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jato View Drop Down
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Joined: 23 Feb 2012
Location: Kewadin, MI
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Posts: 3227 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: 178 Bypass valves
    Posted: 26 Jan 2017 at 7:12pm
I had an individual PM me about accessing the 3 valves under the bed.  What I did my first year back in 2011 was to cut an access hole above the 3 valves.  The opening is 5" x 8", not real large but enough room to reach down and change each of the valves.  I covered the hole with a piece of 1/4" luan that measures 6" x 9" and is held in place by one wood screw so that when I need to get to the valves I only need to 'swing' the cover piece 90 degrees.
God's pod
'11 model 177
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Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
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StephenH View Drop Down
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Joined: 29 Nov 2015
Location: Wake Forest, NC
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Posts: 6291 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jan 2017 at 9:04pm
My opinion on winterizing based on my experience is that compressed air winterizing does not completely empty out all water in the system, even when one works through all faucets and low point drains. I did that, but decided to pump RV antifreeze through the system also. I was surprised at the amount of water that was expelled from the system before the pink antifreeze started flowing from the faucets.

That being said, I only needed one gallon of RV antifreeze since most of the water had been purged previously by the air. I will probably stick with this hybrid winterizing as it seemed to be relatively quick and it has so far been effective.
StephenH
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Bboudens View Drop Down
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Joined: 30 Sep 2016
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Posts: 39 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jan 2017 at 8:07pm
You are right on the money, There is a valve right at the connection with that pig tail hose. I winterized for the first time myself this past Oct. Only took about half an hour and two jugs is plenty. I used a 4ft 2x4 to prop up the wood and mattress. Watch the Moose Pod "pink stuff"vid and the one for de-winterizing. It's well done and really helps.  
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jato View Drop Down
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Posts: 3227 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jan 2017 at 3:21pm
Since 2012 I have only used to compressor method to blow out my lines.  I have timed myself to go thru the process of 1)switching the 3 valves for winterization, 2) open and drain HW tank, 3) hooking up air gun to loose pigtail hose under sink to blow out lines, 4) blow out lines (takes about 1 minute going thru all cold and hot water lines and toilet 2x, 5) add a total of 8 oz. pink antifreeze to 3 traps, 6) re-install drain plug to HW tank.  Took me just under 5 minutes, not too time consuming in my estimation.  The big plus is no nasty antifreeze taste the following year in the cold water supply for your drinking water.  We often have temps that fall well below - 20C during the winter, especially in January.  Never have had any water or line leak issues using this method.
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Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake
"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."
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Podster View Drop Down
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Posts: 1108 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jan 2017 at 1:58pm
Originally posted by Hi-Line

Podster, what are the rods shown in your picture that you use to prop up the plywood and where do you get them? I've winterized my 179 twice now with antifreeze following KyMoose's excellent video instructions...not that hard to do with the video...hardest part is dealing with the mattress and plywood!

 with you specific application and they will recommend the proper set-up. 


Not the easiest mod, but worth it in the long run...


Note: Changing the mattress make change the gas strut requirements...
Cliff & Raelynn
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mcarter View Drop Down
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Joined: 07 Apr 2016
Location: Greenbrier, TN
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Posts: 3419 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jan 2017 at 1:21pm
I cut wood dowels to hold bed and plywood up. I use the compressed air method to winterize, works fine in TN. Yes it does take awhile. The kymooses videos on YouTube are excellent. One for air and one for antifreeze. I have a 178 and don't change my valves, limits amount of time lifting 10" mattress and plywood.
Mike Carter
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Hi-Line View Drop Down
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Posts: 24 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jan 2017 at 11:51am
Podster, what are the rods shown in your picture that you use to prop up the plywood and where do you get them? I've winterized my 179 twice now with antifreeze following KyMoose's excellent video instructions...not that hard to do with the video...hardest part is dealing with the mattress and plywood!
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Posts: 1108 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jan 2017 at 9:55am
I did find the loose pigtail hose the would be used to upload antifreeze, so the fact that that hose is indeed under the bed implies to me that both the pump and bypass hoses are located in that one spot under the bed.

Is that correct? Yes, sounds like FR may have relocated the pump on your model. 
Cliff & Raelynn
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(1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity)
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JET View Drop Down
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Joined: 13 Jan 2017
Location: Ashland, Oregon
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Posts: 72 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jan 2017 at 9:51am
Originally posted by Podster

1) Where exactly is the bypass pump and bypass valves on my 2017 178? Pump is behind the service panel below the sink. Valves are under the bed.
2) What is the purpose of the "in between" bypass valve on the hose between the hot and cold inlet bypass valve? When closed, prevents hot and cold water from mixing when the other two valves are open. When open allows water to flow while the others are closed to prevent flow into the water heater.
3)What is the purpose of the bypass pump, if any, other then to be able to pump antifreeze thru the system for winterization? Not really a pump, but an uptake valve. It allows RV anti-freeze to be sucked up into the plumbing system by inserting the pigtail hose connected to the same valve into the anti-freeze jug, opening the valve and turning on the water pump. 

Here is a great video by my main man Travis "aka...MoosePOD" on how all of this works...


I just ran out to my 2017 model 178 to verify where my pump and bypass valves are located. I looked close under the sink and can't seem to see anything that looks like a service panel or pump (including removing the panel under the cabinet door directly under the sink). 

I then lifted the mattress and plywood seeing what I think is probably both the pump and bypass valves. Trying to inspect this area close while holding the mattress and plywood by hand made in difficult to know 100% that both are in fact located under the bed (I am going to recheck when I can do so with help). 

I did find the loose pigtail hose the would be used to upload antifreeze, so the fact that that hose is indeed under the bed implies to me that both the pump and bypass hoses are located in that one spot under the bed.

Is that correct? 

Can someone else with a 2017 model 178 verify that?
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Bama Pod View Drop Down
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Joined: 04 Oct 2016
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Posts: 89 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jan 2017 at 9:14am
Oh, that's a NICE bed setup.  Too bad they don't build them that way.
And I agree that the blowout method may not be an option for some owners.
And I agree it is more time consuming (mostly just standing around).
And the pink stuff does work well (we dropped to 5 a few weeks ago and no freeze issues).
But not having to practically take the bed completely apart to bypass/syphon is just easier (for me).
It's a matter of preference I suppose.
I recommend trying both (if have that option) and then decide.
The first time is a little scary (did I do everything right?).
But once done you'll realize it's really not that hard.
Moose-pod has an EXCELLENT video on YouTube.
Watch it 4 or 5 times, then do it, and you'll be an expert.
Bama Pod
Huntsville, AL

2017 Ford F250
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