Winterizing the R-Pod
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Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
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URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7154
Printed Date: 03 May 2024 at 5:10pm
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Topic: Winterizing the R-Pod
Posted By: kp57george
Subject: Winterizing the R-Pod
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2015 at 4:08pm
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This is my first year owning an R-Pod I will appreciate any help in how to Winterize the R-Pod ------------- kp57george |
Replies:
Posted By: Grandpa Hiker
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2015 at 5:13pm
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Here is a link to a number of documents, etc. that techntrek has graciously accumulated in one place. This list has been a huge help to me. You will see winterization and de-winterizaton information. http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 ps. Many thanks to techntrek for everything you do!!
------------- Rob & Becky 2014 Ford Explorer 3.5 SOHC V6 2015 R-179 Pod aka Piddle Pod "Life is not about waiting for the storms to pass, it is about learning to dance in the rain!!" |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2015 at 5:33pm
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Thanks! Just happy to help. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual 
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Posted By: kp57george
Date Posted: 11 Nov 2015 at 1:03pm
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I decided to do the compressed AIR winterization with RV ant freeze in appropriate places. I found the anode really eaten away . Should I buy Magnesium or aluminum anodes through Amazon? Really appreciate the forum and your help. George ------------- kp57george |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 11 Nov 2015 at 7:55pm
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Magnesium is the usual choice, unless you have problems with odors with your local water supply, then use aluminum. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: Don Halas
Date Posted: 21 Nov 2015 at 7:38am
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i winterized my 178 a couple of weeks ago. I used compressed air and didn't put anti-freeze in the lines only the toilet and drains. I only had one low drain. Is that right on the 178, one low drain? |
Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 21 Nov 2015 at 10:17am
No. Where did you find the drain? Usually, if you only see one, you're seeing the drain to the fresh water tank, which isn't actually a low-point drain. There is a low-point drain for the hot water line and for the cold water line. The drains are usually right behind the axle on the road-side of the pod. They may be nearly covered in foam, but they shouldn't be too hard to find. They need to have the caps removed and the faucets in the kitchen, and bath need to be opened, and you should go through the motion of flushing the toilet, so that the water in that line can get sucked out of the low-point drain. All of these are likely to still have water in them unless you did a very good job of blowing out the lines. You need to remember to re-cap the low-point drains before you put antifreeze in the system, else you'll end up with antifreeze all over the ground. In my opinion blowing out the lines is of dubious value. There really isn't a good substitute for antifreeze because air isn't going to remove all of the water, and where the water is left are the places that are most vulnerable to freezing in breaking. (Bends in the pipes, near the valves, and in the water pump.) Maybe depending on the climate where your pod spends the winter, you could get away with just blowing out the lines, but, the low-point drains are so easy to deal with, and antifreeze isn't that big a trick either, especially if you only do it once a season. I winterize several times a season because I camp about as much in the winter as I do in warm weather. I don't always de-winterize, if for example, we're going to the mountains for 3 or 4 days and we expect the temps to be below freezing most or all of the time. Then we don't use the plumbing! TT ------------- 2010 176 FJ Cruiser |
Posted By: kp57george
Date Posted: 21 Nov 2015 at 11:01am
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Our 177 looks like what the plumbing of the 178 should be. I modified the info I got from the Forum and followed the following procedures. I appreciate the advice of FT Cruiser but I did it all by air except anti-freeze in drains. Let's collaborate in the spring when we de-winterize. George RPod Winterization Modified Forum using compressed air;
Anti-freeze only in drains 1). Open both low-point drains underneath the camper. These
hang down along the left edge under the floor behind the wheel. You will need
two crescent wrenches, one to hold the upper "nut", one to twist off
the lower nut (you can do the lower plug by hand.). 2) Open the hot and cold valves on the kitchen sink, and
then open the outside panel for the hot water heater; remove the anode rod plug
on the hot water heater. Water will gush out - but it will not be under
pressure. Inspect and replace the anode if necessary (about every two years; in
2015 it was not necessary but I bought a spare). The water heater must be
stored dry, do not try to fill it with antifreeze. Wait for the water to stop
running out of the drains and plug hole. Using a garden hose, flush any debris
from inside the water heater tank. You can pull open the pressure relief valve
at the top of the water heater to speed up the draining process. Insert the
anode rod, using a layer of Teflon tape on the threads. 3) I DID NOT DO THIS STEP AS I THINK OUR UNIT IS DIFFERENT.
Turn all 3 bypass valves on the hot water heater. The valves are inside the
trailer on the back of the water heater - look on the outside of the camper to
see where the water heater is located. The valves on the cold and hot water
lines will now be perpendicular to the water lines (closed), and the valve
between the hot and cold lines will now be parallel (open). 4) Attach a "blow-out plug" to the city water connection;
be sure to use Teflon tape so it is a tight seal. MARK HAS ONE WITH HIS AIR
COMPRESSOR. Apply LOW pressure air (ABOUT 25 psi) until the low-point drains
stop sputtering. Do the same for the toilet and shower. Close the low-point
drains finger-tight. 6) Inside the trailer, remove the access panel for the
water pump (on the 177 it’s BELOW THE SINK MUST REMOVE WOOD PANEL near the
water heater). On the intake line for the water pump, you'll notice a valve and
about 2 1/2' of tubing that's loose on one end. I DID NOT USE THIS HOSE AS IT
IS TO DRAW IN ANTI FREEZE 7) Outside and underneath the trailer, open your freshwater
tank drain valve and allow it to empty. 8).Pour some RV antifreeze into the shower and sink drains
to fill the water traps 9). Open the black water and gray water dump valves make
sure the black and gray waste water tanks are empty. The last dumps of the
season fill both tanks full of water before dumping. Repeat at least once November 19, 2015 ------------- kp57george |
Posted By: kymooses
Date Posted: 21 Nov 2015 at 11:43am
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Compressor and Pink Stuff videos here. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxfd7D0jRvni8hW6IchsOUw - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxfd7D0jRvni8hW6IchsOUw I'm the type who it helps to "see" things as well as have a checklist when I learn a new thing. ------------- https://calendar.google.com/calendar?cid=cnBvZC5zcG90dGVyQGdtYWlsLmNvbQ - RPod Rallies https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=1W1foQXGtrjf8aYly1uh0b-bHPfI&hl=en_US - RPod Owner Map |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 21 Nov 2015 at 8:08pm
You definitely have the bypass valves. If you ever do use antifreeze - and I recommend it, you are in Ohio - you must change their positions. Using just air you won't get the water out of the valve seats and low points in the system. You might get lucky one year, but eventually you'll crack something and realize you need the antifreeze.
------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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Posted By: Retiree-Pod
Date Posted: 22 Nov 2015 at 1:11pm
| I didn't see any mention of the black tank flush system. The hose connection outside of the trailer that is used to supply clean water while dumping black tank. Have others gone without anything done to this and had issues? |
Posted By: pnwcamper
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2015 at 9:55am
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I winterized the R-pod 177 on Saturday for the first time. Read the instructions and watched the video from this site, which was very helpful. Took my time from start to finish was 1.5 hours which included gathering tools, antifreeze etc. Most likely will take half that time in the future. Used just shy of 1 gallon antifreeze. Originally thought I would do the compressed air method but wanted to play it safe so used RV antifreeze. I did not blow out the lines with air as some have suggested not really necessary when using antifreeze. Seems to make sense to me if you are using antifreeze why blow out the lines? Pretty straight forward procedure but we'll see this spring when I de-winterize. One question, should I open a faucet to de-pressurize the waterlines? ------------- 2014 R-Pod 177 2009 Toyota Tacoma Access Cab 4.0 V6 |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2015 at 10:24am
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The main reason to blow out the lines is to remove as much diluting water from the lines. gets the strongest amount of anti-freeze in the lines. Everyone has their own threshold and view.. ------------- |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2015 at 10:26am
It's a straight line with two open ends.. it doesn't/can't hold water. ------------- |
Posted By: pnwcamper
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2015 at 10:47am
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Does anyone de-pressurize the lines after winterizing (open a faucet) or keep pressure in the water lines? ------------- 2014 R-Pod 177 2009 Toyota Tacoma Access Cab 4.0 V6 |
Posted By: SNO4ME
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2015 at 2:34pm
I always depressurize. IF there is a possibly of any water left in the lines it causes more damage when under pressure. And I always use air to blow he lines out with a portable air compressor with the adjustable gauge. IF there is any water left in the lines it would dilute the antifreeze. I'm also very generous with the pink stuff. Maybe I'm being anal but it's so much easier to be anal in the fall than to crawl around in uncomfortable positions playing "Joe Plumber" in the spring.  ------------- Bruce & Donna in the Sno Pod (and Brewer too) 2011 RP 177 |
Posted By: NMJohn
Date Posted: 24 Nov 2015 at 11:01am
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Our rpod dealer recommended the pink stuff over the air only approach because he said that the water pump is better remaining somewhat lubricated over the winter. In another post someone mentioned leaving some pink stuff in the toilet bowl to lubricate the rubber seal there. Both of these recommendations make sense to me. Also, from my understanding of the problem with water, the main reason why it's harmful is that when it freezes it expands. It seems to me if there's a little water at a low point and expansion under no pressure allows it to expand up the tube or in the bottom of a tank, there will likely be no damage. Maybe I'm living dangerously with these thoughts, but it makes sense. In a pump, or some spot under pressure, even small amounts could cause some damage. Any comments? John
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Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 24 Nov 2015 at 3:44pm
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The valve seats. The water will be trapped there with nowhere to go. In the spring you'll need new valves or a whole new faucet. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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