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ouR escaPOD mods

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DavMar View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote DavMar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: ouR escaPOD mods
    Posted: 28 Sep 2018 at 4:33pm
Originally posted by StephenH

Here is one that is not an R-Pod mod as such, but should make towing of the R-Pod much better. We are towing with a 2010 Nissan Frontier LE Crew Cab 4x4. Some of our trips have been interesting as we have, even with weight distribution, experienced a lot of bouncing, especially on concrete roads. I was thinking something needed to be done, but I did not want to go with an air spring system since that is a significant outlay and can have issues of punctures, air compressor failures, etc.

One system I had read about was the Timbren Suspension Enhancement System which uses a rubber "spring" which takes the place of the bump-stop on the rear axle. I was considering this when I read about SumoSprings by SuperSprings, International. These are made from closed-cell urethane which is available in three different densities. I chose to purchase a set of the Blue-40 SumoSprings which are rated at 1000 lbs at 50% compression. Both the Timbren and SS products come with a limited lifetime warranty.


Stephen for the very same reasons why you decided to upgrade your rear suspension on your truck and the product you selected to do this SumoSprings I too did the same some time ago and have been very pleased ever since. The only difference with my installation and yours is I believe I installed the heavier duty Black 47 model SumoSprings. Probably overkill on my part but still all in all very pleased with the results.

Dave & Marlene J with Zoey the
wonder dog.
2017 Rpod 180
2016 Toyota Tacoma SR5 4x4
Lexington, NC
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Ben Herman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Sep 2018 at 3:46pm
Originally posted by StephenH



Like many others, I did not like the wallpaper behind the sink in our 2016 RP179. However, I had not done anything about it until now. Encouraged by seeing what others had done and taking advantage of a sale at Camping World, we purchased stick-on "tiles."

I took off the trim strip that was about 3" above the counter and saw that it had a purpose. That was to cover a seam that was less than even. On one end, there was a gap of almost 1/4". On the other end, the panel coming down from the roof was not flush with the panel that completed the wall to the counter. I did not think it was good to just stick the tile over the top of this seam, so I took some wood filler and filled the seam, making it smooth at the one end and filling the gap at the other end so it was smooth all the way down. After a little sanding to make sure it was smooth, I started on the door side and worked my way over to the slide side. I had previously put a trim strip below the window. I pulled that off and added another row of tile squares above what I had already installed. This made the top edge of the tile tall enough that the trim strip when replaced covered the top edge of the tile. After replacing the curtain rod holders and reinstalling the curtains, we have a very attractive tiled backsplash in the kitchen area behind the sink. I did not do the side walls as they looked okay as is against the tile backsplash.

Stephen - do you happen to have model info on the faucet that you installed? Tried finding one like that to no avail.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Sep 2018 at 4:25pm
Here is one that is not an R-Pod mod as such, but should make towing of the R-Pod much better. We are towing with a 2010 Nissan Frontier LE Crew Cab 4x4. Some of our trips have been interesting as we have, even with weight distribution, experienced a lot of bouncing, especially on concrete roads. I was thinking something needed to be done, but I did not want to go with an air spring system since that is a significant outlay and can have issues of punctures, air compressor failures, etc.

One system I had read about was the Timbren Suspension Enhancement System which uses a rubber "spring" which takes the place of the bump-stop on the rear axle. I was considering this when I read about SumoSprings by SuperSprings, International. These are made from closed-cell urethane which is available in three different densities. I chose to purchase a set of the Blue-40 SumoSprings which are rated at 1000 lbs at 50% compression. Both the Timbren and SS products come with a limited lifetime warranty.

Installation was not difficult. Instructions are provided and the tools needed aren't any different than ones needed for maintaining the R-Pod. These are installed one side at a time. With the Nissan, don't jack it up but leave the tires in contact with the ground. Loosen the four nuts on the axle U bolts and remove the factory bump stop. Install the backing plate for the SS. Replace, tighten, and torque the nuts on the U bolts. Then jack the vehicle up to increase the space between the leaf spring and the frame. Put the supplied blue locking liquid on the bolt and thread the SS onto the backing plate's bolt. Lower the vehicle and then repeat the process for the other side.

If I had been younger and could get more easily under the vehicle, it would have taken less time. As it was, I don't think it too more than an hour once I had everything I needed together.

Here's a picture of one of the Sumo Springs installed.

StephenH
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ouR escaPOD mods
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jul 2018 at 10:16pm
Here is another handy little modification/addition to the R-Pod:


I mounted ours to the front driver's side corner of the R-Pod using double-sided tape. It also came with screws to attach it, but Idid not want to drill holes. Because the tape causes the unit to not sit flat against the side, it tends to sag a little. I improvised a shim to hold it square with the bracket. Once mounted, the unit can be removed from the mounting bracket for storage inside when not being used or when traveling.

Once set up, it is a simple matter to place the unit on the bracket, open the cover, swivel the unit to measure side-to-side level, and push the button to turn it on. Then it is a matter of looking at the column of LEDs on either side which indicate which side needs to be raised and how much. If it is level, the center (green LED) column lights. Once the side-to-side leveling is done, the unit swivels to do the front-to-rear leveling.

This sure beats running back and forth to the door to check the torpedo level I had been using. While not as accurate as the torpedo level, it is very close. If the Hopkins level is indicating perfectly level, the torpedo level might show a slight difference, but still within the centering lines of the bubble level.

I found it at a good price while we were traveling. For the ease of leveling and the visibility of the LEDs from within the TV and that it does both side-to-side and front-to-back leveling plus it is removable and does not need to sit outside all the time, I recommend this unit. Even better if you find it on eTrailer or elsewhere for a better price.
StephenH
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ouR escaPOD mods
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2018 at 7:26am
One more little one that does not require a picture since the appearance isn't all that different:

Remove spark igniter (see above) and install a Char-Broil Universal Fit Electronic Ignition which I found at my local Walmart for $13.00. I had to enlarge the hole I had made a little in order to install it. However, I was able to plug the existing wires into the back of the unit. It has four connections. I used two for the wires leading to the burners. I used one of the wires that came with it to bridge the other two terminals so it would not be sparking between them under the counter. After installing a battery, I tested it and am much more pleased with this. Now, instead of a big "clunk" sound when I light the stove, it makes a very quiet "tick tick tick" sound. That will be much less likely to wake up my wife when I get up and put water on for coffee/tea in the mornings.
StephenH
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ouR escaPOD mods
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Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2018 at 4:22pm


Like many others, I did not like the wallpaper behind the sink in our 2016 RP179. However, I had not done anything about it until now. Encouraged by seeing what others had done and taking advantage of a sale at Camping World, we purchased stick-on "tiles."

I took off the trim strip that was about 3" above the counter and saw that it had a purpose. That was to cover a seam that was less than even. On one end, there was a gap of almost 1/4". On the other end, the panel coming down from the roof was not flush with the panel that completed the wall to the counter. I did not think it was good to just stick the tile over the top of this seam, so I took some wood filler and filled the seam, making it smooth at the one end and filling the gap at the other end so it was smooth all the way down. After a little sanding to make sure it was smooth, I started on the door side and worked my way over to the slide side. I had previously put a trim strip below the window. I pulled that off and added another row of tile squares above what I had already installed. This made the top edge of the tile tall enough that the trim strip when replaced covered the top edge of the tile. After replacing the curtain rod holders and reinstalling the curtains, we have a very attractive tiled backsplash in the kitchen area behind the sink. I did not do the side walls as they looked okay as is against the tile backsplash.


StephenH
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ouR escaPOD mods
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2018 at 8:33pm
We were not too far from home on the last part of our recent trip. We did okay as far as the R-Pod went until after we had gone over some very rough roads in the upper midwest. That was just too much for the black tank drain supports. Even though the factory had added a second support when it went to the factory for repair, the rough roads caused enough flexing and vibration that the nylock nuts holding the tank's hanger to the straps came off and the end of the drain dragged on the Interstate. What was worse was that somehow, even though the handle is on the forward side and one would think that would help keep it closed, it didn't. Someone passed us, beeped the horn and pointed at our R-Pod. We were almost to a rest area and there was no good place to pull off before then. I looked in the mirror and saw the drain dragging on the pavement.



When we got to the rest area, the tank had pretty much completely drained. I shut the valve and used a number of zip-ties to strap it up for the remainder of our trip. It was a hot, sunny day. It is a good thing that sunlight is a good disinfectant.

When we got home, I ordered a new valve, drain fitting and cover from Amazon. I also went to my local Lowe's Home Improvement store and purchased some strap aluminum. Once I had all the parts on hand, I drained the remainder of the black tank (Gorilla tape helped here to seal the fittings.). Once the black tank was drained, I removed the old valve and drain end, leaving the flange that was still good. I bolted on a new valve and drain fitting and installed a new cover. To keep this from ever happening again, I made a hanger strap out of the strap aluminum. Mine should never come loose as it allows the pipe to move without stressing the screws holding it in place. I had previously done this for the gray tank drain. I had hoped that the factory's two fittings would hold. I was wrong. Now I have a support that will not fail to keep the pipe off the ground.



StephenH
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ouR escaPOD mods
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2018 at 7:56am
It was not. I had gone but had forgotten to put it in the car. I knew I would be nearby the next day, so waited to purchase until I had grabbed the book and the coupons for the 20% off one item and the free item the next day. I don't know if Harbor Freight's catalogs are local or national.
StephenH
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ouR escaPOD mods
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Post Options Post Options   Quote craigwood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2018 at 7:43am
Excellent Stephen!  Heading to the Big city and the closest Harbor Freight (3 hours away) tomorrow to purchase this - is the coupon book available at the store?
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2018 at 10:14pm
For all of us who have been frustrated with the non-tilting television mount, Harbor Freight has come to our rescue. The recent Tool Disposal Notice Huge Coupon Book has on its back cover a coupon for an Armstrong Swivel/Tilt TV Wall Mount, normally $14.99 but with the coupon $9.99. The spacing of the brackets is just right to take the place of the non-tilting face plate.

Armstrong 17" - 42" Swivel/Tilt TV Wall Mount, Item 64238. The coupon is good through 7/31/2018.

The only parts needed out of this mount are the tilt mechanism and the new face plate. The wall bracket and arm are not needed.

Installation will also need something to make a bushing since the bolt for the new swivel mount is much smaller (but still adequate) than the existing bolt. One could drill out the holes in the bracket and re-use the large bolt. I chose instead to take a little piece of 3/8 PEX tubing, which was the perfect diameter on the outside to slide tightly into the arm's hole and tight snug enough on the inside so that the new bolt would not wiggle around. The new arm has two washers. These will be needed when installing. I had the PEX tubing on hand from a previous project, so that did not cost me anything additional to purchase. There might be some other material which could be used just as well.

Steps:
1. Purchase new mount.
2. Unpack box.
3. Remove tilt mechanism from the wall mount's arm and wall bracket. Save the bolt, nylock nut, and two washers.
4. Remove TV from old faceplate.
5. Remove old faceplate from arm.
6. Cut a piece of 3/8" PEX tubing so that it will slide into the hole in the end of the arm to fill it without sticking out either above or below.
7. Place swivel head on arm with washers on the top and bottom between the arm and the head's tabs; insert bolt, install nut and tighten. Note: Be careful of orientation, placing the square notch on top.
8. Install faceplate on to television.
9. Hook tabs on faceplate over the swivel head's notch and secure with the two screws.
10. Adjust the angle to your liking.
11. Enjoy watching the television with it set at a better angle.

This mount does not facilitate quick changes as it does not have thumbscrews. However, if it is set to a good angle for watching while sitting in the dinette area (RP179), then when swiveled back, the existing straps should still work to strap it in for travel.

I hope this is something others will find useful. It has solved a long-time peeve with the TV mount for a very reasonable price.
StephenH
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ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
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