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Axle Problem 2015 182G

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Topic: Axle Problem 2015 182G
Posted By: Blitzkrieg3002
Subject: Axle Problem 2015 182G
Date Posted: 03 May 2021 at 11:06am
Hi fellow Rpod owners,

I bought a 2015 Rpod 182g used from original owner 3 years back. After my last trip I noticed the driver side wheel/tire camber is very toed in up at the top. Negative camber. The inside edge of the tire is so badly worn I need to replace them. However it looks like axle is shot to me as I don’t know what else would cause the camber to be off so badly. The dry sticker weight of my pod is just over 3,000lbs.

Where can I find info about the specs of my axle and finding a replacement? I have a trip coming up and need to order new parts. I can do the work myself. Is there a better upgraded axle people are putting on the pods since this one didn’t last at all?

I’ll get some measurements off of the axle tonight.



Replies:
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 03 May 2021 at 11:23am
Your problem is pretty common and is usually caused by the inboard mounting of the axle to the rpod frame, which results in the axle being cantilevered.

There should be a sticker on the axle with model and serial number. Most are manufactured by Lippert.

You can upgrade from a 3500 lb to a 4400 lb axle. The brake back plate to back plate dimension, the mounting spacing, and the takeoff angle of the torsion arms need to match what you have.

Note that the heavier axle has 6 lugs so you will need new wheels as well as tires. You can go with 15 inch wheels but you will need an able riser kit if you don't already have one.

Edit: if you have a good trailer shop in your area you could consider getting your current axle straightened and then reinforce it, assuming it's the diamond axle tube that's bent. A simple reinforcement is to ubolt a 2x2 steel angle under the existing axle, using 2 ubolts at each end each at 45 degrees. The angle should be slightly crowned to mate up to the axle which should be also be crowned in the center. I did the reinforcement on mine before it got bent. If you do an advanced search you should find my posting.

-------------
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: Olddawgsrule
Date Posted: 04 May 2021 at 9:11am
When I first saw 'my' issue, I also thought it was the axle. I went under to string the axle and check camber and found the real issue. I had frame damage and the slide side wall fell. If you haven't yet, do go under and throughly inspect. Issue at the frame is where the axle support is mounted. Look for buckling or cracks.

-------------
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJduGeZNFgtptH67leItRFQ - Byways no Highways
2017 Tacoma
http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=72408 - Truck Camper Build
2004 F150 My Overlander


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 04 May 2021 at 10:30am
+1. Definitely check from frame damage too while you're under there. But negative camber indicates a bent axle, I don't think a frame failure alone would cause that. Doesn't mean you can't have both at once if you hit a curb or pothole hard when heavily loaded.

-------------
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: Blitzkrieg3002
Date Posted: 04 May 2021 at 10:47am
So i've taken some measurements.  I've looked into a Dexter #10 axle.  it's also a 3500.  their next highest axle is a #11 which is a 4100-6000lb axle.  the #10 seems to be the choice for my pod.  it's dry weight on the sticker is 3044lbs, and GVWR 3862lbs.  I think i'm regularly loaded over 3500lbs and close to GVWR once everything is in their.  The Dexter 3500 looks like its rated for 2300-4000lbs I believe so i think it would be my choice.  

I'm trying to figure out a few measurements for replacing an axle.  When i measure for my spindle starting angle do i need to measure it with the pod jacked up and the tire off the ground? as it sits with weight on it, it looks like it rests at about 20-30degree's up eyeballing it.  My choices for starting angle are 0 degree, 10 degree's up or 22.5 degree's up.

No signs of any frame damage from what i see.  I do have the risers installed.

Also, does the rpod run a 5x4.5" bolt pattern?


Posted By: Toyanvil
Date Posted: 04 May 2021 at 12:44pm
There is a difference between a bent axle and one that has lost it's camber. If your axle is flat across the middle it is a good chance it has just lost camber and can be realigned. Overloading is normally what causes this, and most people don't weigh their trailers and just go by the factory decal. My 178 shows something like 2750 lbs on the factory decal, but weighs 3200 lbs at the scales ready to camp. So am only 300 lbs under the max axle rating, add in a WDH adding around 100 lbs to the axle, bad roads and extra water in the tanks and your axle will flatten out over time. Remember the math, I keep my trailer under 3400 total lbs at all times and try to slow down for bumps.
Just look around for a good frame or trailer shop in your town and have them align it, It's like having your car aligned. I see people buying new axles and it will just happen again. A 5000 lbs axle will start new problems you didn't need, and will be a lot more money.
This is the problem with the way R Pods are built, your axle is 89.5 inches from center of hub to center of hub and 59.25 inches frame mount to frame mount = 15 inches of over hang on each side, the R Pod frame should have been about 15 inches wider making it only 7.5 inch over hang. If you call any axle company and tell them you are building a trailer with frame rails 59.25 inches apart and you want hubs 89.5 inches apart they well tell you don't do it. That is why I did this two years ago with no more problems. Here is how I fixed my 178, P.S there are easier ways to do it on this site.

before

After 



Posted By: marwayne
Date Posted: 04 May 2021 at 2:02pm
This is how I solved my problem

https://postimages.org/"> https://thesawmillgrill.com/ - calabash restaurant wilmington nc

https://postimages.org/">


-------------
If you want something done right, do it yourself.
2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd.




Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 04 May 2021 at 2:14pm
You can see in my mods how I solved the problem.

-------------
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS


Posted By: Blitzkrieg3002
Date Posted: 04 May 2021 at 4:08pm
Originally posted by marwayne

This is how I solved my problem

https://postimages.org/"> https://thesawmillgrill.com/ - calabash restaurant wilmington nc

https://postimages.org/">

I really like your setup.  do you have a writeup on what you did? looks pretty straight forward.  Just have to find a place to order the metal.  Is the angle piece that pushes on the axle just angle iron welded to a threaded stud?  and is that just a 2" piece of square tube 1/4" thick that runs the length of the middle of the pod and then bolted to the custom made alignment stubs with the same square tubing bolted through the riser?


Posted By: Blitzkrieg3002
Date Posted: 04 May 2021 at 4:21pm
Originally posted by Toyanvil

There is a difference between a bent axle and one that has lost it's camber. If your axle is flat across the middle it is a good chance it has just lost camber and can be realigned. Overloading is normally what causes this, and most people don't weigh their trailers and just go by the factory decal. My 178 shows something like 2750 lbs on the factory decal, but weighs 3200 lbs at the scales ready to camp. So am only 300 lbs under the max axle rating, add in a WDH adding around 100 lbs to the axle, bad roads and extra water in the tanks and your axle will flatten out over time. Remember the math, I keep my trailer under 3400 total lbs at all times and try to slow down for bumps.
Just look around for a good frame or trailer shop in your town and have them align it, It's like having your car aligned. I see people buying new axles and it will just happen again. A 5000 lbs axle will start new problems you didn't need, and will be a lot more money.
This is the problem with the way R Pods are built, your axle is 89.5 inches from center of hub to center of hub and 59.25 inches frame mount to frame mount = 15 inches of over hang on each side, the R Pod frame should have been about 15 inches wider making it only 7.5 inch over hang. If you call any axle company and tell them you are building a trailer with frame rails 59.25 inches apart and you want hubs 89.5 inches apart they well tell you don't do it. That is why I did this two years ago with no more problems. Here is how I fixed my 178, P.S there are easier ways to do it on this site.

before

After 


Looks awesome! I'm digging it.  My axle is actually bowed up in the middle under the center of the rpod and not flat.  I'm thinking it's exactly what you stated and that the edges of the axle have just bowed up slightly due to the mounting bracket location.  I was originally thinking of ordering a new Dexter axle and widening the mounting location with some 4" 3/8 thick angle iron and 3 big gussets.  but these fixes look a lot cheaper and potentially better as you have an added ability to adjust the camber.


Posted By: Olddawgsrule
Date Posted: 04 May 2021 at 5:08pm
Short of the riser that I still believe does not traverse the frame long enough (3ft plus in my mind) Toyanvil's  design is one of the 'best' I have seen! It hits all the math for strength! 

If he's not a ME.. He missed his calling! Then again, maybe he followed is just that good!

If you're going to follow a design, his is one I strongly suggest.

MHO... Safe Travels!



-------------
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJduGeZNFgtptH67leItRFQ - Byways no Highways
2017 Tacoma
http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=72408 - Truck Camper Build
2004 F150 My Overlander


Posted By: Blitzkrieg3002
Date Posted: 04 May 2021 at 5:29pm
Originally posted by Olddawgsrule

Short of the riser that I still believe does not traverse the frame long enough (3ft plus in my mind) Toyanvil's  design is one of the 'best' I have seen! It hits all the math for strength! 

If he's not a ME.. He missed his calling! Then again, maybe he followed is just that good!

If you're going to follow a design, his is one I strongly suggest.

MHO... Safe Travels!


I agree.  I'm curious on how he did it.  if there is a post on here that goes more in depth please link me it as i've been searching for it.  I have priced out all the materials and have a solid idea on how i could do Marwayne's fix that looks solid as well.


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 04 May 2021 at 6:03pm
I disagree.

I am an engineer and Toyanvil's design while it worhs and is aesthetically pleasing is a complex solution to a simple problem. It also produces moments (torques) on the frame rails that are not necessary or beneficial.

The axle tube is a simple double ended cantilever. As such if it has equal loads on each end from the wheel attachments the bending moments on it increase from the ends to the attachment points and then remain constant and high along the entire length between the attachment points. This is why you can see the entire axle tube flattening out under an excessive load. If you only bent one side that doesn't mean the other side or both at once sound be overloaded next time, decambering the whole axle.

A simple steel angle extending the length of the axle will reinforce it over it's full length very simply. The section modulus of the combination of the tube and angle is the same whether the angle is above or below the tube, meaning that it will reinforce the axle equally well below or above. No welding required. The only thing you need to do is camber the tube slightly, which any shop with a decent size press ought to be able to do.

If you do decide to get a heavier axle that is ok too, no reason to think it will cause other issues. The rpod frame is weak at the axle mounting point so it can and has bent there but a stronger axle won't make that worse, the loads are the same.

If my axle had been bent before I reinforced it I would have replaced it with a heavier one, as there are other parts of the axle that can and have failed, the rubber the torsion arms rides in being one.

The load rating numbers Dexter and Lippert provide for their axle ranges assume the axle is mounted at the ends, so there is a substantial derate when you mount them to the rpod. The take off angle is at the end of the model number if you have a Lippert axle and is listed on the axle label.

-------------
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: Blitzkrieg3002
Date Posted: 04 May 2021 at 7:22pm
what are your guys thoughts on this as a fix. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FtXRGOadTKU&t=130s

i've ran it by my buddy who's a welder fabricator as well as the other fixes posted and he seems to think this is the most simple and easy fix.  he also thinks we should do this fix with my existing axle and weld new wider mounting brackets onto my existing axle.   He thinks widening the stance on the existing axle will fix the flex that is happening to cause the wheel to sag.  i guess worst case scenario if it didn't solve it with my existing axle i could then re enforce with the piece of angle the full length of the axle or order a new axle with the widened frame mounts.


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 04 May 2021 at 8:06pm
You can't do that fix with your existing axle because you can't weld to a torsion axle, theres rubber in there. Also I don't see how welding brackets could be simpler than just ubolting an angle to the axle.

The other problem with it is that it will also place a moment (torque) on the frame. The frame at the axle attachment is the next weakest link in the chain after the axle.

Better to just reinforce the cantilevered axle. That places no new stresses on the frame and is easy to analyze so you know accurately what additional capacity you have in the axle tube afterwards. If you do a search you will find my calcs back when I ran the numbers a couple years ago.



-------------
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: Blitzkrieg3002
Date Posted: 04 May 2021 at 10:00pm
Originally posted by offgrid

You can't do that fix with your existing axle because you can't weld to a torsion axle, theres rubber in there. Also I don't see how welding brackets could be simpler than just ubolting an angle to the axle.

The other problem with it is that it will also place a moment (torque) on the frame. The frame at the axle attachment is the next weakest link in the chain after the axle.

Better to just reinforce the cantilevered axle. That places no new stresses on the frame and is easy to analyze so you know accurately what additional capacity you have in the axle tube afterwards. If you do a search you will find my calcs back when I ran the numbers a couple years ago.


Makes sense,  I read StephenH his fix in his mods.  u bolting a piece of angle to the axle.  You guys think it will work with my existing axle or i'd have to order a new one?  if i order a brand new axle i'm going to do the widened angle iron mounting fix in the video above.  if i can get away with just adding angle to my axle and you think it will work i'll give that a go.  seems simple and cheap.  I'll post some pix of my axle in a bit.


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 05 May 2021 at 7:03am
Look for my fix which uses square bend ubolts, no welding. You mount two ubolts at each end of the axle, each at a 45 degree angle.

A good trailer or frame shop can tell you whether they can recamber the axle for you or not. Steel is a flexible material and will behave elastically under load, returning to it's original shape unless it has exceeded it's yield point and undergone permanent plastic deformation. That is considered a failure in engineering terms and had happened to yours.

If it does that then the portion of the part that was permanently deformed can get work hardened and might no longer be able to be bent back to it's original shape. The shop will be able to tell by what happens when they try to recamber it. One way or the other you need to remove the axle.

I'm not sure you understood my point about widening the frame axle attachment. Have you looked at the tube thickness? It's only 0.1 inch material. If you widen the attachment you are placing a moment (torque) on the tube because the axle is now trying to twist the tubes outward at the bottom and inward at the top. The tube is already weak at that point (there is at least one case of a bent axle tube there that's been reported on this forum). I wouldn't do anything to compromise it further, you'd just be moving the problem somewhere else.

Reinforcing or buying a stronger axle and attaching it to the frame tubes without widening the spacing doesn't change the loading on the frame.

Your least expensive fix is to get your axle recambered if possible, add the angle under it, and reinstall. The next cheapest is going to be getting a new 3500 lb axle and adding an angle under it. Next is to get a heavier axle, which requires new brake assemblies and wheels.

As an engineer, I don't trust parts that have already failed (exceeded their yield point) so I would go with option 3 in your case. That upgrades the brakes which are marginal too, mine won't lock up the wheels even at full boost from the brake controller. Up to you which option you select.





-------------
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: Blitzkrieg3002
Date Posted: 05 May 2021 at 10:12am
Originally posted by offgrid

Look for my fix which uses square bend ubolts, no welding. You mount two ubolts at each end of the axle, each at a 45 degree angle.

A good trailer or frame shop can tell you whether they can recamber the axle for you or not. Steel is a flexible material and will behave elastically under load, returning to it's original shape unless it has exceeded it's yield point and undergone permanent plastic deformation. That is considered a failure in engineering terms and had happened to yours.

If it does that then the portion of the part that was permanently deformed can get work hardened and might no longer be able to be bent back to it's original shape. The shop will be able to tell by what happens when they try to recamber it. One way or the other you need to remove the axle.

I'm not sure you understood my point about widening the frame axle attachment. Have you looked at the tube thickness? It's only 0.1 inch material. If you widen the attachment you are placing a moment (torque) on the tube because the axle is now trying to twist the tubes outward at the bottom and inward at the top. The tube is already weak at that point (there is at least one case of a bent axle tube there that's been reported on this forum). I wouldn't do anything to compromise it further, you'd just be moving the problem somewhere else.

Reinforcing or buying a stronger axle and attaching it to the frame tubes without widening the spacing doesn't change the loading on the frame.

Your least expensive fix is to get your axle recambered if possible, add the angle under it, and reinstall. The next cheapest is going to be getting a new 3500 lb axle and adding an angle under it. Next is to get a heavier axle, which requires new brake assemblies and wheels.

As an engineer, I don't trust parts that have already failed (exceeded their yield point) so I would go with option 3 in your case. That upgrades the brakes which are marginal too, mine won't lock up the wheels even at full boost from the brake controller. Up to you which option you select.




Good deal.  I filled out a warranty claim with Lippert today.  Will call them later this afternoon and see what they say.  Looks like some have had luck with them replacing the part under warranty while others haven't.  Figured i'd try my luck at that first.

I've spend a good 20-30 minutes searching the forum for your version of the fix offgrid.  if you happen to have a link to your post to point me in the right direction that would be awesome.  I'll keep searching. i'm sure i'll find it!  If i replace the axle I want to reinforce it for sure.


Posted By: Toyanvil
Date Posted: 05 May 2021 at 10:28am
I will jump in here. You don't need to remove the axle to have it re-cambered and aligned, the shop will need it on the trailer to align it (just like a car). If I were you, I would just pick up some angle iron and u-bolts and bring them to the alignment shop and have them bend the angle iron with the axle and install the u-bolts. No need to remove the axle or buy anything else and go camping. P.S everything I build is always over kill LOL
Here is my trailer being aligned.

Here is the pull wagon I built for camping, just to show my over kill sickness.



Posted By: Blitzkrieg3002
Date Posted: 05 May 2021 at 11:06am
Originally posted by Toyanvil

I will jump in here. You don't need to remove the axle to have it re-cambered and aligned, the shop will need it on the trailer to align it (just like a car). If I were you, I would just pick up some angle iron and u-bolts and bring them to the alignment shop and have them bend the angle iron with the axle and install the u-bolts. No need to remove the axle or buy anything else and go camping. P.S everything I build is always over kill LOL
Here is my trailer being aligned.
Here is the pull wagon I built for camping, just to show my over kill sickness.


Awesome! You think any old alignment shop will do this? Or need to find one that specializes in trailer alignments? I may be able to do it myself actually at my fathers shop. I think if they won’t cover the new axle I’m going to try this myself.


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 05 May 2021 at 12:23pm
http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=12591&KW=axle+reinforcement&PID=120730&title=axle-reinforcement#120730 - axle reinforcement

I will defer to Toyanvil on whether or not you need to remove the axle to straighten it. Mine wasn't bent, I reinforced it preventatively knowing I have a heavy rpod and was taking it on some rough roads.

Since as you've described your axle it's bent pretty badly on one side and not at all on the other I would recommend taking it to a shop with experience doing this type if repair.



-------------
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: Toyanvil
Date Posted: 05 May 2021 at 1:05pm
Originally posted by Blitzkrieg3002

 

Awesome! You think any old alignment shop will do this? Or need to find one that specializes in trailer alignments? I may be able to do it myself actually at my fathers shop. I think if they won’t cover the new axle I’m going to try this myself.

Look for a shop that does trailers or lager trucks. If you do it yourself, I am not sure how you would set the toe adjustment, mine was an .5 inch out. The shop that did mine put small bends all the way across instead of one big one in the middle. It was about $250.



Posted By: Blitzkrieg3002
Date Posted: 05 May 2021 at 1:36pm
Here’s some pics.

Underneath


Driver side


Driver Tread wear


Passenger


Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 05 May 2021 at 2:18pm
When I had the problem with my axle, it was not covered. I had to purchase the replacement. That axle did have a problem in that the mounting plate for the bake shoes had not been properly welded. That axle was replaced under warranty. I reinforced my axle similar to what has been mentioned. 

This is the link to where the axle reinforcement mod starts:
http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712&PID=124418&title=our-escapod-mods#124418 - StephenH's RP179 Axle Reinforcement Modification.


-------------
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS


Posted By: Blitzkrieg3002
Date Posted: 05 May 2021 at 3:06pm
Originally posted by StephenH

When I had the problem with my axle, it was not covered. I had to purchase the replacement. That axle did have a problem in that the mounting plate for the bake shoes had not been properly welded. That axle was replaced under warranty. I reinforced my axle similar to what has been mentioned. 
This is the link to where the axle reinforcement mod starts:
http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712&PID=124418&title=our-escapod-mods#124418 - StephenH's RP179 Axle Reinforcement Modification.


Awesome write up there StephenH ! I will see what Lippert says and then decide. Pretty annoying that they aren’t covering these. I have seen some that have been covered so we will see. Amazing seeing how many people that have had the same issue and Rpod themselves never issued any type of recall. Seems like a total design flaw/scam if you ask me.


Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 05 May 2021 at 7:30pm
Design flaw I would definitely agree with. Scam I would not. It seems like just making the frame a little wider so the axle would not have been cantilevered so far would have gone a long ways toward not having this problem. Lippert can always say that the axle was not their fault. Who has not hit rough roads? Who hasn't hit a curb in learning how to maneuver these trailers or going into or out of tight turns into parking lots? The lighter trailers may be able to get away with the overhang, but the heavier models such as our 179 or the 180 or other larger models just are too marginal to begin with. 

I think that is likely one of the reasons the 17x and 18x models are disappearing and the 19x and 20x models which, if I understand correctly, do have a wider frame and not as much cantilever on the axle are being sold. Hopefully, the bending axles will not be an issue with them.


-------------
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS


Posted By: Toyanvil
Date Posted: 05 May 2021 at 7:47pm
What is sad is they are still building them this way.


Posted By: Blitzkrieg3002
Date Posted: 06 May 2021 at 12:16am
Originally posted by Toyanvil

What is sad is they are still building them this way.

exactly.


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 06 May 2021 at 7:38am
The narrow body rpods are designed with thin wall inboard frame rails to allow the composite floor panels to span the width of the trailer and still take the loads if the side walls. That also requires the axle to act as a cantilever. All in the interest of keeping cost and weight as low as possible. In theory.

In practice it creates a marginal structure. The worst is really the floor as composite as plywood is not very elastic and is sensitive to water damage, when it fails you can have an irreparable trailer. At least the frame and axle are readily repairable.

The underlying problem is FRs design standards. It's not like they just started making heavier trailers with the same structural design without knowing what they were doing. It's not ticket science to determine the load capacity of an rpod. You can do it with basic beam loading formulas, you don't even need an FEA model.
None of the above components are designed to handle more than about a 2g bump load. That is insufficient. Everything I've read suggests that heavy trucks (which are subject to lower g forces) should be designed to 2.5-3 g's and passenger cars and trucks to more than 3 g's plus.

At 2gs you have to either keep the trailer really light or be really careful never to hit a serious bump, curb, or pot hole. Good luck with that.

I wouldn't count on the bigger rpods having higher design standards without analyzing the structure first either.




-------------
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: Blitzkrieg3002
Date Posted: 06 May 2021 at 11:09am
Yea, when i said scam i kinda meant that Rpod should be building these things to last more than a handful of years.  For the amount of money they charge for these units to overlook something so simple like this leaves more questions out there for me.  I always knew travel trailers were designed and built cheap.  I thought the Rpod was a step up on quality than most but experiences have leaned me to question that.  Some get lucky, but some with heavier pods like mine are having issues.  It just seems like a bad design from everyone i've showed my problem.  

either way i appreciate everyones help and input.  Ive sourced a place to buy some angle iron this afternoon.  Going to go find some Square U bolts today as well.  Tommorrow i'll bring the trailer down to my dad's shop.  He's an experienced semi retired auto body mechanic with years of experience straightening frames from auto accidents.  I've learned a ton from him over the years.  He's fully confident we can straighten the axle back into alignment and then reinforce it.  

I'll take some pictures of the process and post up our progress.  Wish us luck and keep on podding!


Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 06 May 2021 at 12:48pm
I'm looking forward to hearing how it goes and seeing some pictures. 

-------------
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 07 May 2021 at 6:57am
There isn't really anything upscale in quality in an rpod. If you want a high quality trailer get something like a Bigfoot. Tons more money and weight.

Weight is a key criterion in the design of the rpods. FR sells these things to folks with little 3500 lb tow rated SUVs (now there is a bad business practice for you, and dangerous). They can't keep the weight and cost low without giving up something, which is strength in this case.

I ordered my ubolts. They weren't available at hardware stores. The link is in my write up, good folks to deal with. Be sure to get your dad to camber the angle to mate up with the recambered axle. The proper crown dimension is discussed in the write up, run a string line along the bottom of the axle end to end and measure the gap in the center, with load off the wheels.





-------------
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 07 May 2021 at 2:48pm
Light-cheap-strong.. pick two.


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Posted By: SC for Huskers
Date Posted: 07 May 2021 at 3:59pm
Offgrid, Do you think the 5" U bolts would be long enough, or do you think go like you did with the 6" and cut them off.Confused   Another one please, did you use lock washers or the flat ones that come with the bolt as a kit?
Thanks


-------------
Happy Traveling,
Tom
2017 172pod
2011 F150 STX


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 07 May 2021 at 4:23pm
The longer ubolts were helpful because it made it easier to get the nuts started. The angle being slightly bent doesn't initially push up tightly against the axle with the first ubolts. It all comes together fine once you get all the ubolts on and start tightening them. I think if you used a floor jack in the center shorter ones would be ok, I was holding the angle up by hand which made it a bit awkward. No need to cut them off if you use the long ones, they're not in the way of anything. You need a long reach socket though.

The ubolts I got were fine threaded with heavy washers behind the backing plate. They didn't use or need lock washers. There was a specific torque setting for them IIRC.



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1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: Olddawgsrule
Date Posted: 07 May 2021 at 4:34pm
Originally posted by furpod

Light-cheap-strong.. pick two.

LOL Ain't that the truth.. 


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https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJduGeZNFgtptH67leItRFQ - Byways no Highways
2017 Tacoma
http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=72408 - Truck Camper Build
2004 F150 My Overlander


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 07 May 2021 at 5:52pm
Originally posted by furpod

Light-cheap-strong.. pick two.


Is there one that's cheap and strong?









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1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: Blitzkrieg3002
Date Posted: 07 May 2021 at 7:03pm
So, just got done temp fixing the pod. Turns out the axle is okay. We’ll sort of. The problem was a bent spindle. We started off by hooking a dial indicator up and measured about 50 thousands of flex in the edge of the axle jacking up the pod and lowering it back down. Nothing too crazy to us. We then pulled the tire off and could clearly see the bent spindle.

We grabbed an old leftover bent wheel, a BFH, a straight edge to check our bend and progress, some jack stands to brace properly and went to town correcting the bend.

I didn’t get a ton of pics but here’s what I got.

Before


Putting some force on the wheel


BFH time




After


I had to replace the brake shoes as well. The drum was so cockeyed it wore the rear brake shoe down to metal. I’ll likely order a new axle, but being so long out with shipping. (Quotes over a month wait) I’m happy with fix for the time being.

I really don’t know what I must’ve hit to cause this. Truly puzzling. the amount of force required, one would think I would’ve noticed. Guess it’s just these California roads.


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 08 May 2021 at 6:07am
Very interesting and thanks for the report and the temp fix. I'd worry about putting a lot of side load on the frame with the bottle jack though.

I was wondering when we'd get a bent spindle here. When you said your axle hadn't lost it's crown that was a good clue. Unfortunately you can't replace a spindle, they assemble them by compressing and freezing the rubber, insert the spindle, and let it thaw. No way to reverse that.

In the end a 3500 lb axle is just too light for a heavily loaded rpod on the kind of roads we have in a lot of the country. If you're having to replace brake assemblies as well as the axle it wouldn't be much more $ to upgrade to the heavier axle.




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1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: lostagain
Date Posted: 08 May 2021 at 6:26am
Blitz, good thing you didn't tow your Pod across Indiana on I-80.  The bend in the spindles would likely have left your tires touching the trailer on the top side.  Ouch

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Never leave footprints behind.
Fred & Maria Kearney
Sonoma 167RB
Our Pod 172
2019 Ford F-150 4x4 2.7 EcoBoost


Posted By: Blitzkrieg3002
Date Posted: 08 May 2021 at 11:37am
Originally posted by offgrid

Very interesting and thanks for the report and the temp fix. I'd worry about putting a lot of side load on the frame with the bottle jack though.

I was wondering when we'd get a bent spindle here. When you said your axle hadn't lost it's crown that was a good clue. Unfortunately you can't replace a spindle, they assemble them by compressing and freezing the rubber, insert the spindle, and let it thaw. No way to reverse that.

In the end a 3500 lb axle is just too light for a heavily loaded rpod on the kind of roads we have in a lot of the country. If you're having to replace brake assemblies as well as the axle it wouldn't be much more $ to upgrade to the heavier axle.




Yea. I may go with a dexter axle if I even replace it. They have replaceable spindles and look like a better design to me. We didn’t put much pressure on the frame with the jack. Just enough to hold a bit of force on the top of the wheel while we hit the bottom of the wheel with the Hammer.


Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 08 May 2021 at 3:47pm
Dexter does have a better reputation than Lippert, nothing wrong with changing over. But then there haven't been near as many Dexter axles used on rpods as Lippert ones so I'm not sure if they would actually do any better. I would be suspicious if any 3500 lb rated axle on anything other than the lightest rpods, considering the negative effect of the inboard frame mounts.

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1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold


Posted By: Blitzkrieg3002
Date Posted: 12 May 2021 at 4:12pm
So just wanted to update.  We did get word back from Lippert.  They stated they would not cove the axle under warranty.  I told him i'm going to smack it a few times with a hammer and hope for the best!!! lol

Got a long 2 week trip coming up with my wife and our two children.  I feel pretty confident on the fix for now and am going to go camping!  wish us luck and thanks all for the help.



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