I am getting my RPOD 190 delivered most likely in late June and wanted to know everything needed in order to hookup water / electric from the house.

    I understand that I should get a Water regulator for connecting to city water?

    I also read that I should also have a surge protector as part of the electrical connection regardless of where we are camping.

    We opted for a 100 watt solar factory installed with an additional battery so we will have 2 batteries wired together.

    So my question regarding electrical to the house is what do I need my electrical to install for an outside outlet (off what size breaker) to connect my RPOD 190 so I can fully utilize anything in the RPOD when on house power?

   Since this is our first camper not sure what the RPOD comes with for a cable and the requirements to run the ac/heat, and convection etc... in the camper to the house properly.

   Would appreciate feedback for a seasoned tent camper but NEW RPOD camper!

Thanks in advance!

Hello Andy,

The RPod will come with a power cord approximately 20'. One end will screw into the pod and the other end is a 3 prong 30 amp male plug.  In order to plug into a standard 12-20 amp home receptacle, you will need a 30 amp to 15 amp reducer similar to this

https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Cable-095449008-Adapter-Extension/dp/B00ARZZ2VA/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=30+to+15+amp+reducer&qid=1591803886&sr=8-1

In order to fully utilize the home power for all R Pod uses(A/C and M/W), you will probably need to have a 30 amp circuit and receptacle installed.  Some units have been able to use either the A/C or the m/w with a standard home 15-20 receptacle, but you cannot count on that-try it and see.

Certainly a surge protector will help protect the electrical system in the pod.  There are lots of choices with lots of price ranges on this item.  Research this before you purchase anything.  They range from simple surge protectors to very complete systems for power management and voltage regulation.

As to water-you will need a drinking water quality hose, a pressure reduction valve and most people use some type of canister filter.

Look back on this forum-it has a lot of great information from a  group of seasoned owners. almost every imaginable topic has been covered.

 Read and learn , but mostly enjoy your new pod

Vann

Welcome and congratulations! I hope you have many fun adventures and make many great memories with your RPod.

First off, you do need a pressure limiter when connected to city water to keep the pressure to about 50 psi or lower. Some water supplies can get up to 100 psi which would be way too much. Consider it insurance against blowing out water line connections or bursting water lines.

Surge protectors are a good idea. If you are confident of the shore power connection, it may be somewhat optional. But it is better to be safe than sorry. I have encountered at least one shore power pedestal that was bad, so a surge protector with the ability to display the status of the connections (lights as a minimum to indicate proper connections and ground) is a very good idea. You can spend more and get one that will boost the voltage if the particular park is experiencing a brownout from the load. Surge protection only is relatively inexpensive. More functions equal more cost. How much you spend depends on how much additional functionality above simple surge protection you desire.

Are the two batteries the same? Are they both Pb-Acid or is one of them different such as LiFePO4? If the same chemistry, are they the same voltage? Are they 6V or 12V? If 12V, they need to be wired in parallel to maintain 12V supply. If 6V, then they need to be wired in series to deliver 12V.

If you have an electrician install an outlet, make double sure that a 30A RV 110V outlet is installed. Verify that he/she does not install a 220V appliance outlet. Other than that, your RPod will come with the proper cable. You may need an extension though depending on how close to the location where you park your RPod the outlet will be installed. When I installed my 30A RV outlet, I installed it next to the main breaker box and I needed to get an extension cable to be able to reach my driveway. I can run anything in the RPod with it.

I hope this is helpful.

I will have to check to see if the batteries are wired in parallel or series. They should both be the same voltage I am assuming they are both 12v.

We installed a 100w solar panel at my sons Yurt we built in VT and have 2 deep cycle marine batteries in that setup and it works great!

I will have my electrician put in the 30A RV 110V outside outlet so that I have the ability to run everything in the RPOD just like we were at a campground and will look into surge protectors which I assume go between RPOD and cable? Or between Cable to house and outlet?

Thanks again

Andy

I have one of these.  Highly recommended.  Saved my R-Pod's butt at a KOA...bad pedestal.

https://hughesautoformers.com/product/30-amp-3600-watt-booster-with-surge/ - https://hughesautoformers.com/product/30-amp-3600-watt-booster-with-surge/

The Hughes Autoformer mentioned above is what I have. I also have a Camco surge protector that I use at home. I used to use it while camping, but liked the idea of the Autoformer, so that travels with us. Both serve the basic function, but I wanted the boost function.

Can you get away with the $100 price range? Probably. It will give you basic surge protection. As you go up in price, you get circuit analyzer functions to let you know the power is good. Keep going up and you get auto cut-off if the power goes outside acceptable parameters. Then comes monitoring functions, some by app and bluetooth. Boost is at the higher end of the scale. Check out the different options on the Huges Autoformers site for what the various ones will do. You can purchase other brands, but the site will give you a good idea of what you are looking at with the various brands/models.

I installed a 30 amp outlet at my shop to power the pod. this is the outlet/box combination that I used- it was the best one i could find for the $$$-works great.

Vann

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Connecticut-Electric-30-Amp-RV-Power-Outlet-CESMPS13HR/100669968

Your two batteries can either be two 6V deep cycle golf cart batteries in series or 2 12V in parallel. The series configuration is preferable so if your dealer hasn't installed them yet you should request that. Either way, the two batteries should be in all respects identical  (brand, voltage, type, capacity, age). Do not let the dealer mix and match.

My Autoformer warned me of a pedestal problem (bad ground) before I ever hooked up the Pod to shore power, so we moved sites.  Does the EMS surge protector do something similar?  I really don't know...

https://www.campingworld.com/30-amp-hughes-autoformer-power-watchdog-bluetooth-portable-surge-protector-117409.html?cgid=surge-protection#start=4&cgid=outside-rv%2Fpower-protection%2Fsurge-protection - https://www.campingworld.com/30-amp-hughes-autoformer-power-watchdog-bluetooth-portable-surge-protector-117409.html?cgid=surge-protection#start=4&cgid=outside-rv%2Fpower-protection%2Fsurge-protection

At a price of $209 seems like a good balance.

Since my electrician is coming tomorrow, what do I need to account for since the distance from our power line from the Rpod and outlet may be about 40'?

I assume you mean the distance from your electrical panel to the rPod outlet. 40 ft is nothing, you'll be fine, 2% voltage drop at the full 30A using 10 gauge wire which is the minimum wire size required. Your electrician does this for a living. no worries. 

   Since we still dont have ours yet, I am guessing that like the fridge it should be able to be run on LP. You will need to verify that. I also dont know your answer to your question but I have also heard that you can use that adapter to plug into 110 outlet I just dont know the restrictions.

Still learning! 

Interesting unit.  Don't recall it being available when I bought my autoformer.

I do see that my 30-amp autoformer will start boosting if the voltage drops below 114V, whereas this unit will cut your power if the voltage drops below 104V.  My question for the electrical experts is: What are the consequences of running your RV appliances for hours at, say, 108V, which the "watchdog" apparently would allow?

If it is a 20A outlet, you will not have a problem running the AC. However, running both AC and refrigerator at the same time on AC might be a problem. If it is a 15A outlet, it is likely that if there is anything else on the circuit, you won't be able to run the AC. It may start, but it will likely eventually trip the breaker. That is my experience. Besides, when you plug it in, the converter will be trying to charge your battery. That in itself will rule out running the AC until it reaches float mode. As for the refrigerator, if it has the capability to run on LP, that would be best if you can get the RPod close to level while you are loading it. It will take about 24 hours to cool down. The rule is to pre-chill things that you want to put in there. Don't expect it to be able to cool a load of warm items very well..

Jaymed, I hope you disconnected the battery or have a cut-off switch. You might get there and find you have a dead battery if you didn't. There are some items such as the LP/CO detector which can't be disconnected and which are a constant power drain. Add to this that Pb-Acid batteries self-discharge and a dead battery is likely unless you have periodically checked and charged it.

The formal spec for residential line voltage in the us is 120Vac +-5% so 114 to 126Vac. That's I'm sure why the Hughes autotransformer cuts in at 114. Can't argue with that. But in reality the loads in your trailer (or your house) aren't that sensitive to voltage variation. They would be damaged much more frequently than they are, its not like utility line voltage is always within spec. The only load in the trailer that won't like really low voltage is the air conditioner. And 108 isn't that low. I'd be more concerned about high voltage (which can happen with an open neutral at the panel or utility transformer) cooking the converter. 

    Looks like I should be getting my new 190 in the next few weeks. I am at a disadvantage as buying this through a wholesaler in Ohio who I am paying to tow out to New Hampshire. So wont be getting any in person demo of how everything works.

   Since I have factory solar with 2 - 12 V deep cycle batteries in Parallel which I will request, I am wondering what position the switches in the camper need to be since I will be leaving this plugged into my 30amp outside power outlet? Will both the solar and house/wired power be charging the batteries or is there some switch that I need to turn off?

  Also where is the switch for the refridg to put it on battery, LP or wired electrical? I assume that is the only appliance that can run on LP? So when driving/towing does it just runs on battery that is constantly being charged by tow vehicle?

  Also I assume I need to put some tablets in the black water tank initially? Would this be done following every time you pump the black water tank out?

   What about the fresh water 36 gallon tank? Does it need any chlorine tablet?

     I see people are using water filters for drinking and some folks just bringing gallon water separately for drinking. Does the filter go between the city water/hose line and the camper or somewhere under the kitchen sink? 

Thanks in advance 

You don't need chlorine tablets. You can use standard household bleach (make sure it is just bleach, not bleach with detergents for cleaning) to sanitize the tank. You can find sufficient information in a search for the process of sanitizing as well as winterizing and de-winterizing.

I can't help you with factory solar as we don't have that except for the connector in our 2016 RP179.

The refrigerator switch should be on the refrigerator's control panel.

I use a biological agent such as TankTech's RX, Unique Products RV Digest-It, Happy Camper, etc. in the black tank. Avoid any product that contains formaldehyde. Some only mask the odor. The biological ones help break things down. They do need to be added every time the tank is emptied along with some water. The additive package will give you instructions.

We use a Camco Taste-Pure filter when we fill our tank and when we connect to city water. I have an elbow that screws on to the filter's outlet and then into the fitting on the RPod for city water or to a filler tube for filling the tank. That way, it filters the water going through the hose as well. Don't forget about a pressure limiter to keep the pressure to 50-55 psi or below. That will keep your water lines from getting damaged by excess pressure.

You actually will have a 30 gallon fresh water tank. The six extra gallons are the capacity of the water heater. Before you turn that on, make sure you find the isolation valves and turn them so that the tank can fill. Verify by going outside and opening the cover and then use the pressure relief valve to ensure water comes out and not just air. Unfortunately, you will not be getting this demonstrated at a walk-through so you will need to research it to find wher ethey are or have a knowledgeable local friend help you while you learn how to use your RPod.

Now for Leveling. I bought pads for the jacks. I know that leveling is required for the fridge to work correctly. 

How does this product stand up to the task or is there a better choice that folks use when not at a level camp site?   https://www.walmart.com/ip/Andersen-Manufacturing-Camper-Leveler-3604/136232245?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&&adid=22222222227052461104&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=152936878305&wl4=pla-262694364147&wl5=1021839&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=136232245&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_4jdu7iN6gIVTOG1Ch0w9QS4EAQYBCABEgLTF_D_BwE - https://www.walmart.com/ip/Andersen-Manufacturing-Camper-Leveler-3604/136232245?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&&adid=22222222227052461104&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=152936878305&wl4=pla-262694364147&wl5=1021839&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=136232245&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_4jdu7iN6gIVTOG1Ch0w9QS4EAQYBCABEgLTF_D_BwE

Also would you recommend a carpenters level inside the rpod on the floor when leveling side to side and front to back?

The level stays in my silverware drawer where I can toss it on the floor by the door when setting up. If I get withing a half bubble I call it good. One trick if you have one of the three support points on softer soil is to start with that point half a bubble high so when it settles (and it will) you end up about right. 

Do not use the stabilizing jacks for any leveling work at all. They and the trailer frame are not designed to carry any load. Once I have things where I want them using the legos then I crank the stabilizers down until they make contact, no further. 

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-25573-Bullseye-Level/dp/B000EDSSDY/ref=asc_df_B000EDSSDY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312098740701&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7041771851441977290&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9008704&hvtargid=pla-434881294974&psc=1 - http://www.amazon.com/Camco-25573-Bullseye-Level/dp/B000EDSSDY/ref=asc_df_B000EDSSDY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312098740701&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7041771851441977290&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9008704&hvtargid=pla-434881294974&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Leveling-Hydraulic-Frustration-Free-Packaging/dp/B072VSBLH7 - https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Leveling-Hydraulic-Frustration-Free-Packaging/dp/B072VSBLH7

I bought one of these and it is good to get the RPod relatively level. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Hopkins-Towing-Solutions-Rv-Smart-Level/155350945 - Hopkins Smart-Level I still use a small torpedo level inside to verify though. I did not want to put screws through the side of the RPod, so I have mine attached with double-sided tape. Since it does not sit fully tight to the wall, it does have a bit of wiggle room so that is why I verify. The lights are great as I can see in my rear-view mirror when the RPod is level side-to-side. Then I can unhitch and do the front-to-rear leveling. If you go to the site linked, mine is the first review in the list.

When our 195 with factory solar is being staged in the driveway and hooked up to house power I don't touch a thing...don't even know if the solar charging can be turned off.  Never an issue...battery usually shows "Full" in short order if it wasn't already from sitting in storage in the sunny Denver area and charging away.  IMO that's one of the nicest things about having the solar...never have to worry about the battery discharging from parasitic draws or having to disconnect it.

Hopefully the new RPOD 190 comes with an owners manual!

All of you are my owners manual now....

Thanks

Andy

Don't hold your breath. Besides, where would be the fun in that? 

Turns out they are Castle Rock ST225/75/R15 Load Rating 'D'. They have a speed rating of 'L' 75 mph.

They also have a Max Load Single of 2540 lbs  / dual of 2200 lbs.

The dry weight on the new 190 is 3030 lbs.

These are made in China but should I swap these out with other 'D' rated tires or do you think these will be sufficient and safe?

Listed as an 8 ply tire with 2 plies of Nylon in side wall.

Also 5 bolt pattern.

Thoughts?

I'm pleasantly surprised that FR is putting 15 load range D tires on the trailer. They didn't do that in the past. The tires that came with mine were 14 inch LRC's rated at 1750, same as the axle. 2540 lbs gives you a nice 45% safety factor over the axle rating. That is the rating of the tires and wheels  I upgraded to. I wouldn't change them, they should be fine. 

If I were to upgrade something next it would be to add axle reinforcement to try to get the axle capacity up closer to what your tire rating is. There have been quite a few instances of bent axles reported on rpods due to the upward force on the axle ends because of the inboard location of the axle to frame attachments.  There are a couple different options to do that and posts on it here. The simplest way is to use square u bolts to attach a 2x2x3/16 steel angle to the bottom of the axle. The steel angle needs to be bent slightly upwards in the center. I did this mod to my 179, only cost about $100. 

Thanks again! Cant believe I dodged a set of tires/rims!

Andy