Polar vortex
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Category: R-pod Discussion Forums
Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
Forum Discription: Ask maintenance questions, share your podmods (modifications) and helpful tips
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=5540
Printed Date: 29 Apr 2024 at 9:58am
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Topic: Polar vortex
Posted By: beachmaster
Subject: Polar vortex
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2014 at 12:17pm
HELP we are in zion, utah with plans to go to moab, but will be caught by weather in the teens at night. should we winterize our 2014 179?( our pod will not be in winter weather this winter as it will be stored in tuscon.) head for warmer climes? how much cold at night can our pods plumbing handle and for that matter how much cold can we handle at night in the pod? thanks in advance for any advice. will go to Page, Az for the night and then decide. 
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Replies:
Posted By: RescapePod
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2014 at 1:44pm
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You can stay warm in the 179 with the furnace or even better a elec heater with shore power. The issue is water lines freezing with the temps in the teens. The lines are not freeze protected and the tanks are open on the bottom of the pod. In my opinion I would head south ASAP or if you must stay north then then take 45 min and 2 gall of antifreeze and winterize. Don't forget the hot water tank by pass and removing the electrode. I have a new 179. You have to remove the bed to get to the bypass and the suction hose for the antifreeze. I would go south if at all possible
------------- 2015 R-Pod 179 2013 Chevy K1500 |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2014 at 4:44pm
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I've camped at 10 F several times in our pod (the water system was winterized), you'll be fine from a comfort standpoint. I used a small space heater and left a window and the vent cracked open to control moisture - remember that each person will lose 1 liter of water every 24 hours, or about 1/3 of a liter each night while you sleep. In warm weather that will leave you with a sauna inside, in cold weather condensation on the walls and windows will be extreme, unless you crack the window and vent. As for the pod, teens are way below the point where you should winterize. The rule of thumb is it can go just below freezing for a few hours w/o a problem. However, if you make sure the fresh water tank and both waste tanks are empty, run the water pump a few seconds to be sure the fresh water uptake line is cleared, keep the lower cabinets open to get heat to the water lines, keep the water heater on and keep the furnace or electric heater going so it is a comfortable temperature for you, you'll be ok for a few days until you get where it is warmer. If you are looking at temps like that permanently, or when you are on the road, it is time to winterize right now. See the link in my signature for instructions. It only takes about a gallon of RV antifreeze and about 20 minutes. You don't have to pull the water heater anode rod every year so if you are in a hurry don't worry about it.
------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual 
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Posted By: beachmaster
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2014 at 5:46pm
| thanks for the help...we are in page, az. plenty warm and no freeze in the forecast. incidentally, had heavy cross winds on the way here. the wdh and anti sway was great. glad i followed the advice on here. thanks to all |
Posted By: podrunner
Date Posted: 10 Nov 2014 at 6:45pm
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We camped in Yellowstone in September 2014. Temperature got as low as 23 degrees. The pod was not winterized and suffered no ill effects. It seems to me that the biggest issue is the fresh water line as it exits the tank and travels a short distance outside before reentering the pod.
Enjoy your trip.. ------------- 2010 R Pod 151 2017 4runner 2006 Honda Metropolitan |
Posted By: beachmaster
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2014 at 7:21pm
| an update...the cold chased us almost to the az/ mexico border where we stored our trailer. several old hands advised winterizing so attempted to do but, drained everything, but no line to pump antifreeze?? no bypass valve, no quick disconnect with extra 2 ft line---nothing. will find first forest river dealer and demand fix and stop on our way to mx to finish job. frustrating |
Posted By: headcold
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2014 at 7:40pm
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I've camped in a winterized pod at -2F during hunting trips. Just kept the furnace going at night. It got to 16F in the day. It's so dry in MT that keeping a window cracked is not absolutely necessary, but doing so keeps water from condensing on the windows. |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 18 Nov 2014 at 7:55pm
I think there was a model year, maybe 2013, where they didn't include anything but I think they've gone back. I discovered my Salem doesn't have anything, but the solution is fairly easy, just a scrap length of hose 3 feet long. Loosen the intake hose on the pump and pull it off, then slip the other hose on temporarily. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: kymooses
Date Posted: 19 Nov 2014 at 8:58am
Should be the FloJet water pump then if there is no bypass installed. And often times the accessory hoses are lost, sometimes not put in etc. Keep us posted on how it turns out!
------------- https://calendar.google.com/calendar?cid=cnBvZC5zcG90dGVyQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ - RPod Rallies https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1W1foQXGtrjf8aYly1uh0b-bHPfI&hl=en_US - RPod Owner Map |
Posted By: beachmaster
Date Posted: 20 Nov 2014 at 9:21am
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campers world has a kit for it, so all set to winterize as soon as we are back in az. is it necessary to pull the anode to drain the hot water tank? 1 1/16 socket? hate to be such an idiot...thanks for the help and patience. by the way on our 2014 179, you can,t just loosen the line and pull it off. |
Posted By: kymooses
Date Posted: 20 Nov 2014 at 11:53am
1 1/16th is correct and yes you'd want to drain it. When you drain it you also want to spray a hose or something inside, you can remove a lot of sediment from the bottom of your tank each year when you drain it. Also a good time to check your anode rod. Be sure your hot water switch is in the OFF position before draining the tank. Good luck! ------------- https://calendar.google.com/calendar?cid=cnBvZC5zcG90dGVyQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ - RPod Rallies https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1W1foQXGtrjf8aYly1uh0b-bHPfI&hl=en_US - RPod Owner Map |
Posted By: Luv2Q
Date Posted: 20 Nov 2014 at 12:15pm
How do you know if the anode rod has reached the point of needing to be replaced? Wait until it's rotten? Mine was just a little scarred so I left it alone. And that durn 1-1/16" socket! All my socket tools are 3/8" drive, and I couldn't find the 1-1/16" socket in that size. So now I've started building a 1/2" drive set. And that's not a bad thing, ya know?
 ------------- John & Teri Tundra 5.7L V8 / RP 180 E2 WDH / Integrated controller (POS) replaced by Tekonsha P3 |
Posted By: Seanl
Date Posted: 20 Nov 2014 at 12:53pm
As long as you have some fo the anode material left you are good. When most of it is gone it is time to replace it. Also if the rod becomes encased in white calcium you should replace it because it will not work any more. ------------- Sean, 2011 Rpod RP-173,2009 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain Edition 
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Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 20 Nov 2014 at 7:23pm
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You can drain the WH w/o taking out the anode rod. Open the low point drains and open both sink valves.
------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: CO_PILOT
Date Posted: 26 Nov 2014 at 11:24am
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Here is my plan for travel in and out of Colorado during the winter of 2015: 1) Open Hot & Cold faucets in both Kitchen and Shower and let the 12 V water pump empty the fresh water tank down the drains and into the grey holding tank. When the faucets all spit and bubble, the supply lines are fairly clear. Don't forget the toliet flush inlet water. 2) Turn off the 12 V pump and leave all four faucets open 3) Be sure you buy or make a fitting that adapts your City Water input hose inlet to accept compressed air. Wal-Mart sells a plastic air pressure-to-hose adapter for a few dollars in the RV dept. I cobbled a brass one together from parts sold at ACE Hardware. Cost about $10. 4) Apply moderate air pressure (about 50 lbs) from a filling station to the air-to-hose adapter. Make sure all the faucets spit and hiss. This time, also hold the toilet flush lever open so that the flushing water inlet hisses and spits too. 5) Dump the black and gray water tanks. Tow the R-Pod "dry" in freezing weather. I believe that running the Hot Water heater for a few minutes 3-4 times during the tow day will keep the water in the HW tank from freezing. Add some fresh water for Camping at night, mostly for flushing. With the furnace on all the water lines should keep above 30 deg F OK. Residual water in the three big tanks can get slushy, even freeze, without hurting anything. If you will still be towing the next day in sub freezing temps, repeat the steps for winterizing with air. Carry bottled water in the Tow Vehicle for drinking when camping dry. ------------- 2014 R-Pod 178 -- 2012 Honda Pilot 
Roadwise Wisdom for both Bikers and Froggers alike: http://www.dansher.com/bikequotes.html |
Posted By: headcold
Date Posted: 26 Nov 2014 at 5:28pm
| Keep the pod dry and use RV anti-freeze to flush the toilet. Doesn't take that much to fill the bowl and the stuff is cheap. |
Posted By: beachmaster
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2014 at 4:35pm
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an update...back in arizona to winterize with kit from campers world ("t" valve, hose and double female adapter) the pump was installed so close to the hot water tank that it was even difficult to remove the water line, managed to get the hose attached and got the job done. now i know why the valve and hose were missing in the first place. have a unused valve and adapter if any one needs one...lol thanks again for the great advice
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Posted By: Rouge1953
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2015 at 4:14pm
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We are currently on our second week R Podding in NW Arkansas.
The first night our water supply hose froze. The fix - 5 gal bucket with lid, 6' heat tape, cable ties, foam plumbing insulation and Fiberglas insulation. I will post pic once it stops raining/ sleeting and snowing :(   ------------- Linda and Al Brody and Bailey - our fur babies 2015 Rpod 179 2013 F150 |
Posted By: Leo B
Date Posted: 04 Mar 2015 at 4:25pm
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Podding is always and adventure!! ------------- Leo & Melissa Bachand 2017 Ford F150 2021 Vista Cruiser 19 csk Previously owned 2015 Rpod 179 2010 Rpod 171 |