Thanks to everyone for the ideas, info and help that I have received on this forum! I really like the 180 floor plan, there are just a few things I think needed to be done or should have been done, (or I'm just a nut and did it) at the factory. Some of these are 180 only some will work on any pod.

 Yes it's wireless and hooked up to the reverse light.

 And I tow with the table on and only take it off when I store the pod.

 I mounted it with these tread inserts into the aluminum studs.

The tongue box came from harbor freight 

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-34-cu-ft-steel-trailer-tongue-box-60302.html - http://www.harborfreight.com/2-34-cu-ft-steel-trailer-tongue-box-60302.html

If you have one nearby, It goes on sale for $89 every other month or so. and get the 20% off coupon

I cut a small hole in the back of it and put a louvered screen over it. 

Because I've heard you shouldn't keep batteries in a sealed container.

And the LP tank needs to be moved forward. The dual tank set was almost necessary because you can't easily get to the handle to lock the box. It worked but was a pain and this led to the dual tank install,

which I wanted anyway.

rgds John

Here's a link to the Kelleher & pakari sites, it's Radiata Pine.

http://www.pakaritmd.com/ - http://www.pakaritmd.com/

http://www.kelleher.com/uploads/ckeditor/attachments/49/Pakari_UAL.PDF?1437079238 - http://www.kelleher.com/uploads/ckeditor/attachments/49/Pakari_UAL.PDF?1437079238

Just pulled this from the website.

 "Although Pakari TMD looks like a high-priced hardwood, it is still a softwood like redwood and cedar, and therefor can dent, scratch and check."

 

 

You can see in the pictures that i ripped it to 1-1/4" wide and used wood spacers to give it that boat swim step look. I drilled through each section and ran a 1/8"all

 thread front to back with a cap nut on each side, hoping it wouldn't tweak in the weather.

I made it in November and  It's been on the pod for three trips and three weeks with rain and still is flat as can be. 

The cover is a Carefree brand. The website explains how to measure and you can order direct from them, The dealer sells it for a few dollars less and they take responsibility for measuring.  There are 2 versions, one with a metal cover for when it's closed to protect the fabric $$$, and 1 without $$. I got the one without the cover because the dealer had it sitting in the warehouse collecting dust and sold it to me at cost to move it. Since I keep the pod covered when I store it, it not really a problem.

  Here's what came in the tube. Looks daunting to install but wasn't really that bad. Took about an hour to install

I used the stock rail that came on the pod instead of putting on new one that came with the kit,  and i just cut the drip edge off of one side, it only slopes about 3/4" but works perfect.

It's literally just slide fabric into kedder rail and set spring/fabric roll on roof, Mount brackets, insert spring, tighten a few screws, and pull spring pin. then install travel tension pin.

 

1

 

 

Ya, I love how they even fake the 3m logo on the back!!

In The 180 the zamp port is on the door side at the rear corner. I don't plan to use this port for solar, I would do something up front near the batteries.I use the port as an exterior 12v outlet and plug a temporary porch light into it and stick the light to the storage door magnet

In the 180 in the rear door side storage compartment there is a cover that you can remove to gain access to the back of the tailight. The zamp wire runs through here also, I cut the zamp wires added a terminal block with Fuses and some switches for all the lighting.  Wheres your port?

rgds John

Did you cut the little DC connector off and install a fuse and all that business?  The copper strands are pretty lacking as well in the wires.   I sure do like them but wish the quality was a smidge better.  

I didn't think of the truck bed, I may try that now, thanks for the ideaa!

The ones I buy are the 5050 they are a little better quality with thicker wires on the end, The 3528 has the thinner wire.

They have never come with anything but red and black wires on the end. the colored ones have RGB and black wires with a 4 pin connector that plugs into the IR reader. I also bought a roll of the RGB & black wire because that way I can mount the IR anywhere.  I usually either crimp for interior or solder with heatshrink for exterior. I did have to buy a real good quality Klien stripper for the old thin wire ones, that helped.

rgds John

Grocery's are not my department; I'm hardware, Sue is software. We have pretty well defined responsibilities.

I can tell you that she uses the cabinet above the sink for food, half the cabinet above the dinette for dry goods, and the other half for plates and such. The drawer under the dinette seat is used as a pot drawer.  I keep a large cooler in the backseat of my truck for beer, wine and a few other cold items. Having made the drawers in the kitchen pop out larger allows way more stuff to fit in there. She has a mantra "less is more".

rgds John

Thank you so much for all your instructions on these great mods. We would like to do the furnace heat deflector. Was wondering if there is a reason you didn't bring the deflector out to end of bed. You are a great inspiration 

Sara

InspirePod, new name for the Pod!

 The reason I did not make it go all the way to the edge of the cabinet space was I did not need to. It works as it should and when I don't need it installed I have to store it somewhere and space is always at a premium. I usually fill that space with plastic tubs for shoes, daypacks and other nice to have along items.

rgds John

 Looks like there is 2 near the door and then nothing until 10" or so before the window. That's like 3 feet! I have the 180 so mines totally different, But it doesn't look like anything is there, did you try a regular studfinder also? maybe someone with a 182G could chime in?

rgds John

 Not sure if your going for the outdoor table, but instead of Instead of buying the thread insert tool you could just get these, I get them at ace hardware and they are about .50 cents each. I think they call them Jack nuts. They come with a little tool that holds the insert while you tighten the bolt which draws the threads closer and smashes them up against the back of the aluminum, The tool is $1.

  It does look like you would get three mounting points, one by the door, then either side of the window. Not sure but I think the grab handle would still fold flat. Or just shorten the table up to a little bigger than under the window and get 2 good mounting points.

rgds John 

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=9501&KW=twin+beds&PID=89578&title=4th-180-modtwin-beds#89578 - http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=9501&KW=twin+beds&PID=89578&title=4th-180-modtwin-beds#89578

I've been looking at the undercarriage spare tire carriers online and came up with the same one you did. (BAL Model# 28218?) Do you have enough ground clearance after installing? Just picked up RP 180 a few weeks ago-1st TT, so very green at this point! The forum has been super helpful.

 Congrats on the new 180! 

 On the 180 the undermount carrier goes in front of the pods tires with no effect on the ground clearance.

 The model # I installed was 28215

Check chetc's post for a good how to. 
 

I bought the box at harbor freight $69 on sale with a 25% off coupon, Drilled a 4" hole in the rear with a small vent screen for venting any gas build up, And also upsized the wires from the battery to the pod. I then drilled a hole for the wires and put a waterproof box connector on the box for the wire to go through and did the 4 position shutoff switch($12 ebay) at the same time.

 And I got the dual tank mount at my local RV place for $19, I used all the stock regulator so it's a very easy install. The tank needed to move forward for the battery box to fit so the dual tank set up (which I love) just made sense to do at the same time. 

The box is nice and I use it store the chocks, a jack,tire lug wrench and the sewer elbow.

 On the heat deflector,  I'm keeping mine even though we have twin beds now, You could download the drawings and take it to any sheetmetal shop. I kept the drawers under the mattress mod and would still need it if i go back. I am in a re-design on the twin bed mod, I love the extra floor space up the middle but think I want to do something like this for sleeping and would need it if I did.

                                                                                                                                                                                                            Did it!

              

rgds John

Ken

Thanks for the kind words!, And congratulations on the new 180!. These things are the perfect get away toy, just enough space without hauling around a house. We like the 180 floor plan and IMHO think it's the best one. Looking forward to seeing things you do to it and stealing ideas :) And since your just down south maybe we will see you out on one of our favorite playgrounds, Joshua Tree and Anza Borrego.

Cheers, John

Where did you get the spare tire holder?

Luke

Hope this helps. I added it to the " http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=9039&title=2nd-180-podmod-drawers-under-matress - Drawers under the mattress " post also.

1. If I were to do it again I would only Make the drawers as deep as the space under the bed so the outside storage area in the front could be taller by 5". I think this makes the drawers 34" long but still 18" wide.

2. I would remove the plywood under the drawers for better access to the water pump and water heater. the plywood under is unnecessary. and it could just go back on top same as before.

3. Put a piece of 3/4 angle iron replacing the upper face frame under the bed. this will support the center drawer guide supports and let heat out better and open up the opening a little. 

6.I cut the drawer faces out of the 7 1/4" HD shelf material, One end of each is unfinished but hidden on the outside edge on each side. I set the Drawers out flush with the face frame and screwed the drawer face to them,this hides the unfinished cut out for the drawers. 

Good luck and let me know if all this makes sence.

rgds John

 

 There are two 3/4" angle iron pieces, one below the drawers at the front edge and one above,

they both are screwed to the back of the face frame and drawerbox to support the center drawer framing between the drawers,(red arrow) and to strengthen the face frame which you cut big holes in.

The one above goes on top of the plywood from seat to refer wall at the front edge (red arrow) and is screwed to the face frame and through wood on both sides of the drawers and platform frame. My thought here is if i jump on the bed over the opening,(could happen),I didn't want it to collapse. 

The one below replaces this piece (yellow arrow), to better support this piece again (red arrow).

What I was trying to achieve was a good way to attach the center 2 1x's, (red arrow) to the piece under, (yellow arrow) to both support it and keep it square, and angle iron fit the job. Because it also screws to the faceframe and the drawer framing,  And it opens up the opening underneath by 2.5 "

Here is a picture of the faceframe with top angle iron attached to the back, and the 4" piece I attached to the end

and the angle iron under that replaces the 2 1/2" piece of wood.

If the angle iron under piece is to much bother you could just leave the stock piece in place and maybe add a block to tie things all together.

Life is good, John

The parts were bought at my local RV place, top and bottom Bases $6 each ,post was $8

The table will wobble if hit hard, I centered the post 1/2" towards the wall and put felt bumpers on the table edge so it was more stable. After a year i think i need to move the top socket another 1/2" as it is starting to move a little more. 

One thing I would do different is not use the flush mount socket on the bottom, Use the surface mount one.

 There is a floor joist that i took a 1/2 inch curved slice out of, not horrible, but not the best. You could just move the socket 1" towards the back and the skinnier person sits there. but really the surface mount one does the same thing. 

The Bases just screw into the and top and floor, 1/2 hour job at most.  http://www.adventurerv.net/pedestal-table-leg-2912-base-p-5044.html?gclid=CjwKCAiAoqXQBRA8EiwAIIOWsp4QO-6Qb0hBKGQKkANaIsaq_VO3jL5OZagm33XZtpzt2QX07e5VqBoCFegQAvD_BwE&utm_campaign=partsfeed_ppc&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=Froogle - Could get them here  (pictures of the parts.)

Life is good,

John

Wouldn't that make the table unbalanced and lean away from the wall?

I put a level on it and it's 1/4" out of level, and if i push down on the wall side it levels out. These things are not the most stable units and the table will wiggle if bumped. Since we don't use it for sleeping, I may add a cleat to the wall  and just screw it down so it doesn't wiggle at all.

Life is good, John

I was having a problem with air in the lines that was causing the pump to to whine intermittently and lots of gurgling.

Turned out the hot water heater always has some air near the top and all I had to do was swap the lines so the pump draws from the bottom.

Uses way less power than the furnace and is much quieter. 

I made a video explaining the system,

https://photos.app.goo.gl/gsRe45vlanJbc7eL2 - https://photos.app.goo.gl/gsRe45vlanJbc7eL2

Also installed electronic igniters for the stove.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/YCnDlBUWAiHEkND72 - https://photos.app.goo.gl/YCnDlBUWAiHEkND72

 Thanks for a great tip.

Look forward to seeing your take on the twin bed mod! 

Are you planning  for drawers under? It's a real simple mod if your not, But the drawers made all the difference for the lack of storage in the 180. 

I got all the matching wood for face frames and drawer fronts at Home Depot, They have shelf material that matches really well.

Our center lift out section is 3/4  ply wrapped in thin carpet topped with the same foam as the mattresses, and fits real nice. It just sits snug on top of the drawer face frame. 

You will love how much the mod makes the pod feel more open and useful.

Only changes I would make would be a 4" foam mattress with topper instead of the 6" and not go so big on the framing to try and keep weight down. The mod did add 80 lbs up front on the tongue. 

If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask and I could do a better video or take any pictures of areas you might need.

Good luck!!

Rgds John

Hate to see you go. I loved all you mods and it was great to get to know you. 

See you in the funny papers.

Rick

I'm back!, with a new (2018) 180. Picked it up in Walcott Iowa, on my way out east.

Needed something for both coasts, Kids moves east and had Grandbabies. We plan to spend time visiting and touring the east coast for the next few years out of Richmond Virginia.

Just got back to CA and I have a few questions, 

Has anyone seen this a/c unit? the pod does not have a digital thermostat and the a/c controls are on the ceiling, It's either on or off, 3 speed and it's also a heat pump. Are they coming like this now?

 

And interior color mixing brown door,table and cornerblocks

Starting to think it was a near the end run of 2018's and they just used what they had lying around.

the dealer told me they bought 30 180'S and it was way less money than the last one I bought.

Good to be back! and I've already done a bunch of the smaller mods.

like the drawers,bath door to curtain,lift kit,elec panel move and radio move (see page 1)

Having fun being retired!

Cheers, John

The a/c is low profile, the 3 speed fan is quieter on low than the one that was in the 2015 and you can tell when it cycles on the cooling function. high is same as the old unit. the fan runs full time when on and there is a dial for temp control. I tested the heat pump and while its louder than the furnace, your using park power instead of propane.  

Also it's an east coast pod and it has NO camber on the axle, straight as a level the whole way across. Noticed this when I installed the lift blocks.

And per forest river quality control All lighting circuits are wired different and sharing other things.

Also has a maxxfan instead of a fantastic fan. I like the maxxfan better.

Cheers, John

Thanks. When mine went to the factory for repair, the Fantastic Fan was replaced with a MaxxAir Fan. I also like it better once I figured out how to modify my Fantastic Fan cover to fit the lugs to hold it in place on the roof (a little work with a Dremel tool to cut notches to fit).

What brand and model is the AC?

It is a Dometic unit, No identifying #s on the inside cover or outside cover. the outside cover is the black low profile just like the 2015 pod had. And i just looked and there is NO manual for it.

Since the fan on low is quieter than the old one, and I can set the dial to any temp I guess its just white noise when we sleep, like an airplane, and I don't have to deal with it cycling of and on. 

Just making excuses, wish it had a thermostat.

John

Furpod, 

Knowing the seller Cheyenne Rv Sales,  bought 30 and are selling them on ebay for $13600 they must have either bought overstock cheap or low enough priced and added a/c. Mine came with awning, elec jack, lp tank cover and A/C, tv, micro. so pretty loaded

My thought is that these were an overrun, and sold in bulk to the dealer. Mine was made in late 2018. And checking online 2019's have the brown door and the brown slide out corner blocks also, so I guess this is how they're being made now.

John 

For what it's worth, our 180 was made in April 2019.  The registration says it is a 2019 model.  Interior colors are the same as yours.  Our air conditioner is totally different.  The thermostat is digital mounted right of the bathroom door.

I just now got a sherline 1000 tongue scale and weighed the tongue.  400 pounds even.

That's with the fresh water tank drained of all it will drain in the level position, 5 gallons in the black tank, grey tank empty, inside stocked minimally with pots & pans, some dry goods, two sleeping bags, minimal items in the storage compartments, 53 pound battery, electric tongue jack, and estimate 4 gallons in a single propane tank. 

Tcj,

I weighed my tongue this morning and I am at 425lbs. with a 3/4 full full fresh, empty black & grey, 1 lp tank-est3gal. 1 battery, and my drawers under the mattress mod. not stocked with hardly anything.

Here's the odd thing, I just bought it on 8/5/2019 new, and was told it was an 2018. And mine was built on 4/5/2017. So this thing sat around for 2 years somewhere. the price was right so I'm ok with that, but do feel cheated a bit. 

Does anyone know the part # for the double step? With the lift I need it. I can't find it anywhere online.

Thanks John

 

I originally installed threaded inserts using the tool kit I bought at harbor freight.

But one of the inserts failed and i replaced all the metal ones with rubber inserts with threads I got at ACE hardware. I saw my old 180 in December and the table is holding up well and has had no issues.

Check near the bottom of page 2 for some pictures.

 I sold this 180 last year, but we recently bought another 180 that i keep at our second home in Virginia near Chesapeake bay, For exploring the east coast.

Cheers John

I did have a few issues with the heater system. While taking a shower it would somehow draw cold water from the setup and my wife would scream at me while trying to shower.

The issue was solved by just turning off the valve i installed near the grill. 

Also this only happened while hooked up to city water so then we then used a small ceramic heater when hooked up. It never seemed to happen while boondocking in cold weather at night on our desert trips during the winter. So I think the city water pressure just was to much for the check valve.

Besides that it worked very well down to an outside temp of 37 degrees, which happened a few times.

But then I had the regular thermostat set to 58 and it would just kick in a few times at night and all was good. I much preferred the heat exchanger due to the quite heat as opposed to the furnace which woke me when it turned on.

We don't plan on doing much cold weather camping out east so i'm not going to put one in the new pod. The lady who bought the 180 Lived in it for a year while her house was being built, and only used the heat exchanger to heat it, But she lives in Santa Barbara and I don't think it ever gets really cold there.

rgds John

we have a Rpod 180 and I like what you did with making two twin beds.  Did you happen to make any plans that you would be willing to share?  I have Polio and find it very difficult to get in and out of the bed and really like the two twins.

Larry Hamblin

lhamblin@telus.net

besides http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=9501&KW=twin+bed+mod&PID=89561&title=4th-180-modtwin-beds#89561 - the link under the picture I have no other info as I make everything up as I go along. I had a video that showed much more but it disappeared off my Google Drive somehow. 

I am Actually thinking of doing it again for my new 180, If I do I'll do a good step by step and let you know.

Having under bed drawers and a nightstand drawer made up for the lack of storage in the 180.

and having the center section out during the day made the pod work so much better.

Cheers John

EDIT found the link!

If you go to page 2 about half way down, of the link above (twin bed mod) I replied to datsmar with a video link that shows much more.

What size of plywood did you use for the two beds?  Did you put a piano hinge on the side where the hot water tank is for winterizing?

Larry 

I used The original plywood and just lift off the single mattress and unscrew a few screws.

see the video i cant seem to link on page 2 of the http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=9501&KW=twin+bed+mod&PN=2&title=4th-180-modtwin-beds - twin bed mod link  about half way down in a response to Datsmar.

cheers John

The green rpod shown in the pictures on page 1 of the slopod 180 mods was stolen out of Santa Barbara CA yesterday 11/9.

While I no longer owned it, (Now have a blue 180) I am friends with the owner, And told her I'd put out the word.

So if you see a green 180 with a window in the back and a table on the side.......

Thanks, John