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178 Bypass valves

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Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
Forum Discription: Ask maintenance questions, share your podmods (modifications) and helpful tips
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=9239
Printed Date: 28 May 2024 at 9:21pm
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Topic: 178 Bypass valves
Posted By: JET
Subject: 178 Bypass valves
Date Posted: 21 Jan 2017 at 5:56pm
I just got my new 178 home and am trying to get up to speed on certain things. I am quite sure my particular questions should have been addressed many times previously but I have exhausted my searches without getting specific answers, so I am indulging the forum for the answers. I am somewhat confused pertaining to bypass valves and the bypass pump. At this juncture I know that 178 has them but I would like to really understand what they are for. And I have been trying to find where my bypass valves and pump are located on the 178. I am under the impression (let me know where I am not grasping things) that the bypass valves are basically there to enable me to keep water from going into the water heater... and I would want to do that when I am adding antifreeze for winterization. I understand that there are 3 bypass valves...hot, cold and one in a hose in between the two hot and cold. I understand which way the valves are positioned to be open and closed (handle with flow=open etc.). My new 178 has not been filled with water yet, and I don't intend to do so right away (still winter and not going anywhere with it soon), I am assuming the the bypass valves are closed and before I fill the pod with water...to insure I get the hot water tank filled....I need to look at my bypass valves and make sure they are open (and the in between valve is closed) before I fill with water and turn the hot water tank on. So my basic questions are...

1) Where exactly is the bypass pump and bypass valves on my 2017 178?
2) What is the purpose of the "in between" bypass valve on the hose between the hot and cold inlet bypass valve?
3)What is the purpose of the bypass pump, if any, other then to be able to pump antifreeze thru the system for winterization?




Replies:
Posted By: Bugout
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2017 at 7:46am
The bypass is under the bed.you have to remove the mattress and plywood the you can see the water heater and bypass valves.or there's a small cover plate in the storage compartment in the street side.but it vary hard to see that way. The pump is under the sink on the floor.

-------------
Jk Aiken South Carolina 2016 178 Toyota Tundra 2017 4.6


Posted By: Podster
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2017 at 8:13am
1) Where exactly is the bypass pump and bypass valves on my 2017 178? Pump is behind the service panel below the sink. Valves are under the bed.
2) What is the purpose of the "in between" bypass valve on the hose between the hot and cold inlet bypass valve? When closed, prevents hot and cold water from mixing when the other two valves are open. When open allows water to flow while the others are closed to prevent flow into the water heater.
3)What is the purpose of the bypass pump, if any, other then to be able to pump antifreeze thru the system for winterization? Not really a pump, but an uptake valve. It allows RV anti-freeze to be sucked up into the plumbing system by inserting the pigtail hose connected to the same valve into the anti-freeze jug, opening the valve and turning on the water pump. 

Here is a great video by my main man Travis "aka...MoosePOD" on how all of this works...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNw5wujU9tI - R-Pod Winterization with "Pink Stuff"


-------------
Cliff & Raelynn
Ranger 4.0/178
(1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity)


Posted By: Bama Pod
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2017 at 8:32am
In my 180 both the heater and pump are under the bed.  I winterized using anti-freeze once, but it was such a pain in the arse that this time I bought an air compressor, drained the water heater, blew out all the lines, poured some anti-freeze in drains, and called it a day.  MUCH easier.


-------------
Bama Pod
Huntsville, AL

2017 Ford F250
2017 Airstream 26U


Posted By: Podster
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2017 at 8:39am
I have done both the blow out and the draw through the pickup valve method. 

Owners that have to store off-site where the option with having an air compressor with a tank on site is not really an option, will find the pink stuff option favorable. 

I actually find the blow out method more time consuming. 

Here is a pick showing the bed setup to make it easy to get to whats under...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2M4imcnGBJoQ3czNTAtYnE1YUU/view?usp=sharing - bedlift1.jpg



-------------
Cliff & Raelynn
Ranger 4.0/178
(1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity)


Posted By: JET
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2017 at 8:53am
Originally posted by Podster

1) Where exactly is the bypass pump and bypass valves on my 2017 178? Pump is behind the service panel below the sink. Valves are under the bed.
2) What is the purpose of the "in between" bypass valve on the hose between the hot and cold inlet bypass valve? When closed, prevents hot and cold water from mixing when the other two valves are open. When open allows water to flow while the others are closed to prevent flow into the water heater.
3)What is the purpose of the bypass pump, if any, other then to be able to pump antifreeze thru the system for winterization? Not really a pump, but an uptake valve. It allows RV anti-freeze to be sucked up into the plumbing system by inserting the pigtail hose connected to the same valve into the anti-freeze jug, opening the valve and turning on the water pump. 

Here is a great video by my main man Travis "aka...MoosePOD" on how all of this works...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNw5wujU9tI - R-Pod Winterization with "Pink Stuff"
Cliff, thanks so much for the information. I really appreciate the reply. Do you own a 178? It sounds like a tremendous amount of trouble to open and close the shut the bypass valves. 

I am going to get a hold of my selling dealer Monday. When we received our initial walk thru it was done by a mechanic that had prepped and serviced our R-Pod. He at that time told me that it was already winterized, but he did not find it necessary to use the pink anti-freeze, they blew the lines out with compressed air and that was it. I never asked him, nor did he mention the bypass valves and their status of being open or closed, that is why I was looking for them to know where they are at and to be able to know how to access them in the future when I do add antifreeze to the system. So all this information brings me to these questions. 

1) When I winterize is simply blowing out the system with compressed air enough? Or do I want to make sure I always add pink anti-freeze to the system (I live in southern Oregon and we do get cold winters, in the 20's)?

2) If I do winterize using antifreeze how difficult is it to...
a. access the bypass valves under the bed (tips and info would be greatly appreciated)?
b. access the pump and utilize the hose for uptaking antifreeze from antifreeze container?

3) How difficult is it to utilize the access to the pump (post mentioned it is under the sink behind a service panel) to be able to add the pink anti-freeze?

4) When winterizing by blowing out the lines, in lieu of adding anti-freeze, would you still need to open and close the bypass valves for this operation ( I assume no, but hate to assume anything with my lack of experience and knowledge)?

I NOTICED THAT WHILE I WAS WRITING THE ABOVE NEW QUESTIONS THAT THERE HAS BEEN SOME REPLIES THAT ADDRESS SOME OF THE QUESTIONS. I WOULD APPRECIATE AS MUCH INPUT BY THOSE HOW OWN A 178 AND DEAL WITH THE SAME ISSUES. THANKS...JOHN



Posted By: JET
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2017 at 8:55am
Originally posted by Podster

I have done both the blow out and the draw through the pickup valve method. 

Owners that have to store off-site where the option with having an air compressor with a tank on site is not really an option, will find the pink stuff option favorable. 

I actually find the blow out method more time consuming. 

Here is a pick showing the bed setup to make it easy to get to whats under...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2M4imcnGBJoQ3czNTAtYnE1YUU/view?usp=sharing - bedlift1.jpg

Cliff, thanks a million for the answers and the photo. Great help. 




Posted By: JET
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2017 at 9:01am
Originally posted by Podster

I have done both the blow out and the draw through the pickup valve method. 

Owners that have to store off-site where the option with having an air compressor with a tank on site is not really an option, will find the pink stuff option favorable. 

I actually find the blow out method more time consuming. 

Here is a pick showing the bed setup to make it easy to get to whats under...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2M4imcnGBJoQ3czNTAtYnE1YUU/view?usp=sharing - bedlift1.jpg


Cliff thanks for the photo.

Is the photo shown with mods you did or is that how the set-up came from the factory?

Do you own a 178?


Posted By: Bama Pod
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2017 at 9:14am
Oh, that's a NICE bed setup.  Too bad they don't build them that way.
And I agree that the blowout method may not be an option for some owners.
And I agree it is more time consuming (mostly just standing around).
And the pink stuff does work well (we dropped to 5 a few weeks ago and no freeze issues).
But not having to practically take the bed completely apart to bypass/syphon is just easier (for me).
It's a matter of preference I suppose.
I recommend trying both (if have that option) and then decide.
The first time is a little scary (did I do everything right?).
But once done you'll realize it's really not that hard.
Moose-pod has an EXCELLENT video on YouTube.
Watch it 4 or 5 times, then do it, and you'll be an expert.



-------------
Bama Pod
Huntsville, AL

2017 Ford F250
2017 Airstream 26U


Posted By: JET
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2017 at 9:51am
Originally posted by Podster

1) Where exactly is the bypass pump and bypass valves on my 2017 178? Pump is behind the service panel below the sink. Valves are under the bed.
2) What is the purpose of the "in between" bypass valve on the hose between the hot and cold inlet bypass valve? When closed, prevents hot and cold water from mixing when the other two valves are open. When open allows water to flow while the others are closed to prevent flow into the water heater.
3)What is the purpose of the bypass pump, if any, other then to be able to pump antifreeze thru the system for winterization? Not really a pump, but an uptake valve. It allows RV anti-freeze to be sucked up into the plumbing system by inserting the pigtail hose connected to the same valve into the anti-freeze jug, opening the valve and turning on the water pump. 

Here is a great video by my main man Travis "aka...MoosePOD" on how all of this works...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNw5wujU9tI - R-Pod Winterization with "Pink Stuff"

I just ran out to my 2017 model 178 to verify where my pump and bypass valves are located. I looked close under the sink and can't seem to see anything that looks like a service panel or pump (including removing the panel under the cabinet door directly under the sink). 

I then lifted the mattress and plywood seeing what I think is probably both the pump and bypass valves. Trying to inspect this area close while holding the mattress and plywood by hand made in difficult to know 100% that both are in fact located under the bed (I am going to recheck when I can do so with help). 

I did find the loose pigtail hose the would be used to upload antifreeze, so the fact that that hose is indeed under the bed implies to me that both the pump and bypass hoses are located in that one spot under the bed.

Is that correct? 

Can someone else with a 2017 model 178 verify that?


Posted By: Podster
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2017 at 9:55am
I did find the loose pigtail hose the would be used to upload antifreeze, so the fact that that hose is indeed under the bed implies to me that both the pump and bypass hoses are located in that one spot under the bed.

Is that correct? Yes, sounds like FR may have relocated the pump on your model. 


-------------
Cliff & Raelynn
Ranger 4.0/178
(1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity)


Posted By: Hi-Line
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2017 at 11:51am
Podster, what are the rods shown in your picture that you use to prop up the plywood and where do you get them? I've winterized my 179 twice now with antifreeze following KyMoose's excellent video instructions...not that hard to do with the video...hardest part is dealing with the mattress and plywood!


Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2017 at 1:21pm
I cut wood dowels to hold bed and plywood up. I use the compressed air method to winterize, works fine in TN. Yes it does take awhile. The kymooses videos on YouTube are excellent. One for air and one for antifreeze. I have a 178 and don't change my valves, limits amount of time lifting 10" mattress and plywood.

-------------
Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."


Posted By: Podster
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2017 at 1:58pm
Originally posted by Hi-Line

Podster, what are the rods shown in your picture that you use to prop up the plywood and where do you get them? I've winterized my 179 twice now with antifreeze following KyMoose's excellent video instructions...not that hard to do with the video...hardest part is dealing with the mattress and plywood!

Contact this company  http://www.hatchlift.com/ - HatchLift | Hydraulic Lift Kits | Rv Hatch Lifts | Hatch Hinges

 with you specific application and they will recommend the proper set-up. 


Not the easiest mod, but worth it in the long run...


Note: Changing the mattress make change the gas strut requirements...



-------------
Cliff & Raelynn
Ranger 4.0/178
(1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity)


Posted By: jato
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2017 at 3:21pm
Since 2012 I have only used to compressor method to blow out my lines.  I have timed myself to go thru the process of 1)switching the 3 valves for winterization, 2) open and drain HW tank, 3) hooking up air gun to loose pigtail hose under sink to blow out lines, 4) blow out lines (takes about 1 minute going thru all cold and hot water lines and toilet 2x, 5) add a total of 8 oz. pink antifreeze to 3 traps, 6) re-install drain plug to HW tank.  Took me just under 5 minutes, not too time consuming in my estimation.  The big plus is no nasty antifreeze taste the following year in the cold water supply for your drinking water.  We often have temps that fall well below - 20C during the winter, especially in January.  Never have had any water or line leak issues using this method.

-------------
God's pod
'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."


Posted By: Bboudens
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2017 at 8:07pm
You are right on the money, There is a valve right at the connection with that pig tail hose. I winterized for the first time myself this past Oct. Only took about half an hour and two jugs is plenty. I used a 4ft 2x4 to prop up the wood and mattress. Watch the Moose Pod "pink stuff"vid and the one for de-winterizing. It's well done and really helps.  

-------------
Keep your stick on the ice
2016 178HRE
2011 Silverado 1500


Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 22 Jan 2017 at 9:04pm
My opinion on winterizing based on my experience is that compressed air winterizing does not completely empty out all water in the system, even when one works through all faucets and low point drains. I did that, but decided to pump RV antifreeze through the system also. I was surprised at the amount of water that was expelled from the system before the pink antifreeze started flowing from the faucets.

That being said, I only needed one gallon of RV antifreeze since most of the water had been purged previously by the air. I will probably stick with this hybrid winterizing as it seemed to be relatively quick and it has so far been effective.


-------------
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS


Posted By: jato
Date Posted: 26 Jan 2017 at 7:12pm
I had an individual PM me about accessing the 3 valves under the bed.  What I did my first year back in 2011 was to cut an access hole above the 3 valves.  The opening is 5" x 8", not real large but enough room to reach down and change each of the valves.  I covered the hole with a piece of 1/4" luan that measures 6" x 9" and is held in place by one wood screw so that when I need to get to the valves I only need to 'swing' the cover piece 90 degrees.

-------------
God's pod
'11 model 177
'17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost
Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."



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