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Topic ClosedAxle Problem 2015 182G

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offgrid View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Axle Problem 2015 182G
    Posted: 04 May 2021 at 6:03pm
I disagree.

I am an engineer and Toyanvil's design while it worhs and is aesthetically pleasing is a complex solution to a simple problem. It also produces moments (torques) on the frame rails that are not necessary or beneficial.

The axle tube is a simple double ended cantilever. As such if it has equal loads on each end from the wheel attachments the bending moments on it increase from the ends to the attachment points and then remain constant and high along the entire length between the attachment points. This is why you can see the entire axle tube flattening out under an excessive load. If you only bent one side that doesn't mean the other side or both at once sound be overloaded next time, decambering the whole axle.

A simple steel angle extending the length of the axle will reinforce it over it's full length very simply. The section modulus of the combination of the tube and angle is the same whether the angle is above or below the tube, meaning that it will reinforce the axle equally well below or above. No welding required. The only thing you need to do is camber the tube slightly, which any shop with a decent size press ought to be able to do.

If you do decide to get a heavier axle that is ok too, no reason to think it will cause other issues. The rpod frame is weak at the axle mounting point so it can and has bent there but a stronger axle won't make that worse, the loads are the same.

If my axle had been bent before I reinforced it I would have replaced it with a heavier one, as there are other parts of the axle that can and have failed, the rubber the torsion arms rides in being one.

The load rating numbers Dexter and Lippert provide for their axle ranges assume the axle is mounted at the ends, so there is a substantial derate when you mount them to the rpod. The take off angle is at the end of the model number if you have a Lippert axle and is listed on the axle label.
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Blitzkrieg3002 View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 2021 at 5:29pm
Originally posted by Olddawgsrule

Short of the riser that I still believe does not traverse the frame long enough (3ft plus in my mind) Toyanvil's  design is one of the 'best' I have seen! It hits all the math for strength! 

If he's not a ME.. He missed his calling! Then again, maybe he followed is just that good!

If you're going to follow a design, his is one I strongly suggest.

MHO... Safe Travels!


I agree.  I'm curious on how he did it.  if there is a post on here that goes more in depth please link me it as i've been searching for it.  I have priced out all the materials and have a solid idea on how i could do Marwayne's fix that looks solid as well.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 2021 at 5:08pm
Short of the riser that I still believe does not traverse the frame long enough (3ft plus in my mind) Toyanvil's  design is one of the 'best' I have seen! It hits all the math for strength! 

If he's not a ME.. He missed his calling! Then again, maybe he followed is just that good!

If you're going to follow a design, his is one I strongly suggest.

MHO... Safe Travels!

Byways no Highways
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 2021 at 4:21pm
Originally posted by Toyanvil

There is a difference between a bent axle and one that has lost it's camber. If your axle is flat across the middle it is a good chance it has just lost camber and can be realigned. Overloading is normally what causes this, and most people don't weigh their trailers and just go by the factory decal. My 178 shows something like 2750 lbs on the factory decal, but weighs 3200 lbs at the scales ready to camp. So am only 300 lbs under the max axle rating, add in a WDH adding around 100 lbs to the axle, bad roads and extra water in the tanks and your axle will flatten out over time. Remember the math, I keep my trailer under 3400 total lbs at all times and try to slow down for bumps.
Just look around for a good frame or trailer shop in your town and have them align it, It's like having your car aligned. I see people buying new axles and it will just happen again. A 5000 lbs axle will start new problems you didn't need, and will be a lot more money.
This is the problem with the way R Pods are built, your axle is 89.5 inches from center of hub to center of hub and 59.25 inches frame mount to frame mount = 15 inches of over hang on each side, the R Pod frame should have been about 15 inches wider making it only 7.5 inch over hang. If you call any axle company and tell them you are building a trailer with frame rails 59.25 inches apart and you want hubs 89.5 inches apart they well tell you don't do it. That is why I did this two years ago with no more problems. Here is how I fixed my 178, P.S there are easier ways to do it on this site.

before

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Looks awesome! I'm digging it.  My axle is actually bowed up in the middle under the center of the rpod and not flat.  I'm thinking it's exactly what you stated and that the edges of the axle have just bowed up slightly due to the mounting bracket location.  I was originally thinking of ordering a new Dexter axle and widening the mounting location with some 4" 3/8 thick angle iron and 3 big gussets.  but these fixes look a lot cheaper and potentially better as you have an added ability to adjust the camber.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 2021 at 4:08pm
Originally posted by marwayne

This is how I solved my problem



I really like your setup.  do you have a writeup on what you did? looks pretty straight forward.  Just have to find a place to order the metal.  Is the angle piece that pushes on the axle just angle iron welded to a threaded stud?  and is that just a 2" piece of square tube 1/4" thick that runs the length of the middle of the pod and then bolted to the custom made alignment stubs with the same square tubing bolted through the riser?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 2021 at 2:14pm
You can see in my mods how I solved the problem.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 2021 at 2:02pm
This is how I solved my problem


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 2021 at 12:44pm
There is a difference between a bent axle and one that has lost it's camber. If your axle is flat across the middle it is a good chance it has just lost camber and can be realigned. Overloading is normally what causes this, and most people don't weigh their trailers and just go by the factory decal. My 178 shows something like 2750 lbs on the factory decal, but weighs 3200 lbs at the scales ready to camp. So am only 300 lbs under the max axle rating, add in a WDH adding around 100 lbs to the axle, bad roads and extra water in the tanks and your axle will flatten out over time. Remember the math, I keep my trailer under 3400 total lbs at all times and try to slow down for bumps.
Just look around for a good frame or trailer shop in your town and have them align it, It's like having your car aligned. I see people buying new axles and it will just happen again. A 5000 lbs axle will start new problems you didn't need, and will be a lot more money.
This is the problem with the way R Pods are built, your axle is 89.5 inches from center of hub to center of hub and 59.25 inches frame mount to frame mount = 15 inches of over hang on each side, the R Pod frame should have been about 15 inches wider making it only 7.5 inch over hang. If you call any axle company and tell them you are building a trailer with frame rails 59.25 inches apart and you want hubs 89.5 inches apart they well tell you don't do it. That is why I did this two years ago with no more problems. Here is how I fixed my 178, P.S there are easier ways to do it on this site.

before

After 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 2021 at 10:47am
So i've taken some measurements.  I've looked into a Dexter #10 axle.  it's also a 3500.  their next highest axle is a #11 which is a 4100-6000lb axle.  the #10 seems to be the choice for my pod.  it's dry weight on the sticker is 3044lbs, and GVWR 3862lbs.  I think i'm regularly loaded over 3500lbs and close to GVWR once everything is in their.  The Dexter 3500 looks like its rated for 2300-4000lbs I believe so i think it would be my choice.  

I'm trying to figure out a few measurements for replacing an axle.  When i measure for my spindle starting angle do i need to measure it with the pod jacked up and the tire off the ground? as it sits with weight on it, it looks like it rests at about 20-30degree's up eyeballing it.  My choices for starting angle are 0 degree, 10 degree's up or 22.5 degree's up.

No signs of any frame damage from what i see.  I do have the risers installed.

Also, does the rpod run a 5x4.5" bolt pattern?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 2021 at 10:30am
+1. Definitely check from frame damage too while you're under there. But negative camber indicates a bent axle, I don't think a frame failure alone would cause that. Doesn't mean you can't have both at once if you hit a curb or pothole hard when heavily loaded.
1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
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