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GlueGuy View Drop Down
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Posts: 2628 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: The blow out trip
    Posted: 13 Jun 2020 at 1:02pm
You might also want to step up to a load range D (LRD) tire. LRD will inflate to a higher pressure and impart a bit more harsh ride, but they will also run a lot cooler. Goodyear Endurance are a good choice (but there are others as well).
bp
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Posts: 5290 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2020 at 1:04pm
I don’t agree. I would attach the fenders as well as possible, using good adhesive and using fresh screw holes. Why plan on having the fenders come off and why try to reuse damaged holes? I also don’t buy the “China bomb” theory. I place the fault on FR for mounting marginally rated tires on their trailers. Get ST tires, load range d, and keep them properly inflated. If you like, buy American, of course that’s fine. I’m personally running Chinese 15 inch LRD’s with 2500 lb ratings. my $0.02.
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Tomtreas View Drop Down
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Posts: 27 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2020 at 1:15pm
Originally posted by offgrid

I don’t agree. I would attach the fenders as well as possible, using good adhesive and using fresh screw holes. Why plan on having the fenders come off and why try to reuse damaged holes? I also don’t buy the “China bomb” theory. I place the fault on FR for mounting marginally rated tires on their trailers. Get ST tires, load range d, and keep them properly inflated. If you like, buy American, of course that’s fine. I’m personally running Chinese 15 inch LRD’s with 2500 lb ratings. my $0.02.

I've considered lifting this one at some point and upgrading to 15" tires... but small steps. =)  Thanks!  The Summits I have on it now are better tires than what was still on it. 
Tom B in MO USA
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lostagain View Drop Down
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Posts: 2587 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2020 at 1:43pm
When considering the screw holes, bear in mind that the only part of the wall that offers screw withdrawal resistance is the thin skin of the wall interacting with the thread of the screw.  The styrofoam behind the skin doesn't do much.  Either filling the hole with epoxy or going to a slightly larger screw will do pretty much the same thing.  As for gluing the fenders on, with a very strong adhesive, it's not likely that any adhesive or adhesive tape is strong enough to resist the impact force of a failing tire.  But, peeling off the adhesive from the gelcoat may not be very good for it.  You may have some extensive fiberglass repairs that are much more complicated than simply putting in new screws, filling, or drilling.  Maybe having "break away" fenders may cause less costly repairs than pulling off a big chunk of fiberglass or gelcoat.  

+1 to load range D tires to minimize the risk of a blow out.  Heat is the enemy of tires.  A load range D tire, due to its 8 ply construction, is not only more resistant to deflection causing heat, it is also more impact resistant, thus reducing the risk of a tire bruise.
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Posts: 5290 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2020 at 2:26pm
lostagain, perhaps we just have different philosophies. If a tire fails all kinds of bad things can happen that are much worse than fenders coming off, and a loose fender on the roadway could harm someone else. I don't want them to come off, ever. Plus I don't mind fixing something, but having fixed it I don't want to ever have to do it a second time, I quickly run out of patience for that kind of thing. Its a personal choice I think. 

Your raise a good point about backing for the screws. I would just move them over an inch or so, but if that put them somewhere with no backing then I'd certainly agree with you on using the same holes. 
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lostagain View Drop Down
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Posts: 2587 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2020 at 2:50pm
OG, no glue or screw is going to hold a fender on in a serious tire failure.  
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Posts: 5290 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2020 at 3:22pm
5200 develops almost 400 psi shear strength on gelcoat, and has 700 tensile. Fantastic stuff. As you know, they hold keels on sailboats with it. As you suggest the rpod sheathing will almost certainly separate from the frame first. Most likely the fender will stay attached and get knocked away from the flapping tire tread. You'll have a flopping sidewall with a fender stuck to it when you stop. 

I've gone one larger wheel size and one load rating higher than FR put on their trailers. I would also give the fender every chance I could to stay attached, rather than plan for it to fail and hit the guy following me. Belt and suspenders.  

That's me. Other solutions are fine too. Its really OK to disagree on this, there is no right or wrong answer. 
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jimandclare View Drop Down
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Posts: 96 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2020 at 3:51pm
Regarding the mounting of a replacement fender, below is a screen capture of a Youtube video of an rpod factory tour showing the plywood panel in the side wall where the fenders are mounted.
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Colt View Drop Down
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Posts: 383 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2020 at 6:24pm

What was the date code on your old tires, do you know?  Mine are about the same age built 28th week of '15 and look perfect.  How heavy do you run, what pressure? 
Almost answering my own question, I think I should replace my tires, now. 
Is there any profit in going to a Load Range D tire?  There isn't much extra load capacity in those tires (1760 lbs each).


John
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offgrid View Drop Down
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Posts: 5290 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2020 at 7:33pm
Yes, load range D for sure. Some folks go to LRE's,  but sidewalls on E's are really stiff so you can potentially cause cause vibration damage to the trailer. Inflate the D's to their rated pressure. 
1994 Chinook Concourse
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