Hot Water Heater ByPass
Printed From: R-pod Owners Forum
Category: R-pod Discussion Forums
Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
Forum Discription: Ask maintenance questions, share your podmods (modifications) and helpful tips
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7330
Printed Date: 13 May 2024 at 4:18am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 9.64 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Hot Water Heater ByPass
Posted By: CanvasCamperMatt
Subject: Hot Water Heater ByPass
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2016 at 9:06am
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Hello, It's time for out annual R-pod / CanvasCampers Winter trip. While I was over here posting on that thread I figured I'd share my Hot Water Heater ByPass Mod that I just did. R-Pod, Travel Trailer, Pop-up, they all use similar Hot Water Heaters. I just copied my thread from CanvasCampers to share with the R-Pod group.
Last weekend I finally got around to winterizing my camper. I needed to install a Hot Water Heater bypass so I didn't have to waste 6 gallons of RV antifreeze. I also needed to add a siphon hose to my water pump to suck up the antifreeze. I am not a fan of dumping antifreeze in the fresh water tank. The HWH bypass cost $30 at my local RV store. They threw in the fitting for the water pump and I had some hose in the garage. In total I think I spent 30-45 minutes doing this. I only used 1 adjustable wrench and some Teflon tape that came with the HWH bypass kit. Here is the back of the HWH before the bypass. http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/CamperDude/media/hwh5_zpswrxyqrdp.jpg.html"> 
I simply unscrewed the existing water lines and installed these T valves (I'm not a plumber, there may be a more specific name for it) http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/CamperDude/media/hwh%203_zpsaka3xciy.jpg.html"> 
Then I just screwed the original water lines to the new fittings and the little bypass hose. http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/CamperDude/media/hwh2_zpslc88hdvv.jpg.html"> 
For the water pump I just unscrewed the water inlet line http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/CamperDude/media/hwh10_zpsr9ur4dum.jpg.html"> 
I put the hose onto the fitting http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/CamperDude/media/hwh9_zpscuywwnu1.jpg.html"> 
Screwed the siphon hose to the water inlet and put the other end in the jug-o-antifreeze http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/CamperDude/media/hwh7_zps1iedqcax.jpg.html"> 
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Replies:
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2016 at 10:22am
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2 things.. 1.... all pods come with a bypass system from the factory. 2.. you need to add a shut off valve in the crossover hose, or come spring you will get a "short circuit", and lukewarm water, if that.  ------------- |
Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2016 at 10:31am
Looks like the valves he used are "either/or". If so, no additional shutoff needed. If not, you're right. ------------- Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2016 at 11:37am
Ahh.. Yes, that could be the case.. He did say he bought a kit, not bodged together the way I would.. LOL.. so no doubt that is the type of valve used.  ------------- |
Posted By: CanvasCamperMatt
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2016 at 11:47am
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Yes, I bought a kit. The T valves that came with it will shut off the crossover hose when opening up for the HWH
I don't know why all HWH don't come standard with bypass kits. That's cool that Rpods do come standard with the bypass. |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2016 at 9:29pm
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Interestingly the bypass system on my camper only has one valve. That threw me at first but after thinking about it, it makes sense since it is like the valves in Matt's system, diverting the flow either to one outlet or the other. The other end of the bypass hose just has a regular T fitting like the black one at the top of the pic, above. I'm surprised more campers don't have just that one valve since it should be cheaper. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual 
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Posted By: jato
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2016 at 6:55am
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I guess I am missing something here. Wouldn't it be a whole lot simpler to just blow out the system with an air compressor? I have done this every year since 2012 and it takes about 20-30 seconds and you are done. No anti-freeze to fuss with, except for the traps.
------------- God's pod '11 model 177 '17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake "...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free." |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2016 at 10:28am
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In my experience, both can go wrong, and both can work. Using pink stuff insures there is no water left collected in a valve or fitting. I personally can do pink stuff in a couple minutes on our pod, while not all interactive time, it takes a half hour or so before I am comfortable when I have done just air. I do one valve at a time and let it flow at 30psi until nothing comes out besides air. Also, many people don't own a compressor. Unfortunately, come spring, we will see several water pump filters, a few water pumps, toilet valves, and on newer pods, outside showers, all broken from not getting winterized fully, and my observation last year, most were people who used air. Now, as far as the "why do people?" I will never understand people that hook up and drag the trailer to a dealer and pay $75-300 to have it done. Regardless of what method they might use at home.. ------------- |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2016 at 10:30am
and less confusing. 1 valve, it's either right or wrong. We see so many owners with the three valve confusions here.. usually the center one throws them. But having one would sure simplify getting a new owner to get it right when they have no hot water, or sporadic hot water.. ------------- |
Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2016 at 11:46am
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It seems that the single valve approach can still let some antifreeze into the WH, especially if the WH is already empty. I'm assuming the singe valve is an either/or valve on the inlet side. Pressurized red stuff on the bypass route can flow back into the WH through the unblocked outlet side. Yes?
------------- Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2016 at 12:00pm
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Could have a one way on the "out" side of the WH..
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Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2016 at 12:27pm
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Still can dump into the WH if it's been emptied.
------------- Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2016 at 1:54pm
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If it bypasses the cold water fill side, then meets the T of the hot/exit side, and there is a one way between it and the tank, it will not fill.
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Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2016 at 2:04pm
Yes, but I'm not aware of a check valve in that outlet line. And if it is there that inhibits draining of the HW pipes and HW heater from the hot low point drain. All said I think the three valve setup, or two either/or valves, is best. Actually two either/or valves might be better since you would get either hot water, cold water, or no water, but not luke warm water. ------------- Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2016 at 9:31pm
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At first I thought it must allow some antifreeze in, but it can't be much. I used slightly less than a gallon in the pod, and slightly over a gallon in the Salem, which I expect since the plumbing system is a little bigger. Last year I even tried to drain the WH again when I was done and didn't get anything out. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual
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