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Eubank44 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: The blow out trip
    Posted: 13 Oct 2020 at 3:31pm
Thought I would join in. Decided to pull my 171 from central Kentucky to Michigan last summer. AC cover came  partially off as I was going through Indy. Pulled in to a Lowes and secured top. About 30 miles north of Indy I blew left tire, partially removing fender and lights. Put on spare tire and pulled to a Love's about 5 miles up road. Spent night there and returned to Indy and had two new tires installed. Decided to not wait for 3rd event and returned home. Straightened and installed fender and lights and repaired AC cover with FLexGlue caulk reinforced with ss washers. I use stainless screws on everything. Indianapolis Lowes and Loves very helpful could not have been nicer.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2020 at 7:18pm
Originally posted by offgrid

It’s going to be concealed by the fender right?

That is correct.
Tom B in MO USA
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2020 at 6:47pm
Got it. If you’re not using the 5200 as adhesive I’d use something else as a sealant. It’s going to be concealed by the fender right? If so you and you don’t really want it to stick things together, just something simple like butyl caulk will do.
1994 Chinook Concourse
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2020 at 4:50pm
Originally posted by offgrid

Sure, if you just run a bead of 5200 over the mating surface that should seal the holes fine. Clean things up first of course. That fender isn’t coming off after that, not without taking the Fiberglas with it anyway...

I get that from your post earlier about the binding strength of the compound however, as I stated, the old holes don't match up with the new fender as also seen in the photos I sent (and one that I couldn't seem to get posted).  My question was more pointed toward if I could just use that as a hole filler without the fender mating to it.  I've decided that my fender will be held with screws and the double stick tape to hold it in place while I put the screws in, just like at the factory.  Will I be more diligent about making sure my tires are good?  Of course, but if the worst should happen again, I really don't want to replace a large hunk of my camper wall.  This particular blow out trip only has ended up costing me about $300 in tires and replacement hardware and fenders and such.  I would have had to dip into my comprehensive deductible had there been more damage to the sides of the camper than there were.

Tom B in MO USA
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2020 at 4:39pm
Sure, if you just run a bead of 5200 over the mating surface that should seal the holes fine. Clean things up first of course. That fender isn’t coming off after that, not without taking the Fiberglas with it anyway...
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2020 at 3:46pm
Originally posted by jimandclare

Regarding the mounting of a replacement fender, below is a screen capture of a Youtube video of an rpod factory tour showing the plywood panel in the side wall where the fenders are mounted.

It looks like I'll be making new holes as the fenders they sent me are a little taller than the ones that came off of my 2016 RP178.  Not so much so that I will be off-wood but new holes will be better.  I'm guessing I can fill the old holes with the 3M 5200 and be fine with just that?  I planned on putting some on the threads when I ran in the new screws but I'm not sure I need that since the holes will be fresh also.  


Well Hmmmm.  I have a 3rd photo to post.  It shows up in my file manager after having uploaded it like 5 times and not seeing it in the left side of the add image dialog, but it doesn't show up in the add image dialog... so I don't know what to do to get it here.



Tom B in MO USA
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2020 at 3:39pm
Originally posted by jimandclare

Regarding the mounting of a replacement fender, below is a screen capture of a Youtube video of an rpod factory tour showing the plywood panel in the side wall where the fenders are mounted.




Thank you I am so glad you posted this.  I just went out and tried to size up the new fenders to the old mounting area and they do not match.  If I put the front and rear edges of the replacement fenders even with the bottom edge of the camper floor, the apex sticks up a good 1.5 inches above where you can clearly see the old one was mounted.  I"m guessing that it is no going to make that much difference since it looks like there is plenty of wood behind the entire area and the apex is still about 3 inches under the bottom of the slider.  On the door size, I will just put the fender between the two rails for the r-dome skirt and that's where it will mount.  It is centered on the tire at that point.  Bottom line is this.  I just need to fill the old holes as for the most part I will be making new ones for the new fenders. =)

Tom B in MO USA
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2020 at 3:35pm
Originally posted by Toyanvil

I am replacing my 178 Hood River Edition with these tomorrow, very close to the same specs as stock.  http://www.americastire.com/buy-tires/falken-wildpeak-a-t3w/p/26501

Load rating seems a little low Big smile



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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2020 at 2:42pm
I am replacing my 178 Hood River Edition with these tomorrow, very close to the same specs as stock.  
https://www.americastire.com/buy-tires/falken-wildpeak-a-t3w/p/26501

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2020 at 2:30pm
If you have the 16 inch rims , I would certainly consider a light truck tire.
Swampfox
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