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171-holding tank support and fender extension?

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Category: R-pod Discussion Forums
Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
Forum Discription: Ask maintenance questions, share your podmods (modifications) and helpful tips
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=9497
Printed Date: 17 May 2024 at 8:04pm
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Topic: 171-holding tank support and fender extension?
Posted By: frozebubba
Subject: 171-holding tank support and fender extension?
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2017 at 1:56pm
I have a 2016 Hood River 171 that I will be getting to know this coming summer and was wondering about a couple of issues.
1) I see no straps supporting the holding tanks and was wondering if an addition like that would be in order if travelling on our ample supply of frost-heaved roads in Alaska?  It appears the tanks are supported by a hidden lip that fits over part of the frame and nothing else.  Any additional info appreciated.
2) Has anyone added additional length to the rear of the left side wheel fender to protect the black and gray water outlets from stone damage if travelling on gravel roads?  Is this even a concern?

Thanks!




Replies:
Posted By: Rustler
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2017 at 2:59pm
Originally posted by frozebubba

I have a 2016 Hood River 171 that I will be getting to know this coming summer and was wondering about a couple of issues.
1) I see no straps supporting the holding tanks and was wondering if an addition like that would be in order if travelling on our ample supply of frost-heaved roads in Alaska?  It appears the tanks are supported by a hidden lip that fits over part of the frame and nothing else.  Any additional info appreciated.
2) Has anyone added additional length to the rear of the left side wheel fender to protect the black and gray water outlets from stone damage if travelling on gravel roads?  Is this even a concern?

Thanks!

I have reported on how mud-flaps were added to the fenders to protect the holding tank dump valves. This was also done to reduce the amount of spray thrown up by the tires during wet weather. My report of this modification can be found on the following link:

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7964&KW=Mud+flap&PID=84570&title=mudflap-to-protect-171-hre-dump-valves#84570 - http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7964&KW=Mud+flap&PID=84570&title=mudflap-to-protect-171-hre-dump-valves#84570

Also regarding the supports for holding tanks, I would recommend checking all of the large sheet metal screws attaching the cross members to the frame. These cross members are what keep the holding tanks in place so that the lip on the tanks you mention can support the tanks. An additional strap under each tank would certainly help. There have been some reports of holding tanks dropping to the pavement during travel. 


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Russ
2009 Toyota RAV4
V6 w/ tow package
2016 Rpod 171 HRE


Posted By: frozebubba
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2017 at 3:04pm
Thanks, Rustler!  Very helpful.


Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2017 at 3:41pm
The holding tanks are "T" shaped and sit down in those brackets. Without losing a bracket, you can't lose a tank.. that said, check the screws holding the brackets to the frame. Brackets have come loose..


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Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2017 at 5:28pm
If you want to look at issue as posted, the ref is a post by Casa Jack, Water Tank Beam, posted 25 JUL 2014. 5 pages of comments. Personally I had gaps and issues with my tank beams, and the 1" by #14 screws that hold the beams on, I corrected my issues. I have a 2015 178.

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Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2017 at 10:08pm
A few references on the tank holding bracket problem:

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7558&KW=washer&PN=1&title=black-tank-fell-from-rpod - http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7558&KW=washer&PN=1&title=black-tank-fell-from-rpod

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=5036&KW=water+tank&PID=48858&title=water-tank-beam#48858 - http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=5036&KW=water+tank&PID=48858&title=water-tank-beam#48858

The problem was common for a while and needs to be fixed. Be sure to replace broken screws and fill any gaps with large washers as described.



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Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: frozebubba
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2017 at 11:18pm
More thanks to everyone.  Looks like I will be spending some time under there checking out integrity of the supports and making/installing some mud flaps.  I think I missed some of the links that were passed along because I did not use advanced search and thus only got the past 6 months results on my searches.  


Posted By: frozebubba
Date Posted: 17 Jun 2017 at 1:45am
Thanks for the tip on the sheet metal screws.  On curb-side, all were loose and needed serious tightening up. On road-side, they were tight.  Guy on the curb-side of the assembly line must have been hung over.


Posted By: Dcmeigs
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2018 at 9:26pm
I found that my 2014 178 had a problem in need of correction. The angle brace has a flange at each end with three holes.  That piece is about 1/4” too short.  It was attached tightly to the port frame member and then had a large gap at the starboard side.  Only two self tapping screws were used it each end, thus leaving one hole without a screw.  Apparently an engineer thought it required three and the guys on the floor decided against that much effort. The screws in the gapped end had not sheared, but a fastener in shear has much less strength than one in tension.  I removed the screws one at a time and added three washers to fill the gap.  I also drilled the frame member and added the third screw to all six locations.  

If you decide to do this, start early and use some superglue and a 1/4 x 20 bolt and nut as a clamp to make yourself some washers of the correct thickness to match the gap.  It’s extremely frustrating to attempt to place one washer, let alone three washers in a blind vertical gap.  This will save you some time and frustration. An even better solution would be to fabricate some shims that match the drilling of the flange.  


Posted By: frogpod
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2018 at 12:10am
The self tapping screws are really cheap.  Mine was missing one of the three at each location and one of the six locations had only one screw. The second had sheared off.  I drilled holes in the center of the frame and installed an actual bolt on each end of each support in addition to the cheap screws.  Took about an hour to complete.  

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Leo and Tami
with Coltrane the Jack Russell Terrier
2010 Rpod 171
2003 Toyota Tacoma TRD


Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2018 at 8:51am
I took mine to the dealer who tightened the screws and closed up the gaps, but sheared one screw off in the process. After that, I still did not like the looks of it so I drilled through and  each bracket now has one stainless steel bolt with stainless steel washers and nylock nuts. If you drill, use a slow speed on the drill as a fast speed is an easy way to overheat the drill and then it gets dull and won't work. I went through several bits. Later I found some Cobalt bits at Home Depot that are much more durable. Even those will become dull eventually. I haven't yet found an effective way to sharpen them.

It isn't just the tank supports though that need work. The black and gray water drains also need better support. See my mods for my solution. I have had the black tank drain support fail twice, both times allowing the end to drag on the pavement. There won't be a third time!


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StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS


Posted By: Ben Herman
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2018 at 9:06am
Originally posted by StephenH

I took mine to the dealer who tightened the screws and closed up the gaps, but sheared one screw off in the process. After that, I still did not like the looks of it so I drilled through and  each bracket now has one stainless steel bolt with stainless steel washers and nylock nuts. If you drill, use a slow speed on the drill as a fast speed is an easy way to overheat the drill and then it gets dull and won't work. I went through several bits. Later I found some Cobalt bits at Home Depot that are much more durable. Even those will become dull eventually. I haven't yet found an effective way to sharpen them.

It isn't just the tank supports though that need work. The black and gray water drains also need better support. See my mods for my solution. I have had the black tank drain support fail twice, both times allowing the end to drag on the pavement. There won't be a third time!

StephenH - one thing that I've found helpful when drilling through the steel on the Pod - put a few drops of 3&1 oil on the bit when starting the hole and partway through - saves the bit from overheating. Just be careful if drilling overhead, don't want drops of hot oil landing on your face (don't ask me how I know).


Posted By: GlueGuy
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2018 at 9:32am
Originally posted by Ben Herman

StephenH - one thing that I've found helpful when drilling through the steel on the Pod - put a few drops of 3&1 oil on the bit when starting the hole and partway through - saves the bit from overheating. Just be careful if drilling overhead, don't want drops of hot oil landing on your face (don't ask me how I know).
+1 A little dab of "cutting oil" (and 3-in-1 is a great alternative) makes a bit cut a lot better & keeps it cool too. Depending on the situation, I will put a drop or two on the piece being drilled, or I will put a few drops in a thimble or other small available depression and dip the drill bit into it. Drill until it starts looking a little hot, then dip the bit again (or drop another drop).


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bp
2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River
2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost


Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2018 at 9:53am
Yes, I should have used cutting oil to help keep the bits from overheating. Next time I have to drill, I will try to remember to do so.

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StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS


Posted By: Pod People
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2018 at 3:09pm
Another good idea for drilling into any metal is to use a smaller bit first to drill a piilot hole. Then the second (larger)bit will have a much easier time.
Vann


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Vann & Laura 2015 RPod 179
https://postimg.cc/0zwKrfB9">


Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2018 at 3:14pm
+1 to Pilot Podder and pilot hole.

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Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."


Posted By: crankster78
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2018 at 4:17pm
Greetings

I have the lift kit on my R-179.  So I got a couple of heavy truck mud flaps, cut them to size used some stainless steel bolts to fasten them to the fender. They go past the center point of the tire and stay down in place when driving down the road.  they help keep the back sides clean.

Crankster78


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Crankster 78 R-179 2015


Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2018 at 4:23pm
+1 to all of the above, I have a reinforced black tank drain, mud flaps and bolts thru my frame securing tank rails, all thanks to this forum. Sincerely appreciate the input from old and new members.

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Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."


Posted By: GlueGuy
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2018 at 7:25pm
And if you don't want the pilot drill to walk all over the place, you can use a center punch to mark the spot.

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bp
2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River
2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost



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