Battery Not Charging
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Category: R-pod Discussion Forums
Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
Forum Discription: Ask maintenance questions, share your podmods (modifications) and helpful tips
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=3748
Printed Date: 06 May 2024 at 4:28am
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Topic: Battery Not Charging
Posted By: podsuperior
Subject: Battery Not Charging
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2013 at 8:15pm
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We noticed on our last trip that the battery did not seem to be charging on the camper when were towing it. A friend loaned me his volt meter and told me to stick it on the battery terminals of the camper, when the TV was not plugged in it read about 13 volts, when I plugged the TV in and turned it on the battery still read about 13 volts - the same reading - so my understanding is the TV is not charging the battery on the camper?? I checked the inline fuse on the hot wire coming off the TV, and it looked fine. Any recommendations where to start as far as solving this?? Thanks much. ------------- 2011 RPOD 177 - 2017 Tacoma |
Replies:
Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2013 at 8:51pm
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The first question I would ask is: Did it ever work? Was there ever a time when you knew it was charging? That would indicate whether something has changed or it never was right. Your test with the voltmeter seems to confirm the TV is not charging the battery, although I would have expected a slightly lower reading with the TV not running. Assuming you are not connected to shore power and the TT has been sitting for a half hour or so the TT battery should be 12-12.5 volts. When the TV is running and charging the voltage should be 13.5 or higher. It might take a digital voltmeter to see these differences. If you know it was charging sometime in the past I'd check the 7-pin connector on the TV when disconnected from the TT to verify 13.5+ on the charge line when running. If good, make sure the connectors themselves are clean and undamaged. Also check that the on-board power converter charges the battery when plugged in by running the same voltmeter checks on the battery with the TV disconnected.
------------- Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
Posted By: podsuperior
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2013 at 9:21am
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Thanks Charlie - Yes I believe it has been working fine prior to this point. When we travel we run the fridge off battery power typically -I will run it for a few hours, then turn it off for a few hours. Typically when we get to our destination our battery reads full - on our last trip it read 1/3 full. I realize that the fridge sucks a lot of juice, but when I turned the fridge off it didn't appear that the battery recovered at all. When on shore power the converter and everything else seems to be working fine. I will try checking out the connector - Thanks ------------- 2011 RPOD 177 - 2017 Tacoma |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 20 Jul 2013 at 11:46pm
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Look up the wiring diagram for the Bargeman connection online, then verify that the pin that supplies 12 volts shows 12 volts. On some vehicles that is only true when the TV is on. Then make sure the wire that runs to the Bargeman connection is at least 10 gauge wire, not 12 or 14.
------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual 
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Posted By: Outbound
Date Posted: 21 Jul 2013 at 8:35pm
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If the voltage on your vehicle's Bargman connector checks out, you should probably clean the connections (with emery paper) and put some dielectric grease on them for protection from the elements. It may be that you have power, but insufficient amperage to power your fridge (and the fridge is therefore drawing power from your battery). -edit- To avoid confusion when looking at your vehicle's connector and then the r-pod's connector, remember: the pin for the left turn signal is on the driver's (street) side of the vehicle; the pin for the right turn signal is on the passenger's (curb) side of the vehicle. 
------------- Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150 |
Posted By: Sleepless
Date Posted: 22 Jul 2013 at 9:26am
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Great diagrams and they should herlp many on the forum. In years past when I had much larger travel trailers, I would often check various items with the trailer unhitched and a 12 volt battery with short wires attached to the battery terminals. With the battery ground attached to the Bargman connector, I would check the various lighting circuits by attaching the positive battery wire to the appropriate pin on the connector. Very easy check and simplifies finding burned out bulbs. I have also used the auxiliary socket to power back-up lights on trailers. This requires running another wire from the TV and the back of the trailer, both terminating in the Bargman connectors. Thanks again for posting the diagrams. Bob ------------- 2014 R-Pod 178 (OUR POD) 2009 Chevrolet Avalanche |
Posted By: podsuperior
Date Posted: 23 Jul 2013 at 9:01am
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We found a nick in the wire from the battery to the 7 pin connector - so we were not getting power due to that. UHaul did not route the wires very carefully and the last three or four feet were pretty exposed. Fixed the issue. Thanks for the various suggestions. ------------- 2011 RPOD 177 - 2017 Tacoma |
Posted By: Bill-GA
Date Posted: 23 Jul 2013 at 9:36pm
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I've been reading this topic, and wondered about my battery. I took it out of the Pod this winter, put it on a charger I bought -all the little green lights were showing OK ... Thinking all is well. Put it back in the Pod early June. I run on the TV or on shore power so battery is not a big deal except for break-away brakes if needed. Yesterday I left it overnight on its own (no shore power or TV) went out this AM and it's pretty much a DEAD battery. Tonight I plugged into shore power and checked with volt meter and got 15 volts across battery ... And then I thought, gee, I have NEVER checked the battery water level (2 years) - it looks like its a sealed battery???
Finally, I figured it out and pried off the two small covers ... Behold! Six dry cells and i could see the DRY plates down each hole. About 2 1/2 quarts of distilled water later, using my wife's turkey baster, I pushed the two covers back on. Still on shore power. Did I fry the battery? Did I boil off the water this last winter? Was it dry all along? Is it reasonable to think it will recover? Do I probably need a new deep cycle battery? Any opinions are welcome. ------------- Bill & Bev 13 yr old dachshund 'Elsa' 2010 RP-176T (tent & slide-out) 2011 Toyota Tundra 2WD TV |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2013 at 1:16am
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Sounds like the charger boiled it dry, and unfortunately once the plates are exposed to air that part of them is no good. Time for a new battery, just check it more often if you are going to leave it on a trickle charger until you learn how often you'll really need to check it and top it off.
------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: Sleepless
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2013 at 7:31am
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techntrek is probably correct. However, I have sometimes salvaged marine batteries that have been very low on water. Fill the cells with distilled water and put the battery on a charger. It may come back to life although it may not have the capacity it once had. It is probably ruined, but it is worth a try. Also, if you charge the battery, use a float type charger such as the Battery Tender or Battery Minder. These will turn off automatically once the battery is fully charged, but will turn back on if your battery becomes somewhat discharged. We use these on our 12 volt shrimp lights after a night of shrimping and never have to worry about over-charging or forgetting to turn off the charger. A trickle charger can and will over-charge a battery if left unattended. One last thought. If you checked the battery voltage while connected to shore power, the 15 volt reading is more than likely the output being received from the trailer charging system. To find the battery voltage, isolate the battery first, then check its voltage. That voltage will give you an indication if one or more cells are dead. As techntrek said, you more than likely will need a new battery. Bob ------------- 2014 R-Pod 178 (OUR POD) 2009 Chevrolet Avalanche |
Posted By: Seanl
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2013 at 8:23am
I used to to this with Motorcycle batteries at a dealership. We recovered about 1 in five batteries. Sean ------------- Sean, 2011 Rpod RP-173,2009 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain Edition 
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Posted By: Bill-GA
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2013 at 3:52pm
I was using a new Battery Minder but I'm not sure what condition the battery was in to start with. I will check battery disconnected, tomorrow. Where would I buy a "Deep Cycle" (?) battery? Is there a certain rating I need? Thanks, Bill ------------- Bill & Bev 13 yr old dachshund 'Elsa' 2010 RP-176T (tent & slide-out) 2011 Toyota Tundra 2WD TV |
Posted By: Sleepless
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2013 at 5:51pm
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I always buy the Group 27 deep cycle batteries sold by Walmart for all my marine and RV needs. Most tire dealers and auto parts stores sell deep cycle batteries, but I buy from Walmart because of their prices. I am sure others will express other favorite sources of brands, but most of the people in my circles buy from Walmart, too. Just be sure to purchase Group 27 rather than the smaller Group 24 size. Bob ------------- 2014 R-Pod 178 (OUR POD) 2009 Chevrolet Avalanche |
Posted By: Bill-GA
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2013 at 8:13pm
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After leaving the battery charging in the Pod with shore power for 24 hrs, I disconnected the ground side of the battery and measured 11.5 volts across the terminals - that's good according to comments above. I opened the two water caps and checked water level - OK. I put the ground back on, disconnected the shore power (TV not connected) and turned on 3 sets of LED lights and running bathroom fan for 10 mins. They all ran/looked great! I did a battery check on inside panel ... All lights on panel - OK. BTW, the charging voltage reported earlier was actually 13.5 V after I zeroed the meter. I'm going to leave battery in OFF position (I have master on/off sw) and measure voltage tomorrow. If that is good, I will do a load test (LEDs & Fan on) and see how long they last. Maybe it isn't toast?
------------- Bill & Bev 13 yr old dachshund 'Elsa' 2010 RP-176T (tent & slide-out) 2011 Toyota Tundra 2WD TV |
Posted By: Sleepless
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2013 at 8:26pm
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If your battery is fully charged, 11.5 volts may possibly be indicative of a bad cell. It should be in the 13 -13.5 volt range. Most auto supply stores, tire stores, etc., will normally test your battery free, just to be safe. Bob ------------- 2014 R-Pod 178 (OUR POD) 2009 Chevrolet Avalanche |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2013 at 10:40pm
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Yeah, 11.5 is a bad reading for a fully charged battery. Normally that voltage says the battery is half full. I guarantee if you do a load test the battery will quickly fail (low voltage). I second the Wal-Mart marine recommendation. I built a 22 kw battery bank (16 batts) about 4 1/2 years ago and their batteries ended up being the cheapest per amp. You can spend 2-3 times as much on a true deep cycle high-end battery but for the number of times most people camp per year - or over 5 years, the typical life of a battery - you'll get more for your money with the marine batts from Wal-Mart. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: Outbound
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2013 at 6:35pm
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Costco's Kirkland brand deep-cycle batteries are also good value for money. When shopping for batteries, make sure it says "Deep Cycle" - for your r-pod, avoid "Marine Starting". The thicker plates in a deep cycle battery will give you more longevity. ------------- Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150 |
Posted By: Bill-GA
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2013 at 10:02pm
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I did my load test on the battery ... 3 LED lights on and fan in bathroom. After 3 hours the panel 'battery check' indicated 3 of 4 lights. After another 4 hours, still was at 3 of 4. Since I use 'only' battery rarely and I'm otherwise connected to TV or shore power, Is it really worth getting a new battery?
After 7 hrs, LED's were a bit less bright, and fan ran a bit slower. ------------- Bill & Bev 13 yr old dachshund 'Elsa' 2010 RP-176T (tent & slide-out) 2011 Toyota Tundra 2WD TV |
Posted By: Sleepless
Date Posted: 25 Jul 2013 at 11:17pm
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Bill, a true load test is conducted by applying a high wattage drain to the battery. I use a 1000 watt load tester and within seconds I can tell the condition of the battery. For example, 13.5 volts may drop as low as 7 or 8 volts. LED lights and the Fantastic fan don't draw all that many volts to reliably test the battery condition. During your test, were you connected to shore power? Assuming you were not, check the voltage at the isolated battery again to see if there was a voltage drop. I have used "damaged" deep cycle batteries to run my shrimping lights or for other non-critical uses, but I never trust them as a primary house battery in a trailer or a boat. Bob ------------- 2014 R-Pod 178 (OUR POD) 2009 Chevrolet Avalanche |