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Olddawgsrule View Drop Down
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Posts: 1014 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: My Mods on Lily
    Posted: 23 Apr 2018 at 3:56pm
Yes that's your basic wire shelving used upside down. And yes, I will need cargo netting to keep it all in place.

Ya'll have a good supplier of cargo netting you wish to share? I'm looking!!!
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Olddawgsrule View Drop Down
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Posts: 1014 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2018 at 3:52pm
With battery testing underway, it is time to move on to storage.

First is the corner of the 182g. With the upper bunk removed (partially) it opens up storage area. That corner has always been in my mind as a good spot.

Then comes the balance of the area. Just what will fit comfortably.

and another option

The wife likes and now wants one up front.. That means finding roof support to attach brackets. This I could use some advise on. I have a 'stud finder' that will detect wires, but scared as heck to still hit a wire..

Thoughts on supporting?? Finding a safe place to put a screw?? I'm sure there's a diagram out there somewhere that shows where Forest River ran those wires..
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Olddawgsrule View Drop Down
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Posts: 1014 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2018 at 3:38pm
Well Guys, your the Electronic Engineers, you tell me. Maybe I should have left the Solar cable on the other side of the shunt..

I have the shunt and the Solar cable hooked to the negative terminal. The Solar cable does not run through the shunt. I would have to mount that cable on the other end.

The reason for not going that way was that the shunt is not directional, but the meter is. With a 50/50 chance of wiring to the shunt correctly, I had it backwards the first time it it did not read. Switching the wires brought the meter online. Reason I believe I would need a second unit to read Solar input.
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Olddawgsrule View Drop Down
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Posts: 1014 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 2018 at 3:26pm
The wiring needs to be short, so maybe outside for both under the battery cover. The shunt and meter can go inside, but I haven't pulled the panel out yet (which I do plan to do) and see what kind of room I have there. Shunt and all would then go inside. Yet to be seen.. decided upon...

Now, this meter (not being one of the $250 Big Boys) will not read in reverse. So I will not get a read of shore/solar input. I know, wish it did, but nay.. I could setup a second on the Solar side (which I may) to measure input (reason I was attempting to confirm what the smaller gauge wire from the unit was). The shore power side of things I really don't care about. I spend 3 days a week (which I will be while on Tour) I will charge back to full. It's the 4 other days I need to watch (or if we decide to stay 'wild' and away from the RV Park). And actually it's those runs of low Sun input (which is typical in the Nor'east) that concerns me the most. Again reason for a second meter on the solar side of things.
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GlueGuy View Drop Down
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Posts: 2629 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2018 at 7:58pm
Originally posted by DavMar

I'm more then familiar with with what a shunt is and good ole Ohm's law since I spent my working days in electronics. What I couldn't see or understand was how this device that Oldawgsrule installed was wired, the shunt, and that he first said that this meter used a coil to sense voltage which means it had to be induced voltage aka AC. So thanks to his explanation and his newest photo I better understand what he's up to doing with this device. So is the plan to leave the shunt outside by the battery and run the wiring into the Pod and mount the meter somewhere inside?
Anywhere between the things you want to measure. If the solar bypasses the shunt, then the solar input can't be measured (for example). Put it in the battery box and all the inputs/outputs would measure everything going as well as everything going out (solar as well as shore power).
bp
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DavMar View Drop Down
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Posts: 592 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2018 at 7:35pm
I'm more then familiar with with what a shunt is and good ole Ohm's law since I spent my working days in electronics. What I couldn't see or understand was how this device that Oldawgsrule installed was wired, the shunt, and that he first said that this meter used a coil to sense voltage which means it had to be induced voltage aka AC. So thanks to his explanation and his newest photo I better understand what he's up to doing with this device. So is the plan to leave the shunt outside by the battery and run the wiring into the Pod and mount the meter somewhere inside?
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GlueGuy View Drop Down
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Posts: 2629 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2018 at 6:27pm
A shunt is just a wire, or wire-like thing that has a known resistance, AKA "voltage drop". All shunts are designed to provide a known value for a given range of current. If you have a meter that is matched to the shunt, it will give a direct reading of the current. From the current, you can calculate the voltage and power. Good old Ohm's law.

Shunts that carry a lot of current can be pretty darn hefty, or else they might melt, and provide the "fuse" function you mentioned.
bp
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Olddawgsrule View Drop Down
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Posts: 1014 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2018 at 4:32pm
Did a 4hr run on the battery using the frig.
I have 375 watts used. At voltage shown, 7.62 amps per hour/ 94 watts per hour. Or 30amps used.
The onboard station says full charge (after 1/2hr rest), but I know it's not. 

Ya, it's important to know and why I'm going through all this. I do wish to have power while boon docking and 'know' what I have left.

Ya, I'm weird like this.. LOL
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Olddawgsrule View Drop Down
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Posts: 1014 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2018 at 4:29pm
Originally posted by DavMar

Originally posted by Olddawgsrule

18hr test. Looks about right.
228ma average (240ma if you wish to use the 12v baseline, I used standing voltage at 12.7)

Okay Oldawgsrule help this poor soul out because now you have me completely confused! First I thought you said this unit picked up the voltage by induction using a coil which means it has to be sensing AC and I assumed, maybe stupidly, that it rectified this induced voltage to DC for your reading. Now you say it uses a shunt to read the DC voltage and current? Since I really can't make out heads or tails from your photo, sorry maybe its my faulty eyes, how about drawing out a schematic of what you did for your test set up take a photo of that then post it, hmmm? It would also be helpful if you can show how and where you plan on using this meter in your Pod if you decided to use it.

On a topic completely off subject how do you like your 2017 SR5 is it a 4x4?

Thanks!

Okay, Let's simplify this.

I bought a unit that I thought stated it could read DC current through a coil unit. Hopes were that technology had come along and it could. It can not.. We're not there yet (or at least marketing has not).

Confusion came in as others stated it can't happen, yet I was willing to give it a go, at my expense and see where it lands. I do know that there are ways, just not this unit or for anyone to buy.

Now, the unit that does work involves what is called a 'shunt'. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shunt_(electrical)
Basically, well a fuse of types, that allows current to pass through. by connecting to, with a meter allows you to read current/amperage/wattage running through. I say fuse of sorts cause it will blow is over amperage, just like a fuse.

One end of the Shunt connects to the negative terminal of the battery. The other end is where you connect you supply cable. Sounds like a fuse now, doesn't it.. The meter has two connections, before and after the shunt. Small wires because not much is passing through it but, and important, it passes through it. This gives it a 'real' reading. 

When you look at the picture and see that black thing with two silver ends, that's the Shunt (or fuse of sorts). The nuts are the connections in and out on both ends. The two little screws you see are where the meter hooks in. 

The meter also has two more wires that connect to the positive and negative terminals to give real time voltage. So 4 wires in all and a shunt.

It's not a scary thing to do and if you need, well worth the few minutes to hook up.

Ask away if you have more questions or I did not explain well enough. Always willing to assist s fellow Rpod'er.
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DavMar View Drop Down
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Posts: 592 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Apr 2018 at 3:07pm
Originally posted by Olddawgsrule

18hr test. Looks about right.
228ma average (240ma if you wish to use the 12v baseline, I used standing voltage at 12.7)

Okay Oldawgsrule help this poor soul out because now you have me completely confused! First I thought you said this unit picked up the voltage by induction using a coil which means it has to be sensing AC and I assumed, maybe stupidly, that it rectified this induced voltage to DC for your reading. Now you say it uses a shunt to read the DC voltage and current? Since I really can't make out heads or tails from your photo, sorry maybe its my faulty eyes, how about drawing out a schematic of what you did for your test set up take a photo of that then post it, hmmm? It would also be helpful if you can show how and where you plan on using this meter in your Pod if you decided to use it.

On a topic completely off subject how do you like your 2017 SR5 is it a 4x4?

Thanks!
Dave & Marlene J with Zoey the
wonder dog.
2017 Rpod 180
2016 Toyota Tacoma SR5 4x4
Lexington, NC
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