Someone had suggested that, then just adding some RV antifreeze to the sink and toilet trap.  How much pressure can you safely blow through?  Where do you hook up the compressor and can you get by with just a single hookup?  Just trying to avoid putting antifreeze in the water lines and water heater.  Thanks for any help or suggestions with this.  We have a 2017 Rpod 178.  

Before starting this process close your 2 or 3 winterizing valves then drain your HW tank and flush out with a garden hose.  Open your 2 low point drains until dry and re-install.

We have used compressed air to blow out our 177 for 9 years.  Air pressure is set at 80 psi and the air chuck is inserted in the pigtail that is downstream from the 3 way valve (on ours it is located under the sink).  It is the same short hose that is used when using rv antifreeze to winterize the whole system.

BEFORE turning pressure on, open the 3 way valve and OPEN one hot or cold faucet.  Turn pressure on and leave your H or C open until only air comes out, at this point open a 2nd valve to repeat this process and then close the first.  Repeat this process, always leaving one valve open until you get to all of them including your Thetford toilet.  Total process takes just under 2 minutes on a 177 going through each valve 2 times.  When complete remove your air gun from the pigtail and remember to turn your 3 way valve back to the original position otherwise come next spring you are going to wonder why your pump doesn't move water.  Ask me how I know.

When complete a total of 16 oz. rv antifreeze is used for the 2 sink and 1 shower drain as well as a small amount for the top of the toilet to keep the seal moist throughout the winter. 

Just to double check when completed you may want to unscrew your low point drains once again to verify lines are dry (you may have a few drops of water left) and unscrew the plastic bowl that is attached to the water pump for the same reason.  I did this the first couple years but finding only a drop or two left both times, no longer do that step.  Location northern Michigan.

First year did the traditional 2 gallons antifreeze through all lines.  Yes, it worked but was unhappy with the nasty antifreeze taste and went through a few mixtures of white vinegar and lemon juice to rid the lines of the taste.  Since then it has been compressed air only with no negative results.  Good luck.

Do you not hook the air hose to the city water supply line with the blow out adapter?  YOu only use the pigtail?  Do air flow through the water pump, or do you need to turn it on?  Also, have you have any trouble with using air to clear out your toilet valve and if so, is there a certain procedure you use to make sure all the water is out of the toilet valve.  Thanks for any advice.

Al

Al,

I have only used the city water supply line once in 10 years of ownership of our 177.  That was the first year and that was the only year I used the 'traditional' 2 gallons antifreeze in the whole system.

In that we almost always boondock and always just use the FW tank for drinking, showering, and everything else yes, only use the pigtail for blowing out the lines.  In your case if you have used the city water supply, yes use the blow out adapter to blow that part out as well but the majority of the process will be done via the pigtail. 

While blowing out, leave the pump off, the air pressure will clear pump of water.  If you have doubts, I did the first year doing this, then unscrew the plastic bowl on the end of the pump (there is a screen inside to catch debris) and see how much water is in it.  First year I did this, I counted 2 drops of water that were in the bowl, obviously not enough to freeze and cause any damage.

Toilet, as stated before,  go through all outlets twice.  Toilet is no different from any other outlet,  keep open until all you see/hear is air without any mist - you will be good.

Thanks for getting back to me.  
Great info..  Is there some kind of a check valve at the city hookup so when you are using the pump, water isn't pumped out the city outlet plug?  Doesn't that portion of line still get water from the pump even if you never hook on to city water?    Do you have a special fitting for the pigtail to attach to your air hose, or do you just use the air gun nozzle?  Also, do you have a way of draining the hose back from the 3 way valve back to the fresh water holding tank or does that just gravity drains back?  If it would be easier for you to explain over the phone, you are welcome to call me at 515-783-8655.  I am retired, so available most anytime between 9 am and 8 pm Central standard time.  Thanks again.  

I don't know if you got my last text yesterday.  We are going to have to pass on the R-Pod rally as that is the same weekend my daughter is doing her first 1/2 Iron Man here in DM.. Tell Diane thanks for the invite. That really sounded like a lot of fun and I have wanted to camp in Michigan as it looks like there are a lot of nice parks.

Just one other question.  What did you say moving the bi metal switch will do closer to the cooling stack; make the refrig. work better?  

Really enjoyed talking on the phone yesterday.  I can't believe of all the people on the forum I could have reached out to, your the one that likes to bike and was a golf Supt..  What a small world.  Again, thanks for all sharing your expertise.

Al MacRae

Moving the switch closer makes the exhaust fans come on sooner and stay on longer. the switch is thermostatically controlled and is what activates the fan.  by coming on sooner and staying on longer, the fans  will evacuate more hot air quicker which will help the refrigerator cool better. Keeping the excess heat removed fro the rear compartment is vital for the fridge efficiency.

Vann

I moved my switch closer to the cooling stack, so we will see if it makes a difference.  Since I have only used the trailer once since we got it, it might be hard to tell.  Is it warmer by the cooling stack than by the fins and that's why it kicks the fan on sooner?  Your brother is pretty smart to figure that out.  He should share that with Forest River.  Thanks for the tip.

Al

I thought I would let you know I blew out our RPod today and it went pretty well; I think .  When I got done, I looked at the pump filter/bowl and like you said, there was litterly one drop of water in it.  The reason I did blow it out was to learn how to do it, plus it is supposed to get down to 30 tonight and 28 tomorrow night (freezing or below for about 4 - 5 hours)  Figured this was a good time to learn.  Did you day you only add antifreeze to the sink drain in the kitchen and bathroom, add some to the shower drain and a little in the toilet to keep the seal from drying out?  You don't add any to your black or grey water tank, right?  I should be good.  I did drain the water heater, again just for practice.  With it heating, I don't think it would ever freeze in that compartment.  Stays pretty warm.  Thanks for all the tips in doing it this way.  Greatly appreciated.  Not much different than blowing out an irrigation system besides smaller .  

I also texted you a picture of the new location for the bi-metal switch and seeing if I got it in a good location.  Thanks for that tip also.

We did go out camping Sun. night at a state park not too far from home.  The camper worked great.  Very comfy.  Still have a sensor on the black tank that says it is 1/3 full when it appears to be empty, so will have to see if I can get that freed up with a tank solution.  The duct work I put on my heater worked great.  Blows most of the hot air out into the camper, but still let a little stay under the bed.  I always like when an idea actually works.  Otherwise a good time.  Talk to you soon.

Do you still bike some?

Good job on using compressed air Al.  Good practice as you say.  With temps in upper 20's or 30 ish overnight you don't need to be overly concerned as long as the next day temps get above freezing and you are running heat in your 178 at night.

Don't be overly concerned about what the sensor shows as how full your tanks are; they are notoriously incorrect.  We go by starting with 1 full FW tank and about 4 gallons in the black tank when taking off.  Grey is empty.  When the FW tank is near or at empty it is time to drain the other two and start over.

Yes, I use a total of 16 oz. rv antifreeze for winterization.  2 sink traps, 1 shower trap, a skosh for the toilet.  I much prefer this to blowing out the irrigation at the golf course.  With 4 courses that is a lot of water to move even with a 375 cfm Sullair compresser!  And of course it is usually when temps are less than 40, rain and or snow, and lots of wind out of the north.  When all went well it was a 6 day test of endurance and patience.

Glad to hear about your heater duct working well, think I will have to copy that.  Still biking, yes, very enjoyable here in northern Michigan along Torch Lake, although now it is a bit nippy.  Currently using a Specialized Allez road bike, with the 2 water bottles full it weighs close to 20 lbs, that includes a few tools carried in a saddlebag under the seat in case of a flat - also carry a spare tube.  Sure is a lot lighter than the tandem we used for many years, a 1993 Trek 200, weighed in at 42 lbs and we both had Brook leather saddles.  With 4 full water bottles and tools it was closer to 48 lbs, but then again with two people it was a lot of fun.