How to level an Rpod on non-level ground?

Unfortunately, sites that are not level are common. There are different alternatives. Some of them involve wood blocks (bulky and heavy) or plastic blocks that interlock and stack (lighter weight, but still bulky). Another involves a curved, wedge-shaped plastic part with another part that acts as a chock (Andersen leveler). This one is relatively light, and does stow well when not being used. One pulls up onto the wedge, which rocks as the height increases. When one has the correct height, the other piece is placed to block the wedge  which also helps chock the wheel. Chocks on the other side are still important. Yet another choice is the BAL single-axle leveler. This is like a big U-shaped piece of metal that is placed around the tire and then a jack-screw is tightened. This raises part of the leveler and the tire (and trailer) with it. Advantages are that one does not have to guess at blocks or be precise on backing or pulling forward. One stops, places, and raises the low side. Disadvantages are that it is quite heavy and bulky. The screw can be hard to tighten with the supplied wrench, especially as the height increases. Greasing the threads helps, but that can get messy.

As for the tongue, the newer ones come with a flip-foot. Not letting it flip down, but just lowering it onto a block of wood can help for places which need the tongue to be low. Depending on the slope, you may still need blocks to help get the tongue high enough if the slope is toward the front of the trailer.

You will learn what works best for you. I went through a few options, including all of the above. One thing that will help is a 3/4" socket and adapter to fit a battery operated drill-driver. This is used to lower and raise the stabilizers once the trailer is level. It is a lot easier than using the crank handle supplied with the R-Pod.

Normally, we chock the "high" side, and use the BAL on the low side. After finding as level a spot on the site as we can. If the low side is pretty low, we will often put a lego or two down under the low side, so the BAL doesn't need as much cranking..

The important thing to remember is, Chocks first, and chocks last" NEVER be unhooked from the tow vehicle without the Pod being chocked both sides, in front and behind the tires, no matter how up/down hill it looks..

StephenH mentioned the flip jack.. That has turned out to be single year option, the new pods don't have them now.

We found switching to a powered tongue jack gave us several inches more "travel" at the jack.

BTW.. leveling front to back and side to side is normal. In hundreds of campsites, only once or twice has the site been naturally level.

I carry a 2' carpenters level and level left to right then front to back (I use the seams in the floor to confirm my level is properly placed). This year I after leveling with the carpenters level I tried using the bubble level that comes with my iPhone simply placing it on the counter top by the sink in our r-179. It agrees with the carpenters level every time. I haven't got the nerve to leave the carpenters level home yet. By the way the iPhone level can be used against the refrigerator to check for plumb and level as it becomes a stick level when held vertically. 

Never any need to dig. Also impossible on pavement. As soon as you are almost done backing up pull out your level to check side to side, add blocks behind the low wheel and finish backing up. Chock the wheels, unhitch, check for level front to back, adjust tongue jack, done.