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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Marker Lights
    Posted: 04 Nov 2018 at 9:23am
Not having used the Dicor Lap Sealant I would guess that it is intended to cover over top of seams so its exposed surface will skin over. The butyl is intended to be compressed in a joint and does not skin over, it stays sticky pretty much forever. Different applications. Dicor also makes a butyl tape btw. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2018 at 9:04am
I was patching up a crack in the flimsy plastic AC cover on the roof yesterday, making a temporary repair until I can locate a new one.  [Not topic drift, but context Wink]  When I read the additions to this post this morning, it occurred to me that you could make a gasket [just a cut out the shape of the bottom of the fixture] with Eternabond tape put it were you want  your light fixture and then mount the fixture on  a well attached but somewhat squishy surface.  

That stuff sticks like crazy and is soft enough that the fixture could be well seated into it.  Seems like it wouldn't be much different from butyl rubber tape, only white on the surface.  Some have said it gets a little hard in the cold, but in the coldest we have here, teens, it's still relatively pliable.

So, tomorrow I start my search for the AC cover and if I run into problems will start a  new topic.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2018 at 8:08am
There is another Dicor product made for vertical surfaces. That is Non Sag 551LSW.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2018 at 6:25am
 No one mentions yet "Dicor Lap Sealant". 

I did an internet search and one guy said, "It is made to cover horizontal seams and cracks ..."

Why not Dicor?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2018 at 6:21am
   I ordered from amazon.com the 3M 4200 white sealant. The lights are attached with two screws so what I need most is to keep the base of the lights waterproof.    Thank you all for your help
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 2018 at 1:47am
+1 for butyl tape combined with mechanical fasteners. Conforms to surfaces, will compress into threads to help seal them, stays flexible, sticky and adheres very will but is not difficult to remove later when needed. Not messy. You can create little o-rings of it by rolling it into a little strings and placing it around fasteners. Some folks even make o-ring gaps by using a chamfer bit to open the edges of mounting holes a little. 

If there are no solid mechanical fasteners so the sealant also has to act as an adhesive then 5200 is probably the best bet. 

I'm interested in understanding the dual buytl/4200 procedure. I've always thought of both as alternative sealants so I'm curious how the combo works? 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov 2018 at 9:11pm
Regarding 3M 5200, I've never had a problem getting it off fiberglass. I used it to seal the soft plastic spoiler after the dealer did a less than workman like job installing it.  Because the spoiler was so soft, it lifted even off the 5200.  I cleaned it off with a razor scraper, being careful not to cut into the fiberglass and cleaned up with acetone, if I recall correctly.  

I agree with Kevinscamps about silicone.  The butyl tape sounds like a good idea.  
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov 2018 at 7:42pm
Silicone is often used wrong. Silicone works fine when sealed under something sort of like a liquid rubber gasket., but is a disaster as a caulk because its adhesive properties are crappy. Best practice is butyl putty tape under the lip of the lights, then 3m 4200 as caulk around the outside. 5200 not such a good idea around a consumable like a light that might someday need replacing.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Nov 2018 at 6:29pm
Just forget about ever removing it if you use 5200...
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Nov 2018 at 6:06pm
I'm a contrary one, thus use 3M 5200, which I used to use as a bedding compound in my Newport 30 MkII.  That stuff will still be working for your grand children.
Never leave footprints behind.
Fred & Maria Kearney
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