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Topic ClosedTexman 182g Mods

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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Texman 182g Mods
    Posted: 06 Feb 2019 at 2:49pm
There aren't any exposed water lines under my pod except the low point drains and the pump suction line.  Nice clean plumbing design.  Sorry if I'm repeating, but I plan to just remove my low point drains, I don't believe they're really needed, it would just take a little more antifreeze to winterize without them, if that. 

Sticking stuff to polyethylene can be problematic, I suggest trying a small area first. Some folks swear by flame treatment to activate the polyethylene surface for adhesives, not sure if it would work for polyurethane. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb 2019 at 2:53pm
offgrid

what do you mean by "remove low point drains"  ?  just cap them off?  cut off and join together for recirculation? 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb 2019 at 3:48pm
I meant, either cap them off above the floor and/or remove the tee drops inside the trailer and then spray some closed cell foam into their holes from underneath so they don't become dead end water filled lines with no circulation that could freeze up. Basically, make them go away. If your trailer is plumbed like mine, that should leave only the pump suction line and (maybe) the fresh water tank to insulate. 

Don't forget to add valves to the outside shower lines (inside the trailer). I plan to just drain those lines back, then shut the valves, I never use the outside shower in the winter anyway. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb 2019 at 3:56pm
no outside shower for me, just the rear kitchen sink.
i don't think i can get to my low point drains from inside.  i need to check. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Feb 2019 at 4:30pm
In the 179 I can see the fittings to them from the inside,  there are two sets. I haven't tried to remove them yet. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2019 at 2:21pm
this is the mixing valve that will go at the rear of the pod (farthest point from water heater and pump)


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb 2019 at 2:25pm
Testing the thermostat with a 9v battery.  it works so far.  i could not get the relay to work yet using 9volt.  I think it must need 12 v to function.  I plan to test all of this before cutting pipe in the pod to install all of this. 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2019 at 8:35am
Worked on two mods Sunday.  The recirculating hot water first.  I installed the valves and did a quick pressure check and that all seemed good.  I opened the manual valve to do further pressure checks but i ran the pump dry, so i will have to prime it i suppose to test further.  I was out of time to add water and do the real tests and is still need to install the rear mixing valve.  The main reverse polarity valve is wired to the red/yellow switch in the panel and tested and works fine so far.  It is really tight where i added the new valves.  Difficult to get clean square cuts in the Pex.  i think i got it in correctly since i saw no leaks with initial pressure check. 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2019 at 8:43am
i added the drok battery meter also. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb 2019 at 8:54am
after i installed the DROK, i disconnected the shore power and attempted to set up the meter.  all seems good except i haven't figured out (been able) to set up the capacity and remaining amp hours.  by that i mean i set them up in the device, but i am not getting them to calculate yet.  But while i was testing this on battery power and working on the other stuff, i watched my voltage drop to 12.2v in less than an hour.  The pic is the reading while hooked up and charging.  So i don't know if i have fried the batteries somehow or not.  they have been plugged in and charged the whole time in storage and i have added distilled water a couple of times.  So i wouldn't think they are fried, but don't know why i would drop to 12.2 v otherwise. thoughts?   only load was a couple of LEDs and the base pod loads of detectors. 
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