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ouR escaPOD mods

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geewizard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote geewizard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: ouR escaPOD mods
    Posted: 02 Mar 2020 at 8:13am
Glad you find the Anderson connector info useful.

Regarding using cable ties, what I did to avoid them was to lay out my two conductors on the lawn then twist them together.  Not tightly but about one twist per foot.  They work for me that way WITH MY CABLE.


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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 2020 at 7:55am
Originally posted by offgrid

Anderson makes good stuff, it handles high currents, can be booted, is polarized so you can’t reverse polarity accidentally, and can’t be confused with other ac or dc connectors on the trailer. What more can you ask for?
A more reasonable price from Anderson? I could not find any other source for the boots. Four of them (2 source, 2 load) cost me $21.45 ($14.96 plus $6.49 shipping). OTOH, I purchased the two pairs of connectors for $10.90 with Prime (no charge for shipping) and tax of $0.79. I will have to pay the use tax for the boots on next year's state tax return, so I don't get to skip the tax there, nor on any other of my online purchases where tax is not charged.
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ouR escaPOD mods
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 2020 at 6:05am
Anderson makes good stuff, it handles high currents, can be booted, is polarized so you can’t reverse polarity accidentally, and can’t be confused with other ac or dc connectors on the trailer. What more can you ask for?
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 2020 at 9:37pm
I decided to go with the same connectors and boots. I will replace some of the other connectors so that I can have a reliable quick-disconnect for the wiring. Thank you for the information.
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ouR escaPOD mods
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 2020 at 8:01pm
I would not want to use the AC connectors and since I am using my 120V cords, would not want to use one for that purpose either. As I wrote earlier, it is moot since I purchased the 20' extension set. I just need to tie them together. I just bought a bag of zip-ties from Harbor Freight. They should work for the purpose. I will get some connectors that can handle the repeated plugging and unplugging to use in place of at least some of the ones that are not meant for repeated use.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Pod People Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 2020 at 4:22pm
I used a standard 30amp Rv female receptacle and waterproof cover on the trailer end  that is wired to the controller. I attached a standard 30amp male end to the solar panels with mc-4 connectors. There is a 30 amp fuse between the controller and the batteries.
here is a picture of the 25' power cord with the entire system. you can see the 30 amp female receptacle located on the pod  frame at the front next to the A frame-the male end of the 25' power cord is plugged here

here is a picture of the spliced 30 amp male plug end using mc 4 connectors to the solar panels-the female end of the 25' cord is plugged into the collectors

here is a picture of all of the materials used
As others have noted, I have used 120v AC connectors mixed in with 12vdc connections which is NOT standard practice.Also note that different from these pictures, my current installation is on our newer 179 and not the older 173 as shon and also the fuse has been moved to inside the cargo area to be waterproof.
I hope this helps
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 2020 at 1:47pm
Originally posted by offgrid

The vast majority of solar modules are used in large arrays and so are connected in series strings building the voltage up to near 600V or higher before parallel connections are made, and those parallel connections are done in a combiner box with fuses. So single conductor connectors are standard practice in the solar world. MC4 connectors became the standard about 10 years ago, and now almost all modules use them or more commonly "compatible" knock-offs from China, some of which are not all that "compatible", resulting in some serious field problems.
Now I understand the logic behind the separate conductors. Thanks.

For single module 12V battery charging the MC connector approach doesn't offer any advantages. By all means convert over to a two conductor cable (or 3 if you use a grounded extension cord).  You could just cut off the MC connectors, solder in butt splices, and heat shrink, but you would probably get an argument if you were ever to make a warranty claim on that module.
I think I would fabricate an adapter cable instead so I would not have to modify the existing wiring. Is there any problem just using the adapter and SAE connectors for those which need to be plugged and unplugged? I like the PowerPole ones also from what I see, but have not seen any up close to see if they are better for my use. I would want something waterproof, but couldn't find the full-cover boots on Amazon. They seem to only be available from Anderson's web site.

Be sure to check the gauge of the extension cord if you go that route. A 15A cord is likely to only be 12 gauge or smaller, which is only going to be good for about 25 feet before you lose too much voltage. You'll want at least a 10 gauge cord.  Cut off both ends of the extension cord and either connect one end permanently (to the module or battery) or use dedicated connectors at both ends. Don't use the 120Vac connectors for 12Vdc so no one can get confused and connect the wrong stiff together. And don't try to use the MC's to make connections on a daily basis, they're not meant for that and also require a tool to disconnect which would be a PITA. Please do use a properly sized fuse at the battery end to protect that cord and the module. A 10AWG cord should be good for 30A but most modules are rated for 15A so a 15A fuse is a good choice.
I would definitely look for a 10 gauge extension if I went that route. As it is, I ordered a 10 gauge extension set that is 20' long. They are the separate cables that I will have to figure out how to tie together. I will still want to add a quick disconnect though for the reason you cite. The best I can tell, the Voyager is rated for 20A, but the panel's maximum Short Circuit Current (Isc) is 6.1A and Maximum Power Current (Imp) is 5.68A according to the specifications.

PWM controllers are fine for a 100 watt 12V module, if you go to one or more 250-350 watt residential/industrial modules those are high voltage so you need an MPPT controller to charge at 12V. Those module are so much cheaper per watt that its worth the extra expense for the MPPT at that point.  
I think it will be quite a while before I go for more modules and would need the MPPT controller then. Thanks for the very detailed reply.
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ouR escaPOD mods
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Post Options Post Options   Quote lostagain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 2020 at 1:39pm
Remember a spark from a 12v battery gets hot enough to melt metal.  So you need to be careful to make sure all your connections are well secured.

Pod People, how are you using your 25' power cord for your 12v dc system?  Did you make up some kind of a pigtail to use at the male/female ends of the power cord that you connect to your 12v system?  Have you calculated the voltage drop for that cable length and size?
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 2020 at 10:16am
As a professional system designer I of course have to follow the electric code and put safety first. But I've found that the rules are there for good reason, I've seen too many things go wrong. Generally when there are electrical fires its because someone took a shortcut or bent a rule, the argument being that a bad outcome wouldn't happen to them. 

Of course for your own use you can do whatever you want, but if you ever sell your trailer I'd suggest that you remove the capability to use that cord on the 12V system. 

The tendency to take shortcuts is especially true for 12 or 24 Vdc systems which folks often seem to think aren't dangerous because there isn't a shock hazard risk. One of the things I often see is lack of proper fuse protection on 12Vdc circuits. That I just don't get, there is the same or higher fire hazard risk from faults and shorts as there is in 120Vac circuits.  


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Post Options Post Options   Quote Pod People Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 2020 at 8:55am
I chose to use the existing 25' power cord because I did not want another extension long and heavy cord to carry.It seemed that if we were not hooked to  shore power, there was no need for that cord and it would be perfect gauge and length for the solar set up.Use what you have and don't take a lot of extra "stuff" was the idea.
As no one except myself or wife will be using or attaching it, I felt there was no issues using 120v cord for 12v application in this case. Granted, for most other, general uses this would not be a good idea.
Vann


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