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techntrek View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Hot Water Heater ByPass
    Posted: 12 Jan 2016 at 9:31pm
At first I thought it must allow some antifreeze in, but it can't be much.  I used slightly less than a gallon in the pod, and slightly over a gallon in the Salem, which I expect since the plumbing system is a little bigger.  Last year I even tried to drain the WH again when I was done and didn't get anything out.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2016 at 2:04pm
Originally posted by furpod

If it bypasses the cold water fill side, then meets the T of the hot/exit side, and there is a one way between it and the tank, it will not fill.


Yes, but I'm not aware of a check valve in that outlet line. And if it is there that inhibits draining of the HW pipes and HW heater from the hot low point drain. All said I think the three valve setup, or two either/or valves, is best. Actually two either/or valves might be better since you would get either hot water, cold water, or no water, but not luke warm water.
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furpod View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2016 at 1:54pm
If it bypasses the cold water fill side, then meets the T of the hot/exit side, and there is a one way between it and the tank, it will not fill.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2016 at 12:27pm
Still can dump into the WH if it's been emptied. 
Charlie
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2016 at 12:00pm
Could have a one way on the "out" side of the WH..
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2016 at 11:46am
It seems that the single valve approach can still let some antifreeze into the WH, especially if the WH is already empty. I'm assuming the singe valve is an either/or valve on the inlet side. Pressurized red stuff on the bypass route can flow back into the WH through the unblocked outlet side. Yes?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2016 at 10:30am
Originally posted by techntrek

Interestingly the bypass system on my camper only has one valve.  That threw me at first but after thinking about it, it makes sense since it is like the valves in Matt's system, diverting the flow either to one outlet or the other.  The other end of the bypass hose just has a regular T fitting like the black one at the top of the pic, above.  I'm surprised more campers don't have just that one valve since it should be cheaper.


and less confusing. 1 valve, it's either right or wrong. We see so many owners with the three valve confusions here.. usually the center one throws them. But having one would sure simplify getting a new owner to get it right when they have no hot water, or sporadic hot water..
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2016 at 10:28am
In my experience, both can go wrong, and both can work. Using pink stuff insures there is no water left collected in a valve or fitting. I personally can do pink stuff in a couple minutes on our pod, while not all interactive time, it takes a half hour or so before I am comfortable when I have done just air. I do one valve at a time and let it flow at 30psi until nothing comes out besides air. Also, many people don't own a compressor.

Unfortunately, come spring, we will see several water pump filters, a few water pumps, toilet valves, and on newer pods, outside showers, all broken from not getting winterized fully, and my observation last year, most were people who used air.

Now, as far as the "why do people?"  I will never understand people that hook up and drag the trailer to a dealer and pay $75-300 to have it done. Regardless of what method they might use at home..
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2016 at 6:55am
I guess I am missing something here.  Wouldn't it be a whole lot simpler to just blow out the system with an air compressor?  I have done this every year since 2012 and it takes about 20-30 seconds and you are done.  No anti-freeze to fuss with, except for the traps.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2016 at 9:29pm
Interestingly the bypass system on my camper only has one valve.  That threw me at first but after thinking about it, it makes sense since it is like the valves in Matt's system, diverting the flow either to one outlet or the other.  The other end of the bypass hose just has a regular T fitting like the black one at the top of the pic, above.  I'm surprised more campers don't have just that one valve since it should be cheaper.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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