Congratulations on your purchase-sounds like part of a long term plan.

I have owned 3 tractors and give a little bit of personal advice based on my usage-which is different from what you may need.

It sounds like you need a 4 wheel drive tractor for the steepness you describe.  There are lots of manufacturers that offer these in the 30-40hp range. Most have dual range transmissions (hi and low) with 3-5 gears in each range.  So, low gearing is almost always available. A tractor this size should do everything you listed. Whether you can find a good used one is always a question.

Some tractors have 2speed PTO’s-engine speed and ground speed. This is desirable over a single speed PTO. Also, being able to reverse the PTO is essential if you use an auger. Otherwise, the auger can only go down and not up.  I once screwed my tractor into the ground with the front wheels about 2’ off the ground. What a fiasco!! Make sure the auger and/or tractor can reverse the action before you start digging holes.

I use a 5’ scraper blade that has multiple adjustments to grade our long gravel drive.  It can slide left to right  about 2’, can be adjusted up or down on each end and can change the vertical angle to scrape or cut.  It is more versatile and lighter than a box blade.

I use a boom pole for moving logs before I cut them to length.  I also have an independent hydraulic log splitter.  I think this is easier to work with than hooking one onto the tractor.  Having it independent allows you to use the tractor, move logs, etc while the splitter is still in the wood lot.  Hooking up the splitter to the tractor requires more time, effort and the tractor must have rear hydraulic connections and a pump.

I don’t know anything about tilling or plowing-good luck with that.

I use a bush hog that is about 1’ wider than the rear tire width. Anything larger gets bulky and cumbersome.

Don’t know anything about front end loaders except they require more hydraulics.  A friend has one and his wife has horses.  He uses the front end loader to move manure and hay bales.

Older tractors are relatively easy for routine maintenance . Newer tractors have a lot of advantages, but are more complex in the wiring and hydraulics and will cost more $$$. I have owned my 1963 Massey Ferguson 35 for over 30 years and it has served me well. I have done all of the maintenance, rebuilt the carb and fuel systems, repainted it and kept it stored in my barn.  These old tractors are pretty much bullet proof if you take care of them and do the maintenance.  However, I also know people with newer Kubota and John Deere’s that love them and depend on them.  Sometimes the decision comes down to what’s locally available at the time.

Good luck with your search and your new adventure

Vann

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Seems like, as always, there are too many choices and options and it’s hard to actually compare them because they are so divergent.

I may be repeating myself from the earlier posts-but here is what I think:

I do know that most of the later model (’65 on) tractors had power steering available-some standard, some as an option. So that requirement can go either way-newer compact or older small farm tractor.

My tractor is gas, so I have no experience with diesel.  I can’t address the advantages or disadvantages.

The reversing PTO may be a dream-I just know that I was dumb enough to screw my tractor into the ground the first time I dug holes for my pole barn. I do know that both ground speed (for plowing) and engine speed(mowing) PTO are available on my old MF.  I seldom use the ground speed mode but usually use engine speed for mowing. My MF 35 also has a dual action clutch which makes engaging/using the PTO much easier.

I would definitely say that the scraper blade is more versatile that the box blade.  I have used both and ended up selling the box blade.

I can’t help with front end loaders-no experience there. I know that you will probably have to add weights to the rear to compensate for the extra front weight.  You also will need additional hydraulics(pump, reservoir, hoses, etc)

Cost may be a determining factor.  I see “older” tractors in the $5-8k range pretty frequently in our central NC area. Buying implements can be all over the place costwise.  I haven’t priced newer compact tractors, but assume they are much more expensive. So, if you can find a well maintained older tractor, I feel like you can get more for the $$$ spent. The maintenance is pretty easy, the tractors are simple and parts are generally available at reasonable cost. However, these older tractors are not a sophisticated-one tractor forum guy says”after all, you are dealing with ‘50’-60’s technology”.

I have purchased tractors, implements and parts from dealers and from individuals.  Had some good and ‘just ok” results from both.  Lots of on line sources for parts.

I would suggest that you start with whatever tractor you can find somewhat locally at a decent price, knowing that may not be the ultimate tractor you end up with.  Then start acquiring the necessary implements as needed.  All of the implements with be “standard” for 3 point hitch and PTO.  After you have more experience with what you actually need and want, then you will have more information to get the “perfect” tractor for what you really need. Getting a tractor now will get you immediately started, will let you know what you like/dislike about the tractor and give you time to find the better unit.

Regardless of what tractor you purchase, I would suggest that you buy ALL of the manuals you can find for that model-owner’s, workshop, parts lists and get both the original OEM manuals as well as aftermarket.  Particularly on older models the manuals go out of print and can be pretty expensive, but are invaluable.  Also, like RPODS, there are forum for everything.

Good luck

Vann