Winterizing the R-Pod

RPod Winterization Modified Forum using compressed air; Anti-freeze only in drains 

1). Open both low-point drains underneath the camper. These hang down along the left edge under the floor behind the wheel. You will need two crescent wrenches, one to hold the upper "nut", one to twist off the lower nut (you can do the lower plug by hand.). 

2) Open the hot and cold valves on the kitchen sink, and then open the outside panel for the hot water heater; remove the anode rod plug on the hot water heater. Water will gush out - but it will not be under pressure. Inspect and replace the anode if necessary (about every two years; in 2015 it was not necessary but I bought a spare). The water heater must be stored dry, do not try to fill it with antifreeze. Wait for the water to stop running out of the drains and plug hole. Using a garden hose, flush any debris from inside the water heater tank. You can pull open the pressure relief valve at the top of the water heater to speed up the draining process. Insert the anode rod, using a layer of Teflon tape on the threads. 

3) I DID NOT DO THIS STEP AS I THINK OUR UNIT IS DIFFERENT. Turn all 3 bypass valves on the hot water heater. The valves are inside the trailer on the back of the water heater - look on the outside of the camper to see where the water heater is located. The valves on the cold and hot water lines will now be perpendicular to the water lines (closed), and the valve between the hot and cold lines will now be parallel (open). 

4) Attach a "blow-out plug" to the city water connection; be sure to use Teflon tape so it is a tight seal. MARK HAS ONE WITH HIS AIR COMPRESSOR. Apply LOW pressure air (ABOUT 25 psi) until the low-point drains stop sputtering. Do the same for the toilet and shower. Close the low-point drains finger-tight. 
5) Open each valve inside the camper, one at a time, until it sputters and then close it; open the low-point drains again and then close when drained. Remove the blow-out plug.  If your camper has the black tank rinse connection, apply air to this connection for several seconds using the blow-out plug I DID NOT DO THIS BUT I DID RUN FRESH WATER THROUGH IT. 

6) Inside the trailer, remove the access panel for the water pump (on the 177 it’s BELOW THE SINK MUST REMOVE WOOD PANEL near the water heater). On the intake line for the water pump, you'll notice a valve and about 2 1/2' of tubing that's loose on one end. I DID NOT USE THIS HOSE AS IT IS TO DRAW IN ANTI FREEZE

7) Outside and underneath the trailer, open your freshwater tank drain valve and allow it to empty. 

8).Pour some RV antifreeze into the shower and sink drains to fill the water traps

9). Open the black water and gray water dump valves make sure the black and gray waste water tanks are empty. The last dumps of the season fill both tanks full of water before dumping. Repeat at least once
10) Set the fridge's door latch so it stays open - look at the assembly on the wall of the fridge, you can slide it out some so when the door is latched it stays open enough to prevent mold from growing.
11) Remove the 9 volt batteries from the smoke and CO detectors, and make sure the lead-acid battery is disconnected.

November 19, 2015