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erratic brake light connection

Printed From: R-pod Owners Forum
Category: R-pod Discussion Forums
Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
Forum Discription: Ask maintenance questions, share your podmods (modifications) and helpful tips
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=5564
Printed Date: 20 May 2024 at 8:35am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 9.64 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: erratic brake light connection
Posted By: Happy Tripping
Subject: erratic brake light connection
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2014 at 12:54pm
7 month old r-pod, used on several multi-hundred mile trips with no problems.

I recently checked my brake lights on setting out and they didn't work, turn signals and emergency blinkers were ok. I wiggled the 7 pin connection and they worked, I didn't recognize any problems on the subsequent 6 hour trip. I don't believe it's a loose wire, it seemed to be a poor electric 'connection'.

Is this 'on again - off again' condition common?

Can I prevent this with some sort of 'lubricant'? One forum member likes 'dilectric grease', but this seems to be messy and for rubber connections, not inside the metal-to-metal of the socket itself.

I am electrically challenged so please keep it simple.

Thanks for any info.




Replies:
Posted By: Podster
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2014 at 1:21pm
On my connector the spring loaded cover over the receptacle actually acts as a plug keeper as well. It may be that you are not getting the plug inline and/or the lid in the right position to benefit from the latch (keeper) to keep the receptacle from moving around.   

There is more to the connector than just opening and connecting and pushing the plug in, at least on mine anyway. 

Take a look at the spring loaded lid with the plug in place and see if you can find a spot where the lid supports the plug and keeps it from backing out or shifting. 

Good Luck!




-------------
Cliff & Raelynn
Ranger 4.0/178
(1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity)


Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2014 at 1:59pm
i have noticed that on mine on a couple occessions, my brake controller light will go out.  i get mine pushed in all the way, have the spring laoded cover lid on properly; i guess it just wiggles slightly loose.  i now keep a very close eye on it as i do not want to lose my trailer brakes.  hogone

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Jon & Pam
2013 RP177
2010 F150
2017 HD Streetglide
2009 HD Lowrider
CHEESEHEAD


Posted By: Luv2Q
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2014 at 2:06pm
I noticed a similar problem when we brought our Pod home from Ohio. Turned out to be a sloppy fit where the 7-pin male (trailer) end connected to the female (truck) end.  The spring-loaded keeper was doing its job & keeping the plug from falling out but it was still making a poor connection.  My jury-rigged solution: a heavy rubber band to force the connection to be snug. (And yes, I need to find a better long-term solution Wink )

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John & Teri
Tundra 5.7L V8 / RP 180
E2 WDH / Integrated controller (POS) replaced by Tekonsha P3


Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2014 at 2:09pm
Worst case you may have to bend the pin in the Bargeman so it makes better contact.

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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual


Posted By: john in idaho
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2014 at 5:12pm
You could try spraying the plug and receiver with electronic parts cleaner from NAPA. May require a Q tip at the same time.   It dries very quickly… as in 10-15 seconds.  I use it in my antique vehicles when the key switch acts funny, or the starter solenoid sticks.


Posted By: Outbound
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2014 at 5:19pm
Originally posted by Happy Tripping

'dilectric grease'

Count me as a second forum member who likes dielectric grease.  Its really not very messy at all.  And, as someone who's had similar connectivity issues, it works very well.

Before you do anything tho, use some emery paper to sand down the terminals on the r-pod's Bargman connector.  Folding a very narrow piece over the end of a flat screwdriver works well.

Then, use a Q-Tip to apply dielectric grease onto the Bargman connector's terminals - push it down in there.  With a paper towel, wipe off any excess that you may get on the rubber.


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Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150


Posted By: Outbound
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2014 at 5:28pm
One thing concerns me tho:

brake lights on setting out and they didn't work, turn signals and emergency blinkers were ok.

The brake lights, the turn signals and the emergency blinkers all run through the same two wires (three, if you count the ground to complete the circut) - the 5 and 6 pins.  If your problem is at the connector, then they'd either all work or none work.





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Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150


Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2014 at 6:12pm
Good catch Craig, that might mean the problem is related to the trailer light converter.

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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual


Posted By: Podster
Date Posted: 17 Nov 2014 at 8:13pm
I have seen electrical connections with multiple loads work, but then fail when the greater load (like the break lights) was applied.  

-------------
Cliff & Raelynn
Ranger 4.0/178
(1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity)


Posted By: hogone
Date Posted: 18 Nov 2014 at 6:19am
outbound; agree, good point.  so what your saying is that if i notice my brake controller light go out, i have likely lost all lights/connections to the pod.....correct?  hogone

-------------
Jon & Pam
2013 RP177
2010 F150
2017 HD Streetglide
2009 HD Lowrider
CHEESEHEAD


Posted By: kymooses
Date Posted: 18 Nov 2014 at 9:50am
Originally posted by hogone

outbound; agree, good point.  so what your saying is that if i notice my brake controller light go out, i have likely lost all lights/connections to the pod.....correct?  hogone

Mine has done that in the past, pulled out even in the slightest and I would lose turn signals on one side etc.  Give it a good push back in at the next gas/rest stop and good to go.


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https://calendar.google.com/calendar?cid=cnBvZC5zcG90dGVyQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ - RPod Rallies
https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1W1foQXGtrjf8aYly1uh0b-bHPfI&hl=en_US - RPod Owner Map


Posted By: Goose
Date Posted: 18 Nov 2014 at 11:51am
When we moved to AZ. I borrowed my neighbors car hauler for a couple of trips, the 7-way on the trailer was cheaper than the plug on the POD and would not make a constant connection. I had to use the needle nose pliers to bend the brass tabs on the trailer end just a hair at the corners so they bowed to the inside and would make a positive connection to the Jeep. With any of our other trailers I have never had a connection issue. Goose

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Mother Goose's Caboose..2011 RP171..07 Grand Cherokee


Posted By: Seanl
Date Posted: 18 Nov 2014 at 1:19pm
Originally posted by hogone

outbound; agree, good point.  so what your saying is that if i notice my brake controller light go out, i have likely lost all lights/connections to the pod.....correct?  hogone

On a 4 pin I have had situations where some lights worked and others did not even though they were all fed by the same wires. Turned out to be a ground problem. some lights found an alternative ground like the trailer hitch and you would get a week light but others did not. No lights. 


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Sean, 2011 Rpod RP-173,2009 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain Edition


Posted By: headcold
Date Posted: 18 Nov 2014 at 5:40pm
I had the same problem as described above. The tail lights and brake lights would flicker as I went down the road. It turned out that my ground was compromised each time I went over even the smallest bumps in the road because the hitch ball mount was rusted and rode loosely (rattled) in the receiver tube.  I sanded down the shaft of the hitch ball mount and shimmed a piece of aluminum sheeting to keep the hitch ball mount tight in the receiver and never had that problem again.


Posted By: Seanl
Date Posted: 18 Nov 2014 at 5:56pm
Originally posted by headcold

I had the same problem as described above. The tail lights and brake lights would flicker as I went down the road. It turned out that my ground was compromised each time I went over even the smallest bumps in the road because the hitch ball mount was rusted and rode loosely (rattled) in the receiver tube.  I sanded down the shaft of the hitch ball mount and shimmed a piece of aluminum sheeting to keep the hitch ball mount tight in the receiver and never had that problem again.


You shouldn't have to do this if you have a good ground wire in your trailer hitch wireing. You should not depend on the ball on your hitch for electrical ground

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Sean, 2011 Rpod RP-173,2009 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain Edition


Posted By: Happy Tripping
Date Posted: 25 Nov 2014 at 2:54pm
Thanks, Outbound, and the others too.

As follow up, part of the confusion is that i misunderstood my wife, ALL the lights were out and then working after wiggling so the trailer light converter seems unlikely, thankfully. 

I'm using this experience to start a new thread on checking brake lights.



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