Solar generators

Just for clarification, when I hear the term "solar generator" I think of course, of a generator. In reality, are these basically self charging batteries?  Just a normal 12 volt battery, that also has maybe a small inverter or converter, that allows very small electric appliances to run, but recharges itself with a solar suitcase or panel? So it's not at all a generator in the sense of the word. I'm not looking for the " well technically it could be called a generator because....." 

They are packeges consisting of sall solar modules connected via a charge controller to a battery. Both the solar modules and battery are DC devices. The battery in turn runs and inverter which produces ac output from the dc battery input. So, not a generator at all.

The problem with using one of these packages in lieu of an actual generator is that they produce very limited energy output. Energy is power x time so one might have a 1500 watt power capacity but can only produce this for a few minutes before the battery is discharged. in comparison a generator will run as long as you have fuel to power it.

The other issue is that it would be terribly inefficient as most of the load devices in the trailer are 12Vdc and are charged by the onboard converter.So you would be taking DC output from your solar modules, using it to charge a battery, then converting that to ac to feed to the trailer, then converting it back to DC to charge the trailer battery, then finally to the end load device in the trailer.   You would lose at least half the energy you had available if you just charge the trailer battery directly from the solar modules.

You can get portable solar modules and a charge controller which can directly charge the trailer battery without having to be permanently mounted, so they can be used for other things. That is they way most folks do it and a much more efficient solution than one of those package systems.

I know the Rpod already has a solar connector. So do I need to get a controller if I decide to the portable solar panel route and hook up to the solar port on the side? Thanks.

The "solar ready" rpods just have wires pulled for a solar connection, no controller, no fuses.

There is no reason at all you have to use them. You can also connect directly to your trailer battery if that is more convenient. In my opinion for a portable system it is. Why suffer from voltage losses (which at 12V can be significant) just to get to the rear of the trailer from the front, if you're going to connect a portable kit anyway?

Either way you connect, starting from the battery, you need an inline fuse at the battery +12v terminal to protect the wire to your controller. Next comes the controller, then the solar module. You will have a +12V and a negative connection to make between each. That's all there is to the electrical connections, very simple.

I would suggest using a minimum of 12 gauge wire and wire run of at least 25 feet so you can move your portable solar module to a nearby sunny spot. A 15 amp fuse would be good back at the battery.

A 100 to 120 watt solar module works well for most people. Get a glass/aluminum frame module, not a so-called flexible module. Pretty much any brand will be fine, you do not need to pay extra for one of the RV name brands. Be sure it has the right voltage for 12V battery charging (max power voltage around 17-18V is what you're looking for).

You can attach some fold up aluminum back legs to the module so you can tilt it up, just a couple pieces of small aluminum angle bolted to the frame and allowed to rotate will work fine.

For controllers, a simple PWM type will work for a basic system. You can mount that to the battery box, inside a front storage area, or to the back of the solar module. Or both. Your choice. The controller should be rated for 15 to 20 amps.

The cable can be hardwired at the solar module end with a connector at the trailer end or vice versa. An inexpensive way to make up a nice flexible cable would be to buy a heavy duty 12 gauge extension cord and cut the connectors off at both ends Dont use the 120Vac connectors for 12V, that creates a safety hazard down the road when someone could inadvertently connect 120V there. The Anderson connectors StephenH suggests are a good choice.

That's just fine. But it should still get a fuse at the battery end. The "solar ready" connector on the rpod doesn't provide one, so if the kit you get doesn't provide one either you can just get an inline fuse holder from NAPA or online and a 15A fuse and add it.