Winterizing Steps:

1) Open both low-point drains underneath the camper. These usually hang down along the left edge under the floor. You will need two crescent wrenches, or equivalent - one to hold the upper "nut", one to twist off the lower nut.

2) Open the hot and cold valves on the kitchen sink, then remove the anode rod plug on the hot water heater. Water will gush out - but it will not be under pressure. Inspect and replace the anode if necessary (about every two years). The water heater must be stored dry, do not try to fill it with antifreeze. Wait for the water to stop running out of the drains and plug hole. Using a garden hose, flush any debris from inside the water heater tank. If you don't need to inspect your anode rod you can pull open the pressure relief valve at the top of the water heater to speed up the draining process (some people do not recommend doing this due to a fear of damaging it, but others do it all the time w/o a problem). Insert the anode rod, using a layer of teflon tape on the threads.

3) Turn all 3 bypass valves on the hot water heater. The valves are inside the trailer on the back of the water heater - look on the outside of the camper to see where the water heater is located. The valves on the cold and hot water lines will now be perpendicular to the water lines (closed), and the valve between the hot and cold lines will now be parallel (open).

4) Attach a "blow-out plug" to the city water connection. This has an air inlet on one end like the Schrader valves on your tires, and threads to attach to the water connection. Any RV dealer should have one of these plugs. Apply LOW pressure air (less than 20 psi) until the low-point drains stop sputtering. Close the low-point drains finger-tight.

5) Open each valve inside the camper, one at a time, until it sputters and then close it. Don't forget the toilet and shower. Remove the blow-out plug. If your camper has the black tank rinse connection, apply air to this connection for several seconds using the blow-out plug.

6) Inside the trailer, remove the access panel for the water pump (on the 171 its the same location as the water heater). On the intake line for the water pump, you'll notice a valve and about 2 1/2' of tubing that's loose on one end. A few model years did not include this at all, later models don't have the valve and you must remove the intake hose to attach the antifreeze pick-up hose. If you don't have one you can buy the pick-up hose from any dealer. Flip the valve and put the loose end into your jug of PINK RV antifreeze (DO NOT USE ORANGE OR GREEN AUTO ANTIFREEZE). The pump will now draw from the jug of antifreeze instead of your fresh water tank.

7) Turn on the switch for the water pump.

8) Turn on the taps at the sink and in the shower, one at a time. Let each run until the water is the color of your antifreeze (pink), then close it.

9) Run the toilet until the water is pink. Flush what comes out at first, but leave some of the pure antifeeze in the bowl for the winter.

10) Open the low-point drains again, let them run until you see pink. Close them tightly.

11) Pull the hose out of the antifreeze bottle just enough so it can't suck up any more antifreeze. Turn on the sink again for a second or two until the antifreeze is out of the intake line. This keeps the sticky antifreeze from running all over the floor when you pull the intake completely out of the bottle.

12) Close the valve near the water pump, stow the intake hose and close the access panel, turn off the power for the water pump.

13) Outside and underneath the trailer, open your freshwater tank's drain valve and allow it to empty.

14) Pour some RV antifreeze into the shower and sink drains to fill the water traps.

15) Make sure the black and gray waste water tanks are empty. The last dump of the season fill both tanks full of water before dumping. Repeat at least once.

16) Set the fridge's door latch so it stays open - look at the assembly on the wall of the fridge, you can slide it out some so when the door is latched it stays open enough to prevent mold from growing. Or just hang a hand towl over the door so it won't close.

17) Open the lower fridge vent and look for the white drip cup. It can be removed by pulling it towards you. Empty and replace. 

18) Remove the 9 volt batteries from the smoke and CO detectors, and make sure the lead-acid battery is disconnected.

Couple questions....

I have one important caution for you if you use a compressor--it was listed above. I want to make a special point about the air pressure. Make sure you have at least one valve/faucet  open  as the air pressure can be very high and blow out a connection if you haven't properly adjusted the compressor first.  You only need 20-25 psi to blow out the water in the lines.

Vann

https://youtu.be/173ozyKAcqk - https://youtu.be/173ozyKAcqk

~PP

I've got a 179 with the 4 low-point drain valves and need to replace one of them.  I've looked high and low but can't find them anywhere. Does anyone know where to buy them or what the part number is?  Thanks

This is great information.  Thank you for the time you took to write it up.

One question:  If all the water is blown out of the plumbing, why is the anti-freeze necessary?

The 16 oz. RV antifreeze I use each fall is only used for the traps and to cover the seal on the toilet to keep it moist.  I gallon lasts me 8 years.  No antifreeze is used for the water lines.

BTW, "Pilgrim's Progress" is my 2nd favorite book ever read.

Thank you, jato.  That is very helpful. 

Yes, you picked up on the bi-line.  It's my second favorite book also.  Amazing for a 400+ year old book.