R-pod Owners Forum Homepage

This site is free to use.
Donations benefit a non-profit Girls Softball organization

Forum Home Forum Home > R-pod Discussion Forums > Miscellaneous / Off-topic
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed: I'm not an Electrician..but...pros and cons
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Calendar   Register Register  Login Login

Topic ClosedI'm not an Electrician..but...pros and cons

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <123>
Author
Message Reverse Sort Order
Podster View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 16 Sep 2014
Location: San Antonio
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 1108
Direct Link To This Post Topic: I'm not an Electrician..but...pros and cons
    Posted: 08 Dec 2014 at 4:58am
Originally posted by Buxmont

 I personally don't think 30 amp is overkill. Especially when trying to run the AC through a small gauge extension cord, I've seen it happen to many times where they melt from the inside out. There's a reason Forest River supplies you with a number 10awg umbilical cord!

So pulling 30 amps from the sub-panel is no-problem as along as I have the proper breaker, wire, and receptacle to support it? 

What issues, if any, are created by pulling the full load at the sub-panel? It's counter-intuitive for me to place a 30 amp breaker in a panel filled with 15 amp (there is 1 20 amp) breakers. My ignorance suggests I should not exceed whats already there.

I appreciate your response, thanks!
Cliff & Raelynn
Ranger 4.0/178
(1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity)
Back to Top
Buxmont View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie
Avatar

Joined: 25 Sep 2014
Location: PA
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 9
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2014 at 10:42pm
That panel will fit ITE, Siemens, or Murry compatible breakers. It looks like you still have open spaces available, just remember you only need a 30 amp SINGLE pole breaker, and since that second picture is a sub panel, make sure you keep the ground and the neutral on their appropriate bus.

I personally don't think 30 amp is overkill. Especially when trying to run the AC through a small gauge extension cord, I've seen it happen to many times where they melt from the inside out. There's a reason Forest River supplies you with a number 10awg umbilical cord!
2015 178 Rpod
2003 Chevy Trailblazer
Back to Top
Podster View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 16 Sep 2014
Location: San Antonio
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 1108
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2014 at 10:28pm
Originally posted by techntrek

 If you still want the 30 amp outlet, inside the garage by the panel is the easiest and cheapest since it is close and you don't need a weather-proof box.  A standard single-gang box and $10 30 amp outlet, a few feet of 10 amp wire and you are set.  Yes a double 30-amp breaker will work there, just be sure you are only tapping ONE of those legs for the pod!  I did this same thing at my house.

I'm not sure I can get a true 30 amp service at the garage panel, however, you bring up a good point...I probably don't need it.

It appears the choice is a) replace an existing outside breaker with a double thin 30 amp breaker and tap one side, install and wire an outdoor box, or b) install a standard 15 or 20 amp breaker in one of the available spots and wire the outlet. 

I think the true 30 amp service is overkill so I'm leaning towards the garage (sub panel) tap. 

Thanks for taking the time to help me understand this panel stuff. 

Cliff & Raelynn
Ranger 4.0/178
(1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity)
Back to Top
Podster View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 16 Sep 2014
Location: San Antonio
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 1108
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2014 at 10:18pm
Originally posted by JStrube

Can you post pics of the 2 locations in question and distances from the pod plug?  I'd say closest to the pod is best, but you need space for the breaker.  Do you have a load center at the utility feed?  Are you talking a sub panel in the garage? Fed from a breaker?

The pics...

Outside...All 220v appliance feeds. There one 70amp breaker marked (main/sub panel) 

Inside (sub-panel in the Garage) 120v feeds, light, plugs, etc...

Question: How do I identify the correct breaker, I looked at everything within the panel and on the breakers and it's not clear to me what type I need. Am I stuck with pulling one out and taking it to the parts house to match it up?

Thanks, 

Cliff & Raelynn
Ranger 4.0/178
(1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity)
Back to Top
Buxmont View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie
Avatar

Joined: 25 Sep 2014
Location: PA
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 9
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2014 at 4:05pm
The easiest would be right at the panel, the pod is only a 120v appliance. There are no 240v circuits in this coach! They make a 30 amp single pole breaker for most manufactures, so you you only need one open space. If there is no room, purchase a breaker that fits two single pole circuits in one space and add your Pod circuit in the space you created. Also make sure you know the difference between your taps, Hot vs Neutral, especially when wiring your outlet and/or if your making up a shorter/longer cord. 
2015 178 Rpod
2003 Chevy Trailblazer
Back to Top
Seanl View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 19 Sep 2011
Location: Fredericton NB
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 633
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2014 at 3:10pm
Your garage sub panel is probobly a 220 volt panel you can tell at the pannel if you look at the wire coming in from your main panel if you see 4 wires (Red Black White and plain copper) it is 220. It should be connected to a double pole breaker in your main house panel so if you can find this breaker in youir main house pannel you can find out how many amps you have at the sub pannel in the garage. 
Sean, 2011 Rpod RP-173,2009 Jeep Liberty Rocky Mountain Edition
Back to Top
techntrek View Drop Down
Admin Group - pHp
Admin Group - pHp
Avatar

Joined: 29 Jul 2009
Location: MD
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 9059
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2014 at 2:56pm
First, you may not need the 30 amp outlet.  If you are plugging in close-by to a 15 amp outlet you can run the A/C, just don't run any of the other "big" appliances at the same time.  Mine used about 1000 watts which is well within the limits of a 15 amp circuit.
 
If you still want the 30 amp outlet, inside the garage by the panel is the easiest and cheapest since it is close and you don't need a weather-proof box.  A standard single-gang box and $10 30 amp outlet, a few feet of 10 amp wire and you are set.  Yes a double 30-amp breaker will work there, just be sure you are only tapping ONE of those legs for the pod!  I did this same thing at my house.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
Back to Top
CharlieM View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 23 Nov 2012
Location: N. Colorado
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 1797
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2014 at 11:00am
Clif,

If it were me I'd be looking at the garage panel as a first choice. It's unlikely the only 15A service is wired to that panel. You'll have to determine how that panel is fed from the main entry panel. It's probably fed through a lower powered dual 240V breaker somewhere. Even of the garage panel is populated with only 15A breakers that subpanel has to support current in several of them simultaneously. It won't support all the 15A breakers fully loaded, but it will handle more than one. If the main feed to that subpanel is 40+ amps or so you can just add a 30A line for the Pod.
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD
Back to Top
Podster View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 16 Sep 2014
Location: San Antonio
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 1108
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2014 at 10:03am
Originally posted by CharlieM

The house panel in the garage might work providing it has sufficient service to it. You don't say what is already in it. Does it support 240V for water heater or dryer or A/C? 

Very good question, I think this is what it comes down to right here. Thank you very much for the clarity. I will start to investigate what exactly is available at the garage panel vs the feed outside. It very well could be that the 240v (30amp) service originates outside leaving only 15 amp circuits for distribution in the garage. 

Understanding how utility ins and sub panels are set up is new territory for me, I appreciate your input.    


Cliff & Raelynn
Ranger 4.0/178
(1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity)
Back to Top
CharlieM View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member
Avatar

Joined: 23 Nov 2012
Location: N. Colorado
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 1797
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2014 at 9:46am
It sounds like the distances are about equal and relatively short so either point should work. Adding a dual breaker to your "utility in" box should work if you can find one with one 30A side and the other side equal to the existing one you will be replacing. If you're replacing a single 30A with a dual 30A you're good to go. Just make sure you can shut off that panel while working on it.

The house panel in the garage might work providing it has sufficient service to it. You don't say what is already in it. Does it support 240V for water heater or dryer or A/C? If so it will probably have at least 30A available.
You don't need 240V for the Pod, but 30A capacity in house installations usually comes with 240V panels. If only for garage outlets it might not. If the panel will support 30A you simply add a single 30A breaker and hook it up.

Either way you should wire with #10 AWG two conductor plus ground (10 W/G) and use type UF if it will be exposed to sunlight or buried. Use a good outdoor rated box and RV type socket.
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <123>

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Bulletin Board Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 9.64
Copyright ©2001-2009 Web Wiz