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Topic ClosedSacrificial Anode Replacement

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The E Train View Drop Down
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Joined: 09 Jun 2012
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Sacrificial Anode Replacement
    Posted: 07 Oct 2012 at 3:49pm
Here is a pic of my sacrificial anode after the first year of use. My unit was manufactured in Nov. 2011, purchased new in June 2012. Do I need to replace the anode?
"What happens in the POD, stays in the POD."
2002 Dakota (pulling a) 2012 R-Pod 176T
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Oct 2012 at 4:21pm
I would, definitely.
.: Mark & Beth :: Silverado 5.3L :: 2018 rPod 180 :.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Oct 2012 at 4:38pm
According to my RV tech, you do not have to replace your anode until all of the sacrified metal is gone.  That being said, do what you are most comfortable doing.  After all, a new anode is about $14.  Safe Travels.
Camper Bob and Camper Sue
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Oct 2012 at 5:23pm
For what it's worth, I vote to replace.
Bob and Joyce
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Oct 2012 at 6:33pm
I'd replace it myself    ...but I am curious why the deteriorization appears to be concentrated near the outboard end of the anode. I have a 20012 model 177 and bought it in October of last year. I pulled the anode a few weeks ago and it had some pot holes here and there but well distributed along the shaft. Mine is still good to go    ...but I bought a 2-pack of replacement Suburban magnesium anodes anyway, just to have on hand.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Oct 2012 at 6:52pm
Still looks serviceable to me, the recommendation from Suburban is to replace after it is 75% gone.  That looks more like 25% gone. 
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Oct 2012 at 9:31pm
Bah! Its perfectly fine.  At that rate, you've got years of life in it yet.
Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Oct 2012 at 10:54pm
I agree with 'Slogger, why is the end near the threads that way? Is it designed like that to keep the magnesium (assuming it is Mg) away from the tank wall? Or is it just "sacrificed?"
"What happens in the POD, stays in the POD."
2002 Dakota (pulling a) 2012 R-Pod 176T
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Oct 2012 at 8:57am
The female threaded connection on my heater appears to be steel-iron.  Then galvanic action would be concentrated near the wall end of the rod.  I replace my anode rods before the central 'wire' shows.  One rod broke the central wire and rattled around in the heater until I could get a 'grabber' tool into the heater and carefully pulled the remaining piece of the rod out of the heater.

I also found out that the rod would leave a grey magnesium sludge in the tank.  The sludge would then flush out in the spring clogging the sink and shower faucets.  So after removing the rod, I flush out the heater tank through the rod opening. Then I replace the anode rod each fall with a simple plastic plug which keeps debris out and creatures from crawling into the heater.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Oct 2012 at 10:53pm
  I do like TIDALWAVE, take the spray nozzel for the hose and clean the tank of any garbage that is in there, dry and close it up in the fall.
   I intend to replace the rod in the spring as it was at about 2/3's good at the start of this year after two years of use.   Goose
Mother Goose's Caboose..2011 RP171..07 Grand Cherokee
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