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"CarFax" for Trailers?

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vmh View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote vmh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: "CarFax" for Trailers?
    Posted: 12 Nov 2022 at 5:39pm
Thanks jato, that is good information.

JR, we are new to this and very paranoid about not turning on the water heater until ensuring that the tank is full. But good warning.

StephenH, I guess what threw us is the anode is basically gone in some places, down to almost a wire thickness. Of course the state of the anode is not the only issue with this R-Pod that has caused us concern.

Thanks everyone
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2022 at 7:43pm
It could be that someone did not have the valves in the right position and pumped some RV antifreeze through and into the water heater. I understand that will chew up an anode rod quickly. I've not tried it so I am going by hearsay.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2022 at 3:53am
Propylene glycol (the active ingredient in RV antifreeze) should not be electrochemically active so in itself shouldn't cause anode corrosion. The water it's mixed with of course is active and can cause anode corrosion, depending on what impurities are in it or were already in the tank when it was filled with the antifreeze. Anyhow, it's unnecessary and a waste of money to fill the tank with antifreeze so don't, if the tank is dry it won't get frost damage and the anode should look the same in the spring as it did when you pulled it out to winterize.

I do agree with the guidance not to judge trailer age by anode rod condition. The point of the magnesium or zinc in the rod is to  be highly reactive so it gets sacrificed before the steel in the tank. So the anode material can disappear really quickly under the right conditions. 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2022 at 1:54pm
However, propylene glycol is not the only ingredient in RV antifreeze. Some brands also contain other ingredients. For example, the SuperTech RV antifreeze from Walmart contains:
Water, Ethyl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol, Dye, and Dipotassium Phosphate. I'm not sure how reactive the other ingredients may be.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2022 at 4:25pm
You might be on to something with the dipotassium phosphate (DKP). The other ingredients you mention should be pretty inert, but DKP is a salt so will dissolve  into its ionic components in aqueous solution. My first though was that could increase conductivity and possibly  accelerate corrosion. 
So I looked up what it's purpose was in antifreeze.  I found a lot of discussion about it's use in auto coolant  but not much  about RV antifreeze. It's commonly used in auto antifreeze as a source of phophates which coat the internal metal engine parts to inhibit corrosion. Its also a buffering agent reducing acidity which would also reduce metal corrosion. I found one  RV antifreeze product that said it's purpose was to "prevent rust and corrosion", so probably it's safe to assume that its there for the same reason as for car engines. 

But apparently if you mix auto antifreeze using it with  hard water the phophates will combine with the magnesium or calcium that's making the water hard and produce deposits which can clog the engine passages. So most European car manufacturers ban it's use in auto antifreeze because there is a history of problems with hard water there.

 All that leads me to think that while maybe it normally does inhibit corrosion in your plumbing system but it's reacting with the magnesium anode if you fill your water heater with it. 

Anyhow, bottom line is, save your money, use the bypass, and don't fill your water heater with antifreeze. Problem solved....
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Post Options Post Options   Quote jato Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2022 at 4:45pm
[QUOTE=offgrid
Anyhow, bottom line is, save your money, use the bypass, and don't fill your water heater with antifreeze. Problem solved...
QUOTE]

Could never figure why someone would go thru the expense of adding 5 gallons antifreeze to a HW tank that is so easy to drain in the first place.  If you have a compressor that is the quick and easy way to go.  As stated before, it takes me less than two minutes to go through all the lines 2x on a 177 and then only 16 oz. rv antifreeze is used for the traps and toilet.  Last gallon of rv antifreeze cost $ 1.49 and will last 8 years.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2022 at 8:18pm
I agree 100% with bypassing the water heater and draining it by removing the anode rod. That has the advantage of allowing one to flush the tank to get rid of the residue that flakes off the anode rod. I have a spray wand for this purpose that sticks through the opening and allows one to move it around to help flush out the tank. It is used for that purpose only.
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