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Topic Closed2021 RPOD 190 water/electric ? - Event Date: 10 Jun 2020
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jaymed03 View Drop Down
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Posts: 4 		Direct Link To This Post Calendar Event: 2021 RPOD 190 water/electric ?
    Posted: 11 Jun 2020 at 2:37pm
Congratulations Andy!  We just bought a 192 and will bring it home next week.  I have never owned a camper so my question is, if all I want to do is run the A/C for a few hours while loading up and getting it ready for the first trip can I use an adapter and just hook into a 110 outlet?  Unfortunately, we live in a townhouse so I have to store it somewhere else so adding a 30amp to the house is not an option.  Thanks.
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Andyrpod190 View Drop Down
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Posts: 40 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2020 at 3:04pm
Hi There!

   Since we still dont have ours yet, I am guessing that like the fridge it should be able to be run on LP. You will need to verify that. I also dont know your answer to your question but I have also heard that you can use that adapter to plug into 110 outlet I just dont know the restrictions.

Still learning! 
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Pod_Geek View Drop Down
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Posts: 260 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2020 at 3:18pm
Originally posted by Andyrpod190

Thanks. I am thinking of this one for now. Provides sure protection, will power off if fluctuations are within certain parms and power back on when power stablizes.


At a price of $209 seems like a good balance.

Interesting unit.  Don't recall it being available when I bought my autoformer.

I do see that my 30-amp autoformer will start boosting if the voltage drops below 114V, whereas this unit will cut your power if the voltage drops below 104V.  My question for the electrical experts is: What are the consequences of running your RV appliances for hours at, say, 108V, which the "watchdog" apparently would allow?
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StephenH View Drop Down
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Posts: 6289 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2020 at 3:21pm
If it is a 20A outlet, you will not have a problem running the AC. However, running both AC and refrigerator at the same time on AC might be a problem. If it is a 15A outlet, it is likely that if there is anything else on the circuit, you won't be able to run the AC. It may start, but it will likely eventually trip the breaker. That is my experience. Besides, when you plug it in, the converter will be trying to charge your battery. That in itself will rule out running the AC until it reaches float mode. As for the refrigerator, if it has the capability to run on LP, that would be best if you can get the RPod close to level while you are loading it. It will take about 24 hours to cool down. The rule is to pre-chill things that you want to put in there. Don't expect it to be able to cool a load of warm items very well..

Jaymed, I hope you disconnected the battery or have a cut-off switch. You might get there and find you have a dead battery if you didn't. There are some items such as the LP/CO detector which can't be disconnected and which are a constant power drain. Add to this that Pb-Acid batteries self-discharge and a dead battery is likely unless you have periodically checked and charged it.
StephenH
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Posts: 5290 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 2020 at 6:45pm
Originally posted by Pod_Geek

 
I do see that my 30-amp autoformer will start boosting if the voltage drops below 114V, whereas this unit will cut your power if the voltage drops below 104V.  My question for the electrical experts is: What are the consequences of running your RV appliances for hours at, say, 108V, which the "watchdog" apparently would allow?


The formal spec for residential line voltage in the us is 120Vac +-5% so 114 to 126Vac. That's I'm sure why the Hughes autotransformer cuts in at 114. Can't argue with that. But in reality the loads in your trailer (or your house) aren't that sensitive to voltage variation. They would be damaged much more frequently than they are, its not like utility line voltage is always within spec. The only load in the trailer that won't like really low voltage is the air conditioner. And 108 isn't that low. I'd be more concerned about high voltage (which can happen with an open neutral at the panel or utility transformer) cooking the converter. 
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Andyrpod190 View Drop Down
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Posts: 40 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jun 2020 at 2:06pm
Hello again....

    Looks like I should be getting my new 190 in the next few weeks. I am at a disadvantage as buying this through a wholesaler in Ohio who I am paying to tow out to New Hampshire. So wont be getting any in person demo of how everything works.

   Since I have factory solar with 2 - 12 V deep cycle batteries in Parallel which I will request, I am wondering what position the switches in the camper need to be since I will be leaving this plugged into my 30amp outside power outlet? Will both the solar and house/wired power be charging the batteries or is there some switch that I need to turn off?

  Also where is the switch for the refridg to put it on battery, LP or wired electrical? I assume that is the only appliance that can run on LP? So when driving/towing does it just runs on battery that is constantly being charged by tow vehicle?

  Also I assume I need to put some tablets in the black water tank initially? Would this be done following every time you pump the black water tank out?

   What about the fresh water 36 gallon tank? Does it need any chlorine tablet?

     I see people are using water filters for drinking and some folks just bringing gallon water separately for drinking. Does the filter go between the city water/hose line and the camper or somewhere under the kitchen sink? 

Thanks in advance Smile
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StephenH View Drop Down
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Posts: 6289 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jun 2020 at 2:52pm
You don't need chlorine tablets. You can use standard household bleach (make sure it is just bleach, not bleach with detergents for cleaning) to sanitize the tank. You can find sufficient information in a search for the process of sanitizing as well as winterizing and de-winterizing.

I can't help you with factory solar as we don't have that except for the connector in our 2016 RP179.

The refrigerator switch should be on the refrigerator's control panel.

I use a biological agent such as TankTech's RX, Unique Products RV Digest-It, Happy Camper, etc. in the black tank. Avoid any product that contains formaldehyde. Some only mask the odor. The biological ones help break things down. They do need to be added every time the tank is emptied along with some water. The additive package will give you instructions.

We use a Camco Taste-Pure filter when we fill our tank and when we connect to city water. I have an elbow that screws on to the filter's outlet and then into the fitting on the RPod for city water or to a filler tube for filling the tank. That way, it filters the water going through the hose as well. Don't forget about a pressure limiter to keep the pressure to 50-55 psi or below. That will keep your water lines from getting damaged by excess pressure.

You actually will have a 30 gallon fresh water tank. The six extra gallons are the capacity of the water heater. Before you turn that on, make sure you find the isolation valves and turn them so that the tank can fill. Verify by going outside and opening the cover and then use the pressure relief valve to ensure water comes out and not just air. Unfortunately, you will not be getting this demonstrated at a walk-through so you will need to research it to find wher ethey are or have a knowledgeable local friend help you while you learn how to use your RPod.
StephenH
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ouR escaPOD mods
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Posts: 40 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jun 2020 at 3:24am
Thanks for the great advice as always! 

Now for Leveling. I bought pads for the jacks. I know that leveling is required for the fridge to work correctly. 


Also would you recommend a carpenters level inside the rpod on the floor when leveling side to side and front to back?
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Posts: 5290 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jun 2020 at 5:34am
I use two packs of  leveling blocks (aka legos) and a bullseye level. The legos are light, work fine and pack away nice, and you can also put them under the tongue jack and stabilizing jacks to minimize cranking on those.

The level stays in my silverware drawer where I can toss it on the floor by the door when setting up. If I get withing a half bubble I call it good. One trick if you have one of the three support points on softer soil is to start with that point half a bubble high so when it settles (and it will) you end up about right. 

Do not use the stabilizing jacks for any leveling work at all. They and the trailer frame are not designed to carry any load. Once I have things where I want them using the legos then I crank the stabilizers down until they make contact, no further. 
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StephenH View Drop Down
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Posts: 6289 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jun 2020 at 9:02am
Originally posted by Andyrpod190

Thanks for the great advice as always! 

Now for Leveling. I bought pads for the jacks. I know that leveling is required for the fridge to work correctly. 


Also would you recommend a carpenters level inside the rpod on the floor when leveling side to side and front to back?
The Andersen leveler is good, but only up to 4". It is what I use most often. However, anything more than that and you will still need something capable of raising the side higher such as the Lynx or Camco stacking blocks.

I bought one of these and it is good to get the RPod relatively level. Hopkins Smart-Level I still use a small torpedo level inside to verify though. I did not want to put screws through the side of the RPod, so I have mine attached with double-sided tape. Since it does not sit fully tight to the wall, it does have a bit of wiggle room so that is why I verify. The lights are great as I can see in my rear-view mirror when the RPod is level side-to-side. Then I can unhitch and do the front-to-rear leveling. If you go to the site linked, mine is the first review in the list.
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS
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