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ouR escaPOD mods

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StephenH View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: ouR escaPOD mods
    Posted: 03 Jun 2019 at 8:57am
There is an advantage to having a center support though. When I took off the end brackets (one at a time) to shorten the overhang so the brackets would not be at risk of hitting the arm, it was good to have the center support to hold the angle in place while I was working on the brackets. If I did not have that center support, it would have been harder to do the bracket modification needed.

Addendum:  I decided to seal along the upper edge of the reinforcing angle, but not the ends. The seal should keep water out and decrease chances of corrosion. The camber should help any water that might get in to drain toward the ends where it should drain at the bottom of the V channel at the end by the arms. I used DAP Dynaflex Ultra Window, Door, Siding & Trim. The color I used is black to match. The product says "Crack Proof, Resists UV Fading & Dirt Build Up, Weather MAX Technology. One thing that helped me decide to use this is the specifications which include Flexibility: Permanently Flexible and Joint Movement: +/- 35%. I used less than a tube for the job.
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ouR escaPOD mods
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jun 2019 at 5:16am
Originally posted by GlueGuy

Originally posted by offgrid

As a reminder, the center clamp is not needed from a structural viewpoint. OTOH it doesn't hurt anything to have it there. 
I don't know that I agree with this assessment. When I look at that structure, it appears that the axle attachment to the frame would be the fulcrum of a lever. If anything, I would want to put another u-bolt/clamp inboard of the frame about the same distance as the outboard clamp. Both sides.

The axle isn't a teeter totter, its a double ended cantilever. The stress on the axle is the same everywhere between the two supports.  So, to function as cantilevers both the axle and the supporting angle need to run the entire length as continuous parts. if you made the angle discontinuous then yes you would want to clamp it to the axle inboard, but that would just create a high stress location on the axle at that point, so it would bend there instead of at the supports. By making both parts continuous there is no need for clamps except at the ends, everywhere else the angle is supporting the axle because the axle is being bent downwards in the center by the end loads.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2019 at 7:42pm
I don't think anyone will accuse me of being an artist, but I'm glad my sketch was helpful. It turns out I do need to trim a little from the outboard side of the brackets on the end. They are too close to the arm and may interfere if they shift even a little.

Edit: I did take the end brackets off and removed some of the material to give better clearance for the arm. There is now a distinct 1/4" space between the end of the bracket and the end of the axle tube, which matches the clearance for the reinforcing angle.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote DavMar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2019 at 4:59pm
Originally posted by StephenH

Unfortunately, I did not take pictures of the bending process. I will try to describe it better.

Edit: Hopefully, this will make it clearer.


Your simple drawing was like a thousand words, now I understand how you bent the angle iron. Thanks!

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Post Options Post Options   Quote GlueGuy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2019 at 3:51pm
Originally posted by offgrid

As a reminder, the center clamp is not needed from a structural viewpoint. OTOH it doesn't hurt anything to have it there. 
I don't know that I agree with this assessment. When I look at that structure, it appears that the axle attachment to the frame would be the fulcrum of a lever. If anything, I would want to put another u-bolt/clamp inboard of the frame about the same distance as the outboard clamp. Both sides.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2019 at 3:08pm
The main thing you're trying to achieve is to support the axle ends and carry a portion of that load in the angle back to the supports. So if someone wants to try shims the most important place to put them would probably be under the support points. Otherwise the angle wouldn't be in direct contact with the axle there and would probably deflect more than would be desirable. By bending the angle its in more or less direct contact with the axle for its whole length so you don't have to worry about it. 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote podwerkz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2019 at 2:28pm
For future reference, wouldn't it be easier to leave the angle stock straight, and then simply weld in an angled 'shim' in the middle of the length?

This shim would apply the upward pressure on the factory axle tube, and the angle will still remain more or less straight along the length from end to end. 

Just thinking it might be easier for someone else who is wanting to strengthen the axle tube. 




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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2019 at 8:21am
I saw that video too. Note that they kept the chain to axle angle at about 45 degrees. The reinforcement angle is easier to bend than the axle tube so for what you did its fine. If someone wanted to use that technique to recamber an axle then I'd suggest a wider angle and a chain at least 3x the capacity of the jack. 

Re the center clamp, as they used to say back in the '60's, if it feels good, do it!Big smile
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2019 at 7:57am
The clearance was my concern as well. I will look at it again and if I think it might interfere, I will take it off and cut a little off to make sure. I had seen one YouTube video of a shop using a chain and hydraulic ram to bend an axle, although I think it was on a leaf-spring suspension. That's what gave me the idea to try it for my brace. I tried to match the capacity of the chain to the capacity of the bottle jack. I definitely would not have wanted to try out a chain with lesser capacity.

I know you said the center clamp is not needed, but I feel better having it there. It was also helpful when mounting the reinforcement.
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ouR escaPOD mods
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2019 at 6:53am
StephenH, what you've done looks good. 

The only concern I have is that looking at the photo it looks like the upper clamp portion doesn't have much clearance from the torque arm. 

As a reminder, the center clamp is not needed from a structural viewpoint. OTOH it doesn't hurt anything to have it there. 

The same type of chain and bottle jack approach could be used to attempt to straighten an axle as well, but I would keep the angle between the part being bent/straightened and the chain to around 45 degrees. The shallower the angle the more stress that needs to be applied to the chain to achieve the same bending force. At 45 degrees its 1.4X, and 30 degrees its 2X and at 22 degrees its 3X. Blocking could be used to lengthen the jack and increase the angle if needed. 
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