Sacrificial Anode Replacement
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Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
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URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=3000
Printed Date: 28 May 2024 at 12:08am
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Topic: Sacrificial Anode Replacement
Posted By: The E Train
Subject: Sacrificial Anode Replacement
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2012 at 3:49pm
Here is a pic of my sacrificial anode after the first year of use. My unit was manufactured in Nov. 2011, purchased new in June 2012. Do I need to replace the anode?
 ------------- "What happens in the POD, stays in the POD." 2002 Dakota (pulling a) 2012 R-Pod 176T |
Replies:
Posted By: HuronSailor
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2012 at 4:21pm
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I would, definitely. ------------- .: Mark & Beth :: Silverado 5.3L :: 2018 rPod 180 :. |
Posted By: Camper Bob
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2012 at 4:38pm
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According to my RV tech, you do not have to replace your anode until all of the sacrified metal is gone. That being said, do what you are most comfortable doing. After all, a new anode is about $14. Safe Travels. ------------- Camper Bob and Camper Sue Gracie the Wonder Dog (12 LB. Mini Dachshund) 2013 Rpod 171HRE(ORPod) 2016 Lance 1685 2015 Nissan Pathfinder |
Posted By: coopercdrkey
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2012 at 5:23pm
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For what it's worth, I vote to replace. ------------- Bob and Joyce Jennifer and Baxter, the Campin' Cocker Spaniels RP 177 "Key Pod" Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT / Z71 |
Posted By: Footslogger03
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2012 at 6:33pm
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I'd replace it myself ...but I am curious why the deteriorization appears to be concentrated near the outboard end of the anode. I have a 20012 model 177 and bought it in October of last year. I pulled the anode a few weeks ago and it had some pot holes here and there but well distributed along the shaft. Mine is still good to go ...but I bought a 2-pack of replacement Suburban magnesium anodes anyway, just to have on hand.
'Slogger ------------- Livin' the Dream ...'Slogger |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2012 at 6:52pm
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Still looks serviceable to me, the recommendation from Suburban is to replace after it is 75% gone. That looks more like 25% gone.
------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual 
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Posted By: Outbound
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2012 at 9:31pm
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Bah! Its perfectly fine. At that rate, you've got years of life in it yet. ------------- Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150 |
Posted By: The E Train
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2012 at 10:54pm
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I agree with 'Slogger, why is the end near the threads that way? Is it designed like that to keep the magnesium (assuming it is Mg) away from the tank wall? Or is it just "sacrificed?" ------------- "What happens in the POD, stays in the POD." 2002 Dakota (pulling a) 2012 R-Pod 176T |
Posted By: TIDALWAVE
Date Posted: 08 Oct 2012 at 8:57am
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The female threaded connection on my heater appears to be steel-iron. Then galvanic action would be concentrated near the wall end of the rod. I replace my anode rods before the central 'wire' shows. One rod broke the central wire and rattled around in the heater until I could get a 'grabber' tool into the heater and carefully pulled the remaining piece of the rod out of the heater. I also found out that the rod would leave a grey magnesium sludge in the tank. The sludge would then flush out in the spring clogging the sink and shower faucets. So after removing the rod, I flush out the heater tank through the rod opening. Then I replace the anode rod each fall with a simple plastic plug which keeps debris out and creatures from crawling into the heater. ------------- TIDALWAVE |
Posted By: Goose
Date Posted: 08 Oct 2012 at 10:53pm
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I do like TIDALWAVE, take the spray nozzel for the hose and clean the tank of any garbage that is in there, dry and close it up in the fall. I intend to replace the rod in the spring as it was at about 2/3's good at the start of this year after two years of use. Goose ------------- Mother Goose's Caboose..2011 RP171..07 Grand Cherokee 
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Posted By: The E Train
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2012 at 11:07pm
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Thanx for all the advice... Can't wait for spring! ------------- "What happens in the POD, stays in the POD." 2002 Dakota (pulling a) 2012 R-Pod 176T |
Posted By: bc matell
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2012 at 5:19pm
I have a 2011 R 177. We bought it THIS Aug17th and have camped in it two times. Once for 3 days the other time 9 days.That said take a look at the water heater anode! (if I can upload pic) How can this last another spring and summer?? O.K. having trouble uploading pic will try again ------------- TV 2012 Toyota Tacoma 6 cyl Misha the Lab Loving life and living it! |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2012 at 6:13pm
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I think there is a maximum size, so make sure the picture size is below that.
------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: marwayne
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2012 at 10:13pm
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You have to shrink the pic. before posting.
------------- If you want something done right, do it yourself. 2011 RP172, 2016 Tundra 5.7 Litre, Ltd. |
Posted By: bc matell
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2012 at 9:37am
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Mine looks like the above pic but worse! We have camped 2 times once for 3 days the other for 9 and the pod is new!! Should I contact the dealer?? Any advise? Thanks! ------------- TV 2012 Toyota Tacoma 6 cyl Misha the Lab Loving life and living it! |
Posted By: bc matell
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2012 at 9:39am
O.K. trying again for the pic. ------------- TV 2012 Toyota Tacoma 6 cyl Misha the Lab Loving life and living it! |
Posted By: bc matell
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2012 at 9:39am
 Is that big enough!!!!!!!! LOL------------- TV 2012 Toyota Tacoma 6 cyl Misha the Lab Loving life and living it! |
Posted By: TIDALWAVE
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2012 at 10:52am
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bc-matell: The anode rod is doing its job! The magnesium in the rod is used up rather than other metallic parts in the heater. The amount of magnesium used up depends on the chemistry of the water in the heater. I have had water in the heater which corroded the rod within days while other water fills did not appreciably corrode the rod at all. It all depends on where you get the water.
Anode rods cost me about $10-15 each...which is a lot cheaper than having to replace the water heater. ------------- TIDALWAVE |
Posted By: P&M
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2012 at 11:06am
(note to self -- get a replacement or two to have on hand) ------------- P & M ... and Comet too! 2012 171 -- The Monkey Pod 2018 Ram 2500 |
Posted By: Footslogger03
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2012 at 12:04pm
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Just a note regarding anodes ...since I did a LOT of research on them this past year. The replacement anodes for the Suburban Hot Water Heaters in our Pods come in 2 varieties ....Aluminum and Magnesium.
The Aluminum anodes are less expensive and easier to find - - but they tend to deteriorate at a faster rate. The Magnesium anodes (like the one that came with a your new POD) are typically a bit more expensive but generally last longer. Another factor is that this so-called "sacraficial" metal ends up being mixed with the hot water supply in your RV. Most oif us only use the hot water to wash our hands or dishes ...but for those of you who use water from the Pod hot water heater as a drinking source you should read up on the effects of aluminum vs. magnesium ingestion. After all of the reading I did my choice was to go Magnesium. Just thought I'd share that ... 'Slogger ------------- Livin' the Dream ...'Slogger |
Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2012 at 12:54pm
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I think it's also worth mentioning that the sacrificial anode rod is not specific to RV water heaters. If you have a hot water tank at home (most of us do), it also has a similar rod. It should be inspected and replaced as well or the tank might corrode and leak while you're out camping in your pod
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