stupid question...amps?
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Topic: stupid question...amps?
Posted By: drdrew
Subject: stupid question...amps?
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2011 at 1:29pm
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when reserving sites, how many amps do i need? 20,30,50? can i get too many amps and not be able to hook up?
------------- 172T |
Replies:
Posted By: pmjensen
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2011 at 1:47pm
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Normally either 30 or 50. If it is a 50 amp hookup you will Need an adapter http://rvbasics.com/techtips/50-to-30-amp-adapter.html - http://rvbasics.com/techtips/50-to-30-amp-adapter.html . I pickuped one at our local Walmart, although not all Walmarts carry RV Stuff. If it's a 30 just plug it into the power post.
------------- 2011 R-176 Nuestro Pod 2014 Silverado |
Posted By: Outbound
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2011 at 2:22pm
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Your trailer is wired for 30 amp service, but you can choose any of the three sites you've mentioned. However, you may need an adapter. 20 amp sites - and the same thing for 15 amp sites too - have standard outlets like you have at home that you'd plug a lamp into. Using an adapter ( http://www.rvpartscenter.com/ProductDetail.asp?PID=39931&SID=14&DID=65&CID=222 - like this one ), you can plug your trailer in. You will have to be a little careful with the high-wattage appliances, tho, otherwise you'll throw a breaker at the campground post. If you want to use the micro/convection oven, you'll have to turn off the A/C first and vice-versa. If a hairdryer and curling iron are plugged in, the A/C and microwave must be turned off. But, its not much of a sacrifice to hook up to 15 amp service. For 30 amp sites, just plug in and you're set. On 50 amp sites, its common to find power posts that have 30 amp plugs too (plus 15 amp); just plug in and you're set. However, you can't expect to always find a 30 amp plug on a 50 amp site, so you may need an adapter ( http://www.rvpartscenter.com/ProductDetail.asp?PID=39932&SID=14&DID=65&CID=222 - like this one ). When buying an adapter, I suggest that you stay away from the wall-wart style ( http://www.rvpartscenter.com/ProductDetail.asp?PID=31520&SID=14&DID=65&CID=222 - like this one or http://www.rvpartscenter.com/ProductDetail.asp?PID=41257&SID=14&DID=65&CID=222 - this one ) and stick with dogbone-style ones like I've linked above. The cheap wall-warts tend to heat up with heavy use of the A/C. The dogbones hang neater of the campground plug and are less likely to pull out naturally or should someone trip on the power cord.
------------- Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150 |
Posted By: drdrew
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2011 at 2:52pm
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thank you for the helpful info!
------------- 172T |
Posted By: TerryM
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2011 at 7:06pm
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Without an adapter you can't plug into 50amps so there is nothing to worry about. Its mistake proof. Terry ------------- RP-175 W/Lift Kit 2011 Ford F-150 4X4 Saint Augustine, FL: The first permanent European settlement in the USA: 1565 |
Posted By: TerryM
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2011 at 7:12pm
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I just thought of something. With an adapter you can plug into 15/20amp house style outlets. It is always a good idea to have one of them. You can run most things in the camper with that amperage. Not the AC but all your lights, TV, radio etc. I THINK you can even run the microwave as long as you don't have much else running. Terry ------------- RP-175 W/Lift Kit 2011 Ford F-150 4X4 Saint Augustine, FL: The first permanent European settlement in the USA: 1565 |
Posted By: drdrew
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2011 at 8:59pm
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Thanks already got one of dem :) ------------- 172T |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2011 at 9:44pm
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Here is a thread discussing the wattage of the various 'pod appliances. A 15 amp outlet can support a 1800 watt load and a 20 amp outlet can do 2400 - but ideally you should stay below that somewhat. http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1309&KW=&PID=11793&title=measured-wattage-of-pod-appliances#11793 - http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1309&KW=&PID=11793&title=measured-wattage-of-pod-appliances#11793 ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual 
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Posted By: drdrew
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2011 at 9:53am
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okay a couple more stupid ?'s... does "full hook up" mean there is a sewer or something like that? also when a site says it has water, do i need to have my own connector hose to get the water into the pod? thanks again as always... ------------- 172T |
Posted By: Goose
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2011 at 11:06am
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Yes, you do need your own water hose to hook up at a site. It is a good idea to have two hoses, one that you use only for your fresh water and one to flush your sewer lines. No question is stupid. Full hook up is water, electric and sewer. Goose ------------- Mother Goose's Caboose..2011 RP171..07 Grand Cherokee 
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Posted By: drdrew
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2011 at 11:26am
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okay! more then!...just get a short garden hose for hook up? or is there a special RV hose i need? i think the rpod came with the sewer hose, no?
------------- 172T |
Posted By: TerryM
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2011 at 11:35am
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For your drinking water you need the white hose. You can get them at any RV dealer or Wall-Mart. I have a short one, about 5', then a 20' one. Sometimes sites have the hookups spaced out a little. You also should get some disposable gloves to use when you are handling the sewer hookup. WARNING: I have seen people push their sewer hose onto the water hookup to flush it out! The next person to use the water WILL get contaminated water. I have a spray bottle of bleach water and spray the water hookup as soon as I get to a site. The water is hooked up last then. Terry ------------- RP-175 W/Lift Kit 2011 Ford F-150 4X4 Saint Augustine, FL: The first permanent European settlement in the USA: 1565 |
Posted By: drdrew
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2011 at 12:51pm
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ew. gross....good call on the bleach water... okay i will look for the white hose, but was just at wal mart and cant find it there...no biggie i'll find one... but now i'm confused about the flushing....i thought that happens from the inside...if you spray water into your sewer hose wont it come right back out? is there a seperate flush hose i am unaware of? my thought was drain the black...then the grey to flush it out? do people do an additional rinse or something afterwards? ------------- 172T |
Posted By: drdrew
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2011 at 1:42pm
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ooh, and while i am at it...what about pressure reducers to the water line, and filters?
------------- 172T |
Posted By: drdrew
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2011 at 1:44pm
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argh...and now i am hose shopping...what size...1/2 or 5/8?
------------- 172T |
Posted By: Outbound
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2011 at 2:24pm
Either will do. I'm happy with my 1/2" - the water flow seems to be fine. Also, buy a brass (or stainless steel) water pressure regulator, not a plastic one. Don't forget: the regulator is attached to the campground spiggot, then your hose to your trailer. ------------- Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150 |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2011 at 9:19pm
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For flushing out the water system at home your garden hose is ok, just let it run a minute before hooking it up - most garden hoses have lead in them which leaches into the standing water. After a minute you are ok. But this is why you don't want to use a garden hose when camping because the water sits around in the hot sun all day. White hoses do not have lead. I tried a pressure regulator and it dropped my pressure to an unusable level at most campgrounds so I don't use it anymore. We don't bother with filters, we just take a gallon or two of water from home for drinking and teeth brushing. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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