Now I'm stumped. I've gone from the fridge working poorly to not working at all.  I also hit the reset button multiple times to see if that would have an effect. Gas at the stove is excellent and the furnace fires up. I'm wondering if maybe the gas valve was going bad and when I removed it, it went belly up. If so, I may be up a creek because it appears that item is no longer manufactured. 

Help!

Probably should mention that I removed the gas valve just to take a look at it and because I couldn't help myself.  (mikey)

What exactly did you do when you removed the gas valve?  Did you take it apart and as JR mentioned did you put the wires back as they originally were or could you have possibly reversed those 2 wires?  Seems like the issue cold be pointing to that gas valve?  Check out a you tube video on checking the electrical output on that valve when 12v is applied to it.

Originally posted by StephenH You may be right if the green ceramic piece was also an electrical insulator. Unfortunately, I can only speculate. I don't know if the Dometic site has an exploded diagram and parts list for the valve. You could search there.

+1  Since your electrode gap is fine, I would agree with StephenH, a cracked electrical insulator is highly suspect.  Hopefully you can get that part, and if not, go to an RV store and they may have one you can remove off of another discarded fridge that they have lying around in their dump pile.

Scroll down until you see the Service Manual. That will have a breakdown of the parts but it does not break down the gas control valve. It may have other information that will help you figure out what is happening though.

Stephen: I tried that link but it wouldn't work for me. Looked on the manualslib site and could only find installation and operators manuals, no service manual.

Try this link instead.

As for the probes, one of them is the electrode. The other would sit in the flame. That is the flame detector. If it does not detect a flame, it would cut off the gas to prevent a gas build-up and potential fire. I don't have the RM-8501 any more so I can't check. However, you should be able to trace the wire and see which one is the electrode for ignition and which is the flame detector. If I'm looking at the pictures correctly, the ignitor has the copper-colored wire and the ionization (flame) detector has a black wire. Be sure both of those are plugged into the correct location.

https://www.amazon.com/WFCO-WF-8950L2-MBA-Replacement-Converter-Lithium-Ion/dp/B07TZNCFG4 - https://www.amazon.com/WFCO-WF-8950L2-MBA-Replacement-Converter-Lithium-Ion/dp/B07TZNCFG4

At this point, I'm on the fence about what my next move with the refrigerator will be. I'm 60 miles away from a big town so calling an RV guy to come check it over isn't practical. My gut tells me the gas control valve is shot, and like I said, at $450 I'm reluctant to throw money at that. Mulling over investing in a compressor fridge and powering it with my current two 6 volt battery setup for the remainder of the year, then biting the bullet for the LiFePo battery next spring. Looks like that entails some upgrades that I'm not comfortable doing, so I'd probably haul it in to Missoula and turn it over to an expert. There are some independent RV repair guys there who come highly recommended.

That's my current train of thought, but that is subject to change.

For example, this one does not have the mounting frame pictured, so it likely is not included in the package.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/325298713431?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338590836&toolid=10044&customid=4f4e3de6-8dba-44ca-b590-d33b73a71cbb - https://www.ebay.com/itm/325298713431?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338590836&toolid=10044&customid=4f4e3de6-8dba-44ca-b590-d33b73a71cbb

It also specifically states in the description, "No warranty."

The one I purchased cost more, but the warranty was worth the extra cost. 

Edit:  I fixed the link in this post and in my prior post. If you go to the West Marine link, it shows one with the flange so you can see the difference.

Mike, when removing your old fridge hopefully you won't have the same problem I did.  There are 2 screws holding it in place on each vertical side (total 4 screws) just inside the door.  Two came out nice and easy, however the other 2 were stripped inside the wood and my only recourse that I could figure out was to take a hacksaw blade, move the fridge sideways just enough to get the width of the blade into and by hand cut the bolts, pretty time intensive.  After getting a sore and numb hand after 5 minutes on the first bolt I got smart and attached a pair of vice grips to the end of the blade.  Still took about 30 minutes to get those 4 bolts out.  

Also, once everything is disconnected it really helps to have someone from the outside pushing the fridge in while you are pulling on the inside, the gasket kind of holds it in place and by wiggling it side to side it will come out with relative ease.

Jato, thanks for the warning. I've got a feeling this is going to be an adventure.

Good for you!  I was able to do the same and was able to help out other's who were having issues.  Nearly everything on mine was parted out except for the boiler system, exterior door and shelves.  Was able to send out the freezer and clips, solenoid-gas, igniter and related lines, mother board and associated electronics for the price of shipping.

I also opted to forgo the LiFePO4 batteries. Living in MT and camping a lot in the fall I just didn't want to risk battery failure in cold weather. Might have avoided that by moving the battery inside, but coupled with having to change out the converters I decided the simpler alternative was to go with a pair of AGM 6-volt batteries. 

Now my question is can I cover the louvres on the outside vents? The fridge is so deep that sealing it tightly looks to be impossible. Since I'm no longer dealing with propane, flame and exhaust is it safe and practical to to seal the vents against dust? I was thinking of covering them with Gorilla tape. 

The fridge isn't screwed into place if I need to slide it out and try a different approach.

I really appreciate all the help and input from my original post. This is a great online community.