How to level an Rpod on non-level ground?
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Topic: How to level an Rpod on non-level ground?
Posted By: happywifehappylife
Subject: How to level an Rpod on non-level ground?
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 8:11pm
| Our 2017 Rpod 179 has been a bit difficult to level because several times we have been assigned (dry) campsites with pull-throughs that were not level. Our parking spot at home also is not level. Sometimes we have to dig a hole for the post that supports the tongue. Other times we have to stack at least three of those yellow plastic blocks to raise one of the wheels. Other times we have to dig a hole for one of the wheels. Are there any tricks or ideas that I should be aware of, or is it just a problem without any easy solution? |
Replies:
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 9:41pm
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Unfortunately, sites that are not level are common. There are different alternatives. Some of them involve wood blocks (bulky and heavy) or plastic blocks that interlock and stack (lighter weight, but still bulky). Another involves a curved, wedge-shaped plastic part with another part that acts as a chock (Andersen leveler). This one is relatively light, and does stow well when not being used. One pulls up onto the wedge, which rocks as the height increases. When one has the correct height, the other piece is placed to block the wedge which also helps chock the wheel. Chocks on the other side are still important. Yet another choice is the BAL single-axle leveler. This is like a big U-shaped piece of metal that is placed around the tire and then a jack-screw is tightened. This raises part of the leveler and the tire (and trailer) with it. Advantages are that one does not have to guess at blocks or be precise on backing or pulling forward. One stops, places, and raises the low side. Disadvantages are that it is quite heavy and bulky. The screw can be hard to tighten with the supplied wrench, especially as the height increases. Greasing the threads helps, but that can get messy. As for the tongue, the newer ones come with a flip-foot. Not letting it flip down, but just lowering it onto a block of wood can help for places which need the tongue to be low. Depending on the slope, you may still need blocks to help get the tongue high enough if the slope is toward the front of the trailer. You will learn what works best for you. I went through a few options, including all of the above. One thing that will help is a 3/4" socket and adapter to fit a battery operated drill-driver. This is used to lower and raise the stabilizers once the trailer is level. It is a lot easier than using the crank handle supplied with the R-Pod. ------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: jato
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 9:48pm
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It is definitely one of those chores you wish you didn't have to perform but unless you want to pay big $$ at a campground where you have totally level spots that are paved, it is one of those chores you will get better and better with more and more practice. We often encounter this at basic campsites where there is no electricity or water available but the rate per night is very reasonable. At one state park not very far from us we pay 14 dollars/night. Very fair even w/o electricity or water I think, and the lots are right on the shore of Lake Michigan. Before unhooking we try to find the most level area by 'eyeballing' the terrain. Then you begin the process, how many blocks under the low tire to bring it level side to side, then how much wood under the jack so you can level front to rear. We are at the point now to where it rarely takes us more than 10 minutes to get this taken care of. It helps when 2 work together as a team on this one ! ------------- God's pod '11 model 177 '17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake "...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free." |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2016 at 10:13pm
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Normally, we chock the "high" side, and use the BAL on the low side. After finding as level a spot on the site as we can. If the low side is pretty low, we will often put a lego or two down under the low side, so the BAL doesn't need as much cranking.. The important thing to remember is, Chocks first, and chocks last" NEVER be unhooked from the tow vehicle without the Pod being chocked both sides, in front and behind the tires, no matter how up/down hill it looks.. StephenH mentioned the flip jack.. That has turned out to be single year option, the new pods don't have them now. We found switching to a powered tongue jack gave us several inches more "travel" at the jack. ------------- |
Posted By: fwunder
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2016 at 8:57am
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Chocks! After that, I've found https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-Towing-Solutions-8525-Graduated/dp/B000AA4RWM - Hopkins Levels to be real helpful. BTW, the (rv) sites at Blackwoods campground in Acadia are all pull throughs and mostly pretty radically sloped fore and aft.  ------------- 2014 RPod 178 => https://goo.gl/CV446f - MyMods and Buying Habits 2008 4Runner Limited 4.0-liter V6 Yes, those are wild ponies dining on grass while dumping tanks! |
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2016 at 9:02am
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BTW.. leveling front to back and side to side is normal. In hundreds of campsites, only once or twice has the site been naturally level.
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Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2016 at 9:25am
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We actually encountered one of the level sites this year. Some of the time, there is at least some minimal leveling required. Other times, significant leveling is required.
------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: ronahue
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2016 at 10:03am
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I carry a 2' carpenters level and level left to right then front to back (I use the seams in the floor to confirm my level is properly placed). This year I after leveling with the carpenters level I tried using the bubble level that comes with my iPhone simply placing it on the counter top by the sink in our r-179. It agrees with the carpenters level every time. I haven't got the nerve to leave the carpenters level home yet. By the way the iPhone level can be used against the refrigerator to check for plumb and level as it becomes a stick level when held vertically. PS: Before you ask, to get to the iPhone level open the compass and swipe right to left with your finger.
------------- Ron & Sharon 2015 R-Pod 179 2022 Nissan Frontier No trees were harmed in the sending of this message but a billion electrons were really agitated |
Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2016 at 10:08am
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A word of caution: Be very sure to carefully chock both wheels before unhitching on terrain that's sloped front to back, especially if one side is higher than the other. Just a little movement can cause the tongue to move left or right as it comes off the ball. You can end up with your trailer rolling down hill. TT ------------- 2010 176 FJ Cruiser |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2016 at 2:36pm
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Never any need to dig. Also impossible on pavement. As soon as you are almost done backing up pull out your level to check side to side, add blocks behind the low wheel and finish backing up. Chock the wheels, unhitch, check for level front to back, adjust tongue jack, done. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual 
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Posted By: ronahue
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2016 at 3:11pm
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I agree with techntrek leveling is not a big deal. ------------- Ron & Sharon 2015 R-Pod 179 2022 Nissan Frontier No trees were harmed in the sending of this message but a billion electrons were really agitated |
Posted By: kent l
Date Posted: 18 Sep 2016 at 8:08pm
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For leveling I use my I phone with the level app. It is works good and I do not have to travel with a level Just put in the side of the trailer and get it level. Then on the tongue to get the the other part of it right |
Posted By: TheBum
Date Posted: 19 Sep 2016 at 4:53pm
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If the trailer is within 1 degree of level, I won't bother trying to get it perfectly level.
I had previously used the BAL leveler, but it's way too labor intensive if you need to raise it up much. On our last outing, we used the Andersen 3604 leveler and it worked great. As for level indicators, we started out with Hopkins bubble levels, but the glue gave out on one of them (the tube fell off and we never found it) and the other exploded due to solar radiation. We're now using Sun Lev-o-Gage levels, which use a ball bearing in an oily substance. They handle solar heat much better than a bubble level does. https://smile.amazon.com/Company-306-R-Lev-o-gage-Inclinometer-Gauge/dp/B003D2AVMO - https://smile.amazon.com/Company-306-R-Lev-o-gage-Inclinometer-Gauge/dp/B003D2AVMO |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2021 at 9:04am
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I use one of the Hopkins RV Smart-Level devices. I used double-sided tape instead of screws, so I use a thin shim to make sure it sits square with the wall for side-to-side leveling. Front to back does not need that. It isn't perfectly accurate, but it is very close. It also can be seen by the driver in the rear-view mirror. The lights make it easy to use. Just remember to remove it from the holder when done and don't try to drive with it attached. It isn't made for that. I found mine at Walmart. eTrailer has it also for the same price. Don't be put off by the low reviews. Most of those are operator error. Use of a better adhesive like the 3M ones made for outdoors will make sure it doesn't become unstuck. Mine has been on for multiple years now. http://walmart.com/ip/Hopkins-Towing-Solutions-Rv-Smart-Level/155350945 - http://walmart.com/ip/Hopkins-Towing-Solutions-Rv-Smart-Level/155350945 ------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: Ben Herman
Date Posted: 26 Sep 2021 at 12:22pm
| I rely on two things - 1) a pair of levels screwed to the trailer (one in front for side to side) and one on the side for front to back. I don't recall the brand, I can go look if you want, but what I like about the ones that I have is that they show you how many inches off level you are. 2) A bunch of the plastic interlocking blocks ( I have several dozen). First thing that I do when I pull (or back) into a site is check the side to side level. If it shows me to be 2 inches off, I use two plastic blocks under the wheel that is low (actually, I use 4; two high x two, to capture the full width of the tire). Each block is 1 inch high, so its easy to determine how many to use. I put them in front of (or behind) the tire, depending whether I am backing up or pulling forward, then get the tire up on the blocks. I then chock the wheels, and unhitch the trailer. Front to back is easy, just use the tongue jack to raise or lower the front as needed to get the trailer level front to back. Once that is done, I lower the stabilizer jacks to get it solidly in place. The stabilizers are not meant to raise or lower the trailer, just to get it solidly in place. The whole operation maybe takes 5 minutes. We rarely camp in commercial campgrounds, so almost always are dealing with non-level sites. |