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Wintering question

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JoeSaint View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote JoeSaint Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Wintering question
    Posted: 08 Oct 2019 at 8:11pm
2020 171, I drained low point, drained heater and never use the fresh water tank but took cap off anyway. Before I blow it out, do you close heater bypass or put anode back in? Also do you leave anode rod out for winter? Thx
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Tars Tarkas View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Tars Tarkas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Oct 2019 at 8:31pm
The water heater should be in bypass mode.  It's a good idea to put the anode back in, maybe just loosely, to keep critters out.

TT
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote CharlieM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Oct 2019 at 9:31pm
The only purpose for the bypass valves is to prevent antifreeze solution from filling the WH during winterization. If you use air to blow out the system there's no real use for the bypass valves. I would leave them in the normal position until you get all water blown out of hot and cold pipes. They must be in normal position and the anode in place to properly blow out the hot water pipes and faucets. You could then open the cross valve just to keep it from accumulating water. The more open valves the better during storage, including the low point caps. Be sure to reset next Spring. 
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Tars Tarkas View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Tars Tarkas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Oct 2019 at 10:22pm
Charlie, your line of thinking is why I suggested bypassing the water heater.  With  the WH bypassed there's no air getting past the bypass valves and out the anode opening.  No need to blow out the WH with the anode removed.  And with the WH bypassed all of the hot (and cold) pipes can be blown out.  I don't see why you say the WH valves need to be in their normal (meaning summer) positions to blow out the hot water lines.

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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote CharlieM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Oct 2019 at 8:07am
Originally posted by Tars Tarkas

Charlie, your line of thinking is why I suggested bypassing the water heater.  With  the WH bypassed there's no air getting past the bypass valves and out the anode opening.  No need to blow out the WH with the anode removed.  And with the WH bypassed all of the hot (and cold) pipes can be blown out.  I don't see why you say the WH valves need to be in their normal (meaning summer) positions to blow out the hot water lines.

TT

Tars,
After careful consideration and a little thinking....YOU'RE RIGHT Approve. Air will blow through the cross valve and blow out all the hot pipes. A temporary disconnect between the headphones. That said I still like all valves open. Depending on how a valve is oriented, any residual water that collects or drains back could freeze in the valve and crack it. I agree on the WH. A bit of water remaining on the bottom will do no harm.

Thanks for fact checking me.
Charlie
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JoeSaint View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote JoeSaint Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Oct 2019 at 8:28pm
I may have to check tomorrow to see if I’m closing the right valve on the heater. But I blew it out with the water heater bypassed, (I think). I noticed that I wouldn’t get anything out of the hot water in sink and faucet in wet bath. So I opened the valve on heater along with putting anode rod back in and did it again and got a small spatter of water on hot side. Next will be rev antifreeze 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Tars Tarkas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Oct 2019 at 9:45pm
Make sure you know how to turn the valves on the water heater.  In case you don't know, you do not want antifreeze in the water heater or the fresh water tank.  There are plenty of people who can help if you have any questions.

TT
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Post Options Post Options   Quote JoeSaint Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Oct 2019 at 8:08pm
I had closed only one of the valves, the bottom one. I closed off both to bypass the heater and blew it out one more time. Then I ran RA thru lines and into drains. I think it went well. Do I leave the low point drains open or closed..
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Tars Tarkas View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Tars Tarkas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Oct 2019 at 10:00pm
The protocol for antifreeze is to first get as much water out of the sytem as possible.  Pump off, open all valves, remove the caps from the low point drains and the fresh water tank.  Let the water run out.  (The method is different for blowing air out under pressure.)  With all pressure relieved from the system, remove the anode from the water heater, let it drain.  Put the WH bypass valves in the winter bypass positions.  Don't guess.  Different Pods have different bypass methods.  For most older Pods the outer valves are closed and the middle valve is open.

With all water out of the system, close all valves and cap the low point drains.  Put the antifreeze suction hose in a jug of antifreeze, open the valve on the suction hose, turn on the pump.  Now it's handy to have a helper.  As the antifreeze is sucked up, opne one valve at a time until pink starts coming out.  Sink hot, sink cold, shower hot... outside shower, toilet.  It might take more than one jug of antifreeze.  Turn off pump, close the suction hose valve.  Poor a little antifreeze in the toilet and leave it.  Pour about a cup in the shower and sink(s) traps.

Some people do nothing more than blow out all of the lines.  The bottom line is, however you do it, all water must be out of the lines and valves.  Either way, antifreeze in the toilet and traps is important.

TT
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jato View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote jato Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct 2019 at 3:01pm
TT is correct as usual.  For the past 7 years after blowing out the lines with compressed air I measure a total of 16 oz. RV antifreeze and pour into the 2 sink and 1 shower trap on my 177.  It leaves a little left over to pour into the toilet, to keep the seal moist throughout the winter months.  So here I am on year 8 finally going to use up my 1 gallon of RV antifreeze that I purchased in 2012 for 79 cents.  Don't even have a clue what RV antifreeze costs nowdays but am sure it will be more than what I paid for it 8 years ago.
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