Battery charge from TV
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Category: R-pod Discussion Forums
Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
Forum Discription: Ask maintenance questions, share your podmods (modifications) and helpful tips
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=3460
Printed Date: 14 May 2024 at 10:42pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 9.64 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Battery charge from TV
Posted By: EasyriderSLC
Subject: Battery charge from TV
Date Posted: 07 May 2013 at 10:09am
| I am sure this question has been asked and also answered on this site but I cannot seem to find it. I am wondering if I am able to trickle charge my 13 RP 172 while towing from my 12 Jeep Grand Cherokee? I am using the 5 pin plug and we are planning an extended vacation in the coming weeks. Again thanks in advance to any response, this site is awesome for us "new campers". |
Replies:
Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 07 May 2013 at 10:35am
| Are you sure it's a 5-pin plug? If so, then there is no charge line and therefore your trailer won't charge. You need to use a 7-pin plug to get the charge line. |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 07 May 2013 at 10:36am
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The 5 pin wiring spec does not provide a 12v feed to the trailer. EDIT.. Are you sure you have a 5 pin.. I really can't imagine a new truck not having either 4 pin or 7 pin, usually both. (all of mine have since the late 90's) EDIT AGAIN... Jeep says if you have a tow package, you have a 4 and 7 pin. The Pod has a 7 pin.. ------------- |
Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 07 May 2013 at 10:37am
| In fact, now that I think about it... the 5-pin plug doesn't even have a brake line. What brake controller are you using and how is it connected to the trailer? |
Posted By: EasyriderSLC
Date Posted: 07 May 2013 at 12:09pm
| I will have to double check when I get home. But from what you are saying, if it is the 4 and 7 and I am using the 7 then it should charge the Pod as I am in transit? |
Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 07 May 2013 at 12:10pm
| Are you guys saying that with a 7 pin plug you do get a trickle charge or may be capable of modifying something to get it? I don't think I do on my 10' F-150. It would be nice if this is possible and an easy fix/solution. |
Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 07 May 2013 at 12:14pm
| If you have a 7-pin connector and it's properly setup, then it will charge the pod. The rate of charge is entirely dependent on your car's setup. In my case it's like the pod battery and the car battery are connected, so they charge together (fairly quickly). It's more than what I would call a "trickle". When my car is running and I plug in the pod after a long trip I can hear the engine tone change, so it's definitely putting a load on the alternator. |
Posted By: Outbound
Date Posted: 07 May 2013 at 12:46pm
Maybe. The charge line must be connected (and fused) to your vehicle's battery. This is often not the case with many manufacturer-installed trailer connectors and occasionally not the case with aftermarket installations. A charge line is not necessary for safe use of the trailer, so some may skimp on it. The wire from your vehicle's battery to the connector must be of sufficient gauge (I'd say at least 8ga) to carry enough power (its a fair distance and resistance in the wiew becomes a factor) to be of use. ------------- Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150 |
Posted By: EasyriderSLC
Date Posted: 07 May 2013 at 1:11pm
|
The feedback on this site is awesome, thank you all. I will go home and check the connector and see if their is a gauge coming from my car battery to the hitch. Thanks again.
|
Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 07 May 2013 at 1:56pm
You can also test it with a multimeter across the upper right pin (charge) and the lower left pin (ground). It should be 12+ volts. Here's a diagram: |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 07 May 2013 at 2:26pm
As far as I know every Ford truck since the 90's, if equipped with the tow package has this capability. It should require the placement of a fuse in the main block, and a relay in the kick panel. Our last 3 ford SUV's came with a "kit" in the truck that included a pigtail for the brake controller, the fuse, and the relay, along with instructions.. In a little baggy, either in the glove box, or in the rear stowage area. '99 Explorer Limited '03 Excursion XLT '04 Expedition EB All you have to do is plug in the bargman, start the truck, put a DMM across the battery posts.. should see +13.5 volts.. ------------- |
Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 07 May 2013 at 3:18pm
| As soon as you mentioned the bag in the glove box I went out to the truck; you are absolutely right! Will this actually put a charge on the pod battery, or basically maintain the charge? |
Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 07 May 2013 at 3:33pm
| It will charge it, but at idle the alternator doesn't put out much current. When you're actually driving it will charge more. |
Posted By: Keith-N-Dar
Date Posted: 07 May 2013 at 5:58pm
If you have the factory tow package on your 10 F150 you have the power wire connected, just like mine. I do know people that wanted that connection lifted or switched so the trailer wouldn't pull from the truck battery when the truck is off, but from the factory it is connected to the 7 pin connector. The bag (relay and fuse) is for adding an aftermarket brake controller. It doesn't have anything to do with the hot line in the connector.
------------- Keith-N-Dar Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers) 2011 R-Pod 177 2010 Ford F-150 |
Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 07 May 2013 at 6:06pm
This is a good point. I added a relay to mine so that the charge line is only connected when the engine is running. It was cheap and easy to add.
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Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 07 May 2013 at 7:33pm
Don't think so.. the fuse is to protect the charging circuit, and the relay is to tell the truck NOT to drain it's battery by sending 12v to the trailer when the engine is off. Been there, done that a whole bunch of times. Neighbor paid to have her brake controller installed, and that was all the truck did until I installed the relay and fuse. this was about two weeks ago on a '09 F250. ------------- |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 07 May 2013 at 9:25pm
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A tip to help ensure you'll get a charge on the pod's battery going down the road - use the gas mode on the fridge instead of the 12 volt mode. The fridge will pull over 10 amps through that charge/power pin on the Bargeman, causing a voltage drop and therefore less (or no) charge on the pod's battery, especially if it is already low. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual 
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Posted By: dsmiths
Date Posted: 07 May 2013 at 9:45pm
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I like Techntrek use the gas mode on the fridge while enroute. I have heard people say, but if your in a wreck there might be a gas leak. Yeah with the tank on the front and gas lines running to the stove, furnace, fridge, water heater there might be a leak, but there is a check valve on the tank that will not allow the gas to blow out at a high rate. The fridge on our 172 gets good and cold on gas, and uses very little propane to do so. ------------- Dane and Donna Smith 2011 RP-172 2008 Chevrolet Trailblazer 4X4 lift kit prodigy wireless brake controller |
Posted By: Keith-N-Dar
Date Posted: 07 May 2013 at 9:48pm
|
[
[/QUOTE] Don't think so.. the fuse is to protect the charging circuit, and the relay is to tell the truck NOT to drain it's battery by sending 12v to the trailer when the engine is off. Been there, done that a whole bunch of times. Neighbor paid to have her brake controller installed, and that was all the truck did until I installed the relay and fuse. this was about two weeks ago on a '09 F250. [/QUOTE] I don't plan to argue about it, but the owners manual for my truck confirms what I said. So do the instructions on the bag. And from the start my 12V was hot to the trailer. I still have the bag and. contents. I had the the factory brake controller installed on mine. Maybe 09 250s are different. Nuff said on this. Have a good evening. ------------- Keith-N-Dar Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers) 2011 R-Pod 177 2010 Ford F-150 |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 07 May 2013 at 10:25pm
Don't think so.. the fuse is to protect the charging circuit, and the relay is to tell the truck NOT to drain it's battery by sending 12v to the trailer when the engine is off. Been there, done that a whole bunch of times. Neighbor paid to have her brake controller installed, and that was all the truck did until I installed the relay and fuse. this was about two weeks ago on a '09 F250. [/QUOTE] I don't plan to argue about it, but the owners manual for my truck confirms what I said. So do the instructions on the bag. And from the start my 12V was hot to the trailer. I still have the bag and. contents. I had the the factory brake controller installed on mine. Maybe 09 250s are different. Nuff said on this. Have a good evening. [/QUOTE]Not arguing.. just stating as did you, what I have seen and done.. It could be yours is different because of the factory controller...? ------------- |
Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 08 May 2013 at 12:41am
Sorry to always be the one to disagree with you, but with properly sized wires you shouldn't lose more than 0.25V. So as long as your alternator is putting out over 14V then you're still charging even with the fridge on. And most alternators put out 14.2-14.5V, so it shouldn't be a problem. Of course it will be less charge as you mentioned, but still an option if you prefer the safety of turning off your gas down the road. If you do decide to use LP mode TURN IT OFF when refueling. It is an ignition source.
|
Posted By: Keith-N-Dar
Date Posted: 08 May 2013 at 5:12am
I don't plan to argue about it, but the owners manual for my truck confirms what I said. So do the instructions on the bag. And from the start my 12V was hot to the trailer. I still have the bag and. contents. I had the the factory brake controller installed on mine. Maybe 09 250s are different. Nuff said on this. Have a good evening. [/QUOTE]Not arguing.. just stating as did you, what I have seen and done.. It could be yours is different because of the factory controller...? [/QUOTE] I hd the dealer add the factory controller after I bought the vehicle. I measured the power out the plug when I got home the first day, before the controller was installed. ------------- Keith-N-Dar Boris & Betty (Boston Terriers) 2011 R-Pod 177 2010 Ford F-150 |
Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 08 May 2013 at 7:53am
| wow. according to the instructions in the bag which contains the relay and fuse; it is for the battery charge system which is a 10 gauge wire with a maximum allowable current of 11.5A. it also states that the it is hot with key in run mode. |
Posted By: bhamster
Date Posted: 08 May 2013 at 10:16am
Really? What size is the fuse? I think mine has a 40 amp fuse.
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Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 08 May 2013 at 11:18am
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Sometimes these threads wander.. LOL. But we tow in 12v fridge mode. We also PRE COOL our fridge and contents. So far our longest "get on the road" drive has been 6 hours.. our trailer batteries were at 100% when we got there. When we first got our pod I did a lot of DMM tracking of the batteries/12v system. My guess is, when it's only maintaining the temperature, the fridge cooling system doesn't actually run all that much. We are doing a one shot, 8+ hour pull to NC next month, I intend to some monitoring on that trip. ------------- |
Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 08 May 2013 at 5:35pm
| oh ya crank the fridge up prior; froze food in the fridge two weeks ago, always turn on high to start; fuze is B630; 30 amp i assume, i don't see any diff in temp between gas and battery when traveling; longest round 8 hours |
Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 08 May 2013 at 5:38pm
| meant longest 1 way- 8 hours |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 09 May 2013 at 10:00pm
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I precool and often use the 12 volt mode on the road (unless I'm going to be dry camping, then I travel on gas so I don't have to change in-camp), but I know my charge line is big enough. If my battery is full. My suggestion was a rule of thumb if you aren't sure or your battery is low. Remember the choke point is the ground wire. Everything on the camper ends up going through that - running lights, battery charging, fridge, brakes, brake lights. That is where the voltage drop will ultimately come from even if your +12 volt charge line is sized right. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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