very possible. The problem is that RV owners and manufacturers have not insisted on improvement from Dometic and the other roof a/c manufacturers. ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: TimK182G
Date Posted: 27 May 2020 at 12:24pm
|
I ended up getting the Coleman regular profile 13500 BTU roof mount. It was cheaper than the 9K BTU low profile unit so I figured I'd get the bigger one. Just have to order the gasket seal now. ------------- 2018 R-Pod 182G 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 27 May 2020 at 5:15pm
|
Sounds like you have it well in hand, just be sure to have a safe back saving plan for getting that big heavy thang up on top of the trailer! Shade tree and a block and tackle should work. ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: TimK182G
Date Posted: 28 May 2020 at 9:39am
|
^^^^^ Thank you! That will be the next challenge when the unit is shipped here 
------------- 2018 R-Pod 182G 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 |
Posted By: TimK182G
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2020 at 3:00pm
|
Quick question on the electrical hookup. Anybody installed a Colman-Mach A/C in their R Pod themselves? I have it installed and in place but I have a question on wiring. R Pod is prewired with Black (hot), White (neutral) and bare copper (ground). The A/C comes wired with white, black and green wires along with a bare copper wire. I know white goes with white and black goes with black but do I wire the existing bare copper wire to the bare copper wire on the A/C unit or does it get connected to the green wire? From what I have read, you should wire bare to bare for the ground current if that's how the wiring is set up. So does that mean I leave the green wire unconnected and capped? I just want to make sure I am connecting everything properly. ------------- 2018 R-Pod 182G 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 15 Jun 2020 at 4:33pm
|
Hmmm. The bare copper wire in the supply cable should go to the green pigtail of the a/c. The bare copper wire in the a/c might be there to provide a frame ground to the RV. Can you tell what it’s connected to? Any mention of it in the install manual? ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: TimK182G
Date Posted: 17 Jun 2020 at 3:17pm
|
The install manual is very vague. I’ll take some pics and post them. ------------- 2018 R-Pod 182G 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 17 Jun 2020 at 4:30pm
|
See if you can trace where in the a/c the bare copper pigtail goes. I suspect it goes to metal, in which case you can attach it to the rpod frame and you'll be good to go. ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: TimK182G
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2020 at 7:49am
 I read through the manual and finally did find the detailed wiring section. It was as you said. Black to black, white to white and bare copper to green as you said offgrid. Where on the frame should I attach that bare copper wire?
------------- 2018 R-Pod 182G 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2020 at 9:21am
|
If the manual doesnt have a suggestion I think anywhere to metal that wont cause clearance problems would be ok. You could use a ring terminal to help with the clearance. ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: TimK182G
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2020 at 10:12am
|
Thanks offgrid. Sorry about that picture. It didn’t resize ------------- 2018 R-Pod 182G 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2020 at 1:16pm
|
Whoa there a sec. I just now got back on my PC and was able to navigate the photo. Hard to get my bearings in the photo but I think what you're calling a bare copper wire is really the temp probe for the thermostat. Do not cut, bend, or damage it. Does it seem like it might be a tube? trace it back ans see where its coming from. ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: Olddawgsrule
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2020 at 7:05am
Is this the copper wire you are talking about?  ------------- https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJduGeZNFgtptH67leItRFQ - Byways no Highways 2017 Tacoma http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=72408 - Truck Camper Build 2004 F150 My Overlander |
Posted By: TimK182G
Date Posted: 23 Jun 2020 at 7:59am
|
You guys could both be right. It isn't a hollow tube, it is a copper wire, I did end up attaching the "wire" to a screw on the frame. If it is some sort of temperature probe, I don't know how it would apply to my system. It's ductless direct below the unit and the selector controls are directly controlling the unit (one selector going from warm to cool the other fan speeds and A/C speeds). I did a test run with the A/C and it cooled the trailer off in a half hour in the middle of the day so I'm happy. I managed to run it on low cool without tripping my 15 amp house breaker that it was plugged so all of the wiring seems to be good. ------------- 2018 R-Pod 182G 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 |
Posted By: TimK182G
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2020 at 4:05pm
|
So what do you do with the coil sensor? I forgot to ask and can’t find instructions in the manual. ------------- 2018 R-Pod 182G 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 |