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Topic Closed182G New A/C Install

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crw8sr View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: 182G New A/C Install
    Posted: 20 May 2020 at 5:31pm
Ours factory installed A/C is so noisy we rarely use it.  I'm always on the look out for something better.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2020 at 4:39pm
With a portable you need to vent the hot air from the condenser out, not just the condensate water from the evaporator. That makes them inefficient because most of them have only one vent so have to bring in hot outside air to make up for that exhaust air. Plus it will always be getting in the way.  As to btu requirements, on a 90 to 95-ish degree high humidity day in NC I was getting about a 50% duty cycle on the 13.5K unit, so about 7K BTU/hr heat load. Its a small space but has a lot of poorly insulated wall, ceiling, and window surfaces. You need some additional capacity to pull down the temp in a reasonable amount of time when you get to camp so that's why I think that a 9K will be OK. But 5K  just wouldn't cut it even if all that 5K BTU/hr was going for cooling the interior and not wasted cooling down the exhaust make up air. I'd go with the roof mount.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2020 at 4:25pm
If I do go the the roof mounted route I'm going with Coleman 9K BTU low profile.  Found the top and non ducted underpiece for under $700 total plus shipping. My R-pod is prewired up to the skylight with it's own dedicated 20 amp circuit, so connection should be simple.  Still debating as to trying a small portable and venting the drain pipe outside through the window above the kitchen sink.  Anybody trie this and have any suggestions for a portable?  Preferably something not to large, I think 5,000 BTUs would be more than enough, my rig is only about 85 sq feet from front to back.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 May 2020 at 4:56pm
I get what OG's sayin'.. I also don't wish to bugger too deep in somethin' new. 

If you like what you have as a base to work up from, then why not? What really is the limit? 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 May 2020 at 12:12pm
I kinda feel the opposite, I wouldn't want to take the risk of buggering up a new trailerStar. And I haven't bought a new vehicle or trailer in - uh, well, I can't remember that far back. Besides, I'm a cheap old guy, I keep my stuff pretty much forever, as long as its still working anyhow. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 May 2020 at 11:34am
Originally posted by offgrid

No need to cut into the frame with a mini split other than a 3 or so inch hole for the refrigerant tubing. The interior evaporator unit hangs on the wall. It only weighs about 20 lbs so screwing a aluminum plate into the wall framing (which is 1x1 aluminum tubing) and then attaching the evaporator to the plate should work. The condenser can mount on the tongue where the batteries are. On my 179 I would have to move my propane tank forward slightly and bolt or weld on brackets to mount the condenser on. I would need a cover for the condenser to avoid damage from road debris while towing. The batteries would need to be relocated to the interior of the trailer, I would change them for lithium ones at that point. Then I would need to route the two refrigerant lines, a condensate drip line, and a power line from the condenser to the evaporator. All that is bundled together in about a 3 inch diameter circle, which would be routed out at the front bottom of the trailer. The units some precharged so in theory you don't need am a/c tech to pull a vacuum on the lines when installing. They make a cover for the tubing which would be visible inside the trailer until it dived through the corner of the bed into the area where the water heater is under the mattress. 

But its definitely not for the faint of heart, its a major mod with a lot of little things to sort out or it could go wrong. The payoff is the top of the trailer is clear, the a/c is whisper quiet inside and out, energy usage is cut in half, and its a heat pump as well. I plan on covering the top of the trailer with solar modules, leaving a couple of inches of air space for cooling and the vents underneath. 



I can see doing all of that on a brand new trailer ordered with no roof A/C installed, but on yours, being a 2015 model, and presumably about halfway thru it's expected service life...man I'm just not seeing the payback...ROI, in other words is not there. Or so it seems to me.  

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 May 2020 at 10:29am
They make flush mounted cassette evaporators for installation in ceiling cavities that you would need to build a cover for where it came up through the roof, they're about 10 inches tall but much smaller than a roof a/c.  But the condensers are all for ground or wall mounting. Some folks have mounted them on the rear bumper. The refrigerant lines would have to lead up the outside wall which might be pretty funky. Placing the condenser above the evaporator creates some problems with oil migration that have to be worked out. 
'
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 May 2020 at 10:08am
Someone could make a killing by making a mini split where the condenser could be mounted on the roof, and the evaporator could be ceiling mounted directly underneath.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 May 2020 at 8:57am
No need to cut into the frame with a mini split other than a 3 or so inch hole for the refrigerant tubing. The interior evaporator unit hangs on the wall. It only weighs about 20 lbs so screwing a aluminum plate into the wall framing (which is 1x1 aluminum tubing) and then attaching the evaporator to the plate should work. The condenser can mount on the tongue where the batteries are. On my 179 I would have to move my propane tank forward slightly and bolt or weld on brackets to mount the condenser on. I would need a cover for the condenser to avoid damage from road debris while towing. The batteries would need to be relocated to the interior of the trailer, I would change them for lithium ones at that point. Then I would need to route the two refrigerant lines, a condensate drip line, and a power line from the condenser to the evaporator. All that is bundled together in about a 3 inch diameter circle, which would be routed out at the front bottom of the trailer. The units some precharged so in theory you don't need am a/c tech to pull a vacuum on the lines when installing. They make a cover for the tubing which would be visible inside the trailer until it dived through the corner of the bed into the area where the water heater is under the mattress. 

But its definitely not for the faint of heart, its a major mod with a lot of little things to sort out or it could go wrong. The payoff is the top of the trailer is clear, the a/c is whisper quiet inside and out, energy usage is cut in half, and its a heat pump as well. I plan on covering the top of the trailer with solar modules, leaving a couple of inches of air space for cooling and the vents underneath. 


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 May 2020 at 8:22am
Thank you!  I'm looking at alternatives to the roof mounted unit as well. Your idea of a mini- split is very fascinating. After reading other posts, losing the light and air flow from the current free skylight in the center of our roof has me a bit hesitant to block it up with an A/C roof unit.  I like the idea of being able to open up that window to let hot air vent out naturally and it also lets a ton of light in right now.  I haven't found any small portable units that make any sense at this point.  Putting a mini split or regular window A/C unit above the bed would be a great option but I'd be terrified to do that myself.  Cutting into the frame does not seems like something I would ever be comfortable doing.  Going to keep researching for now, campgrounds are still closed here for at least 3 more weeks here so we won't be going anywhere soon.
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