Anode Rod
Printed From: R-pod Owners Forum
Category: R-pod Discussion Forums
Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
Forum Discription: Ask maintenance questions, share your podmods (modifications) and helpful tips
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=3457
Printed Date: 14 May 2024 at 9:52pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 9.64 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Anode Rod
Posted By: bc matell
Subject: Anode Rod
Date Posted: 05 May 2013 at 6:04pm
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The pod is not a year old yet. QUESTION-----The anode rod from the hot water tank is what I am having a problem with. I have it threaded half way in but then it gets VERY hard to screw any further. Have tryed many times. I don't want to force it. Any clue to what is wrong??? I don't want to go to the dealer yet. Any help is always greatl  ------------- TV 2012 Toyota Tacoma 6 cyl Misha the Lab Loving life and living it! |
Replies:
Posted By: dsmiths
Date Posted: 05 May 2013 at 7:14pm
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That probably is normal. Mine will make about 2 turns and starts to get snug. make sure you clean threads well with wire brush. wrap Teflon tape around threads on the anode rod about 2 or 3 times (put the tape on clock wise). hand start the anode in. after about 2 turns it will began to tighten. tighten about 1/3 to 1/2 more turn with wrench. Do Not over tighten. turn on water and check for leaks. you'll be ok. just don't over tighten. ------------- Dane and Donna Smith 2011 RP-172 2008 Chevrolet Trailblazer 4X4 lift kit prodigy wireless brake controller |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 05 May 2013 at 7:30pm
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As above.. Clean threads, new teflon, screw in until tight. Check for leaks. Camp. ------------- |
Posted By: Keith-N-Dar
Date Posted: 05 May 2013 at 8:27pm
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The plug is pipe thread. Pipe thread is tapered so it will run tight and not leak. As said, add tefflon tape, make tight, check for leaks, camp.
------------- Keith-N-Dar Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers) 2011 R-Pod 177 2010 Ford F-150 |
Posted By: Outbound
Date Posted: 06 May 2013 at 6:42pm
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Use a brass brush to clean the threads - I bought a toothbrush-shaped one at the dollar store that works great. Also, my plug doesn't screw flush into the heater; it sits proud about 3/8". That said, YMMV ------------- Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150 |
Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 06 May 2013 at 9:06pm
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Pipe threads are meant to get tight. TT 
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Posted By: gappman
Date Posted: 11 May 2013 at 1:01am
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I pulled mine out and put a drain petcock in its place. ------------- Gary Piazza www.garypiazza.com |
Posted By: Keith-N-Dar
Date Posted: 11 May 2013 at 7:07am
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In two seasons mine is half gone. I would rather have the sacrificial rod melting instead of the heater.
------------- Keith-N-Dar Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers) 2011 R-Pod 177 2010 Ford F-150 |
Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 11 May 2013 at 7:39am
| mine is half gone as well...........do you know if it basically dissolves, or are there actually chunks of it inside the heater? |
Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 11 May 2013 at 11:31am
Not a good idea! Google anode rod a little bit and find out why water heater manufacturers put these annoying little consumables in their water heaters in the first place. They aren't necessary in the short run but they have a major impact on the life of your water heater. Considering that most, if not all, of the opportunity for water heater failure is while you're on the road away from home, the inconvenience of fixing or replacing a water heater probably outweighs the expense, which will be way more than the cost of an anode rod. TT |
Posted By: gappman
Date Posted: 11 May 2013 at 3:14pm
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I did this at the recommendation of my parents who have been RV'ing most of their lives. No issues with water heaters for them and I drain the thing thoroughly when I return home. My trips are hardly longer than 3 days at a time anyway. ------------- Gary Piazza www.garypiazza.com |
Posted By: TIDALWAVE
Date Posted: 11 May 2013 at 6:30pm
 Some of the anode rod will dissolve in the water. However, the loss of anode metal is not usually symmetrical so rod material will may break off into the heater from road vibration, etc. I have found that it is a good idea to flush out the water lines by removing the aerators from the faucet outlets, and flushing some water through the lines at the beginning and end of each season. I also wash out the aerators, if I notice some whitish sediment in/on the aerators. The amount of rod loss depends on the chemistry of the water used. I have had rods last multiple years and then barely last one season. A rod that is nearly dissolved away is demonstrating the protection it has given to your heater. Replacing a $15 rod is certainly cheaper than replacing a water heater tank. Over the last couple of seasons, I have been draining the heater tank, if I do not expect to use the Pod for an extended period of time. The longer the time water sits in the tank, the more loss of rod material. I make sure that I fill the tank before I leave for the next trip...I don't want the tank to burn out because it was empty when I turn on the gas or the 110 house current ------------- TIDALWAVE |
Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 11 May 2013 at 6:48pm
| rog on all that |